Not enough spl, thinking of moving from w6's to w7's.

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

And your proof is................................................... still waiting.............................................................................. well................................................... nothing yet?......................

Compare specs, its pretty obvious. I'll give you a hint, one sub has more linear xmax AND power handling than the other... care to guess which one? Maybe you care to suggest how the W6 overcomes such short comings to surpass the W7 in output capability?
Or maybe the story just above, from an owner of both subs, who confirms what the specs suggest.

Lastly, call JL Audio tomorrow and ask them which subwoofer is geared towards more output, the W6 or W7. Everyone here, except you, already knows the answer.

Im actually shocked Im having to participate in a debate on whether or not the W6 is JL's "SPL sub". lol?

 

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

Electrical “Q” (Qes): 0.514

Mechanical “Q” (Qms): 7.807...................................For 12w7

Total Speaker “Q” (Qts): 0.482

Free Air Resonance (Fs): 27.2 Hz

Electrical “Q” (Qes): 0.480

Mechanical “Q” (Qms): 7.100...................................For 12w6

Total Speaker “Q” (Qts): 0.450

Free Air Resonance (Fs): 25.0 Hz

Technically the w6 wins in sq. My freind (Blinkdog) works somewhere that sells JL. He also thinks the w6 sound better. Although I have not heard a w7 I think that they are probably too close to each other to really hear a difference.

If you want more spl I think switching to the w7 sounds like a good idea, that is if you will have enough power for them

 

[Abel 10+ year member]

Since when do the companys specs mean anything ? Esp on ca.com. I dont care what the owners manual says, continue to bash me as you please it dont matter to me. So if the W7 is truelly an spl sub then why do soooooo many SQL people use them? why not use the W6? But i guess since you have nearly 10k posts your right.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

No i havnt used JL since prob 1998. Have you tested there power cap.?? Have you done any work with JL subs? I was giving the OP my opinion and nothing more. Its pretty obvious i dont ride on the JL train just look at my sig.

Yes, I was one of the first people in the world to install W7s when they debuted, I also have used and tested 12W7s myself.

I shattered the cone at just about 2500W.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

wtf has anyone in here ever used either one of these subs, ive never seen so many retarded answers in one thread.its hard to say if it would be louder but i loved my w7

Yes, I was one of the first people in the world to install these when they first debuted.

And I have used and tested 12W7s and shattered a cone at just about 2500W.

 

[joeyrocks 10+ year member]

go recone a w7.....................

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...ok

paycheck to paycheck lol

atleast there isnt 10+ family members living with me in a brownstone b1tch........

LOL who the **** are you? u got it all wrong so at least I know u aint a stalker

 

[edzy 10+ year member]

I would suggest keeping the 13W6's and getting more power. I have those subs and run a AQ 2200D on em. Sound great and get loud as hell for a SQ set up.

140.2 on TL dash sealed...In a full size van

btw, that pelakin guy, What specs did you use for that box you just built for those 2 13w6's if you dont mind.

 

[silenkiller 10+ year member]

LOL this thread has gotten interesting

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Since when do the companys specs mean anything ? Esp on ca.com. I dont care what the owners manual says, continue to bash me as you please it dont matter to me. So if the W7 is truelly an spl sub then why do soooooo many SQL people use them? why not use the W6? But i guess since you have nearly 10k posts your right.

You are right, specs mean nothing, something some 'JL guy' told you years ago, means so much more, right? Are you telling me you dont believe in specs? lol Your ignorance of them is no excuse to continue to ignore them. Learn.
I never said the W7 was an SPL sub, read closer. I in fact said JL Audio does not make a true SPL sub. if you want to categorize their subs, the W6 is a SQ driver while the W7 is an SQL driver. The only SPL comments being interjected into this conversation are by you, trying to convince us the W6 is an SPL driver.

I dont know what an "SQL person" is, but I do know you see many more installs with W7's when the intention is to get loud, than you do W6's.

Like I said, you dont have to believe a word I said, you can call JL Audio for yourself tomorrow and see that Im right.

Ciao.

 

[endofdays89 5,000+ posts]

would anybody hear rather have a type r than a SE for SPL? Just curious to see what you guys think. I can give my Type r 1000 rms daily no problems, how much could you give an SE daily?

I mean, you can get type r's for 90 shipped almost anywhere now days? Better price than the SE too.

edit: O crap, wrong thread

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

 

[silenkiller 10+ year member]

profit

 

[pawn man 10+ year member]

cotjones:
"1 jl watt is 2 regualr watts"

that's a joke. jl is not known for power .

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

i've used JL's an many other brand subs from entry level, mid range, to high end subs.......

90% of the sound quality comes from the build quality of the box with appropriate specs and the install. When i say the install, i mean all sorts of variables like box positioning, proper amp tuning, reducing unwanted vibrations, etc..... Yes it helps to have certain types of subs for that other 10%, but the best SQ subs will sound like crap in a shitty install.

i've said it before and i'll say it again. i've heard some D-bag friend of a friend's 2 JL 13w6v2's sealed in a small hatchback off a 1000/1 and yes it got loud and sounded nice........

.......But my "spl oriented" Fi BTL 15 off my kx 2500.1 in a solid *** built to specs ported box with everything else done right in the install to the best of my ability NOT ONLY sounds just as clean, but its hella louder in my trunk car.....

ditch the JL's and get something thats best quality and cheaper. If the install is done right you'll never look back. If you dont have the cash to invest in the amps, sub, and electrical i would go with an HDC3 15 with 2kw and a few electrical upgrades. that will be the best bang for the buck.