Noob Questions, Kicker L7 15" Subwoofer + Amp and more

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='LongThrow']D

And @Jeffdachef, about what you said about Hifonics, look here
Hifonics are now CEA 2006 Compliant.[/QUOTE]

It doesnt matter, I had two brx 2400s on my 18s which are CEA compliant hifonics and compared it with a DC audio 3.5 which is not CEA compliant and my DC audio amp completely mopped the floor with those amps. CEA tests mean jack sh*t since it only tests power at 4 ohms. Not 2 ohms or 1 ohm, just 4 ohms, They also dont even test for efficiency or damping factor either. Amp can be utter junk with 1 ohm performance with a CEA stick slapped on it and people will buy it unknowingly. Its better to look at dyno tests along clamp tests with oscilloscope or actually hear amps perform real life rather than buying something labeled CEA. Only time that would moderately work is with noobs buying 4 channel amps. Even then, its not guaranteed the amp's sound would be good, it might be loud but SQ might be bad.

Not all hifonics are built the same. The zues and HFI lines are amongst their worst of the their worst vs their brutus lines which are acceptable budget amps. Buddy on facebook clamped a zues 3000 and got 1400 dirty watts out if it at 14.4 volts wired to .5 ohms rising to 1.2

 

[Massive spl]

I say put a real 1500watt amp to that kicker l7 and it will wake up along with a nice ported box of its not already... That poopy hifonics 1000watt amp u have now is prly sending 200real watts to it.

 

[LongThrow]

It doesnt matter, I had two brx 2400s on my 18s which are CEA compliant hifonics and compared it with a DC audio 3.5 which is not CEA compliant and my DC audio amp completely mopped the floor with those amps. CEA tests mean jack sh*t since it only tests power at 4 ohms. Not 2 ohms or 1 ohm, just 4 ohms, They also dont even test for efficiency or damping factor either. Amp can be utter junk with 1 ohm performance with a CEA stick slapped on it and people will buy it unknowingly. Its better to look at dyno tests along clamp tests with oscilloscope or actually hear amps perform real life rather than buying something labeled CEA. Only time that would moderately work is with noobs buying 4 channel amps. Even then, its not guaranteed the amp's sound would be good, it might be loud but SQ might be bad.
Not all hifonics are built the same. The zues and HFI lines are amongst their worst of the their worst vs their brutus lines which are acceptable budget amps. Buddy on facebook clamped a zues 3000 and got 1400 dirty watts out if it at 14.4 volts wired to .5 ohms rising to 1.2

Ah, opens my eyes a bit.

So, there are some brands out there that aren't cea compliant, but still push the clean, rated wattage? If that's the case, why WOULDN'T they be if they are solid amps?

 

[Maky]

[quote name='LongThrow']
And @Jeffdachef, about what you said about Hifonics, look here
Hifonics are now CEA 2006 Compliant.[/QUOTE]
So is my JBL monoblock but I know it starts distorting much earlier than what it does at rated. CEA 2006 doesn't mean much I don't think.

[quote name='nmerci']I don't think even she knows what she wants. She just has a lot of money and nothing to spend it on. She probably wants it to be louder and sound better. Right now my subs sound crisp, but hers is a lot of distortion



As far as I know, that's all her equipment.

Everything else is just stock 1999 blazer stuff.[/QUOTE]
Alright. I'm not nearly as knowledgable as most people here but I would advise you to go ported with that L7. A 'proper' ported box. CSCStang could help you with the box or perhaps help guide you with a design for your L7 and you could have it built locally. He's very good and you/sister would notice a massive improvement in bass without spending any extra money on a new subwoofer if you go with a well built box for your current one.

As it sounds you have a stock(****) system I would take that 1,000$ and put it to upgrade your midwoofer, which also adds bass, tweeter and amplify the same. This would improve your overall sound. Going by your description it sounds like your bass is probably already drowning out your mids and highs.

 

[LongThrow]

So is my JBL monoblock but I know it starts distorting much earlier than what it does at rated. CEA 2006 doesn't mean much I don't think.

Alright. I'm not nearly as knowledgable as most people here but I would advise you to go ported with that L7. A 'proper' ported box. CSCStang could help you with the box or perhaps help guide you with a design for your L7 and you could have it built locally. He's very good and you/sister would notice a massive improvement in bass without spending any extra money on a new subwoofer if you go with a well built box for your current one.

As it sounds you have a stock(****) system I would take that 1,000$ and put it to upgrade your midwoofer, which also adds bass, tweeter and amplify the same. This would improve your overall sound. Going by your description it sounds like your bass is probably already drowning out your mids and highs.

Stock headunit on speakers on a 1999 blazer with a l7 in a prefab with a low-wattage amp. Bet that sounds like that heaven on the ears //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ah, opens my eyes a bit.
So, there are some brands out there that aren't cea compliant, but still push the clean, rated wattage? If that's the case, why WOULDN'T they be if they are solid amps?

They dont need it, they rather put that money into actual quality heat sinks and components and board. Its just a badge for noobs and average joes basically. When you've been in the competition game long enough, you'll see what wins trophies and what doesn't. What clamps high clean, what sounds clean, whats good whats mediocre. You need to hit up some local competitions and you'll see a whole new world out there.

 

[nmerci]

First of all, thank you all so much for taking the time to post. I went out and found out as much information as I could about the Car and current setup.

Head Unit: JVC KD-A605

http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/01/15/GET0580-001A.pdf

Subwoofer: Kicker 15" Solo-Baric 2 Ohm L7 in some type of box. Box measures 21" length x 17" width x 16" height

KICKER | Solo-Baric L7 15" 2Ω

Amplifier: Hifonics HFI 1000.1D

Hifonics HFi1000.1D (HFi 1000D) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier

Car Speakers:

Front Left and Rear Right are 6 3/4" stock speakers (wasn't able to find more about those) (8 ohm)

Front Right and Rear Left are 6 1/2" Kenwood KFC-1665S speakers (4 ohm)

Kenwood KFC-1665S Sport Series 6-1/2" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield.com

The Chevy 1999 has a stock 100 amp alternator and 525 amp battery with run down protection

I've attached some pictures of everything.

She told me she is willing to spend $1000, and that the vehicle is already plenty loud, but it sounds like crap in terms of actual sound quality, compared to my 2 12"s and her friend's 2 10"s. Lots of distortion, lyrics aren't very clear, etc.

She wants more of the crisp bass and probably better speakers I'm assuming.

Thanks a ton for all your continuing help everyone!

Head Unit

Subwoofer sitting in vehicle

Subwoofer Length

Subwoofer Height

Subwoofer Width

Right Rear Door

Right Front Door

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

CEA has turned into a joke.

It's for brands that have one amp that passes that easy test.

Good amps don't need a sticker to prove anything

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

is it just me or does the box the op posted pictures of look really damn small

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If it's a kicker box is half of what it needs to be

 

[nmerci]

so it sounds like a good place to start would to get a custom box, no?

Any idea how much the CSStang Customs guy usually charges? And how difficult is it to remove the subwoofer from the current box and put it in the new one?

I've looked at his facebook page and have his number, but don't want to waste his time until I know more about it and if that's the next step to take.

And what is the difference between "@35hz" or "@32hz" or any of the others?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

so it sounds like a good place to start would to get a custom box, no?
Any idea how much the CSStang Customs guy usually charges? And how difficult is it to remove the subwoofer from the current box and put it in the new one?

I've looked at his facebook page and have his number, but don't want to waste his time until I know more about it and if that's the next step to take.

And what is the difference between "@35hz" or "@32hz" or any of the others?

i would say so, the hifonics amp isnt doing you any favors either, nor is the electrical system of that vehicle.

the first 3 points in your original post were dead on - good advice. fourth one not so much, that 15 looks to be in a tiny box. a custom box makes all the difference, taking out the old sub and putting the new one is easy. take the screws out, pull the sub and disconnect wires remembering how they were wired previously, drop sub in new box and wire the same way.

consider upgrading the battery to a nice quality AGM($100-150), doing the big three($50), getting a true 1000w rms amp($200-300), custom box for the sub($200-300), and please for the love of music upgrade and amp the door speakers ($300 depending on speakers)

this is pricing without labor btw

 

[MrFoca]

Stang can help you out. Very decent prices also.

 

[nmerci]

i would say so, the hifonics amp isnt doing you any favors either, nor is the electrical system of that vehicle.
the first 3 points in your original post were dead on - good advice. fourth one not so much, that 15 looks to be in a tiny box. a custom box makes all the difference, taking out the old sub and putting the new one is easy. take the screws out, pull the sub and disconnect wires remembering how they were wired previously, drop sub in new box and wire the same way.

consider upgrading the battery to a nice quality AGM, doing the big three, getting a true 1000w rms amp, custom box for the sub, and please for the love of music upgrade and amp the door speakers

Cool, I'm glad to be making some progress in terms of learning what is needed.

Are there certain types of amp that would be best? What would you recommend?

This is the one that I have with my 12"s, and some guy has it listed on Craigslist for $150 that we could go pick up:

Amazon.com: Kenwood Kac-9105D 1800-Watt Class D Mono Amplifier: Car Electronics

And what will upgrading the battery do? Also what door speakers would you recommend?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

there's a huge variation in the products you'll get recommended, so you'll need to narrow it down. I've heard good things about the polk 6.5's, whether its the db6501, mm6501, or dxi6501. morel maximo 6.5's are nice, so are CDT, silverflute, and seas.

the amp for your doors i would buy is a ppi900.4, less than $200 on amazon.

try to find a used 1k sundown, crescendo, jl, etc quality amp online. it'll be a lot cheaper than new and will give you plenty of power. that kenwood is ok, considering it's only 50 off the new price id pass.

the reason for the battery is because it takes power to make power, with these amps running full tilt you could be pulling over 150-200 amps of current. i had a single battery on a 1k amp for years, added a second battery and there was an audible difference in output. capacitance is important.