New to car audio, need help
- Thread starter kyle1234567890
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ill give you a few pointers to buying everything you need.
Headunits:
1)dont go by the peak power of the amp, like you said 50x4, probably more like 20x4 continous power (RMS)
2)preamp outputs, eventually you will probably want three so if you plan on expanding one day dont make the mistake of buying a headunit with less than that. also each headunit has a rating for preamp output voltage, higher the better, most decent headunits put out about 4V.
Amplifiers:
1) same thing with amplifiers that i told you about headunits, dont go by peak power. that sony amp says 1000W on the cover but really only puts out less than 500W RMS, maybe less than 300 depending on the model.
2) 3 basic types of amps: mono, 2-channel, and 4-channel. Its pretty simple really, if you are powering a sub you want a mono amp or you can bridge a 2 channel amp if it is cheaper. 4 channel amps are no good for subs.
Subwoofers:
1) RMS, not peak.
2) sensitivity (measured in db's), higher is better.
3) basically, just ask around, people will tell you what sounds good and what doesnt, you dont have to pay $500 for a good sub. some inexpensive subs will surprise you.
4) box: Q-logic is your best bet to start off with. 3 main types: sealed, ported, and bandpass. Sealed boxes are small and simple. Ported boxes are a little bigger and have bigger sound, not necessarily better sound though. Bandpass boxes are a waste most of the time for loud music, a lot of people like them because they look nice but dont be fooled.
There is so much more to learn and you will pick it up fast, go to crutchfield.com and that will give you a good start. Dont feel like you have to buy it all at once, save up for the stuff you really want, itll turn out better. Anything else you want to know just ask.
Headunits:
1)dont go by the peak power of the amp, like you said 50x4, probably more like 20x4 continous power (RMS)
2)preamp outputs, eventually you will probably want three so if you plan on expanding one day dont make the mistake of buying a headunit with less than that. also each headunit has a rating for preamp output voltage, higher the better, most decent headunits put out about 4V.
Amplifiers:
1) same thing with amplifiers that i told you about headunits, dont go by peak power. that sony amp says 1000W on the cover but really only puts out less than 500W RMS, maybe less than 300 depending on the model.
2) 3 basic types of amps: mono, 2-channel, and 4-channel. Its pretty simple really, if you are powering a sub you want a mono amp or you can bridge a 2 channel amp if it is cheaper. 4 channel amps are no good for subs.
Subwoofers:
1) RMS, not peak.
2) sensitivity (measured in db's), higher is better.
3) basically, just ask around, people will tell you what sounds good and what doesnt, you dont have to pay $500 for a good sub. some inexpensive subs will surprise you.
4) box: Q-logic is your best bet to start off with. 3 main types: sealed, ported, and bandpass. Sealed boxes are small and simple. Ported boxes are a little bigger and have bigger sound, not necessarily better sound though. Bandpass boxes are a waste most of the time for loud music, a lot of people like them because they look nice but dont be fooled.
There is so much more to learn and you will pick it up fast, go to crutchfield.com and that will give you a good start. Dont feel like you have to buy it all at once, save up for the stuff you really want, itll turn out better. Anything else you want to know just ask.
- Thread Starter
- #3
Ok ill look around using that as a guide, thanks alot that really helped ill be sure to come back here if I need any help at all.
I'm not one to trash a brand but I really suggest staying away from Sony car audio and Kenwood unless you really know what you're doing.
helotaxi
5,000+ posts
Kilroy was Here
However, not all headunits with 3 outputs have 3 really useful outputs. Example: Most sub outputs only have 2-3 selectable crossover frequencies. If the freq you need is not on of those available, you really gain nothing from the output except maybe a sub level control (which can be done other ways as well).
4 channel amps can be great for powering a whole system if the goal is sound quality rather than quantity. You really don't need more than 200-300 watts on the sub if you get an efficient sub and aren't looking for tons of output. For a simple system a 4-channel amp is also easier to wire and takes up less space.
This spec is usually measured at 1000hz (well out of the frequency range of a sub) and is pretty useless for determining the relative loudness of a sub at sub-bass frequencies. X-max is a bit more telling of low frequency output potential. So much of a sub's output potential is determined by the enclosure that specs don't tell the whole story.
What are your goals for your system? Do you want it to sound really good or do you want it to get really loud? Maybe you want something inbetween? How much do you want to spend? Answering these questions will assist us in giving you better guidance.
If you buy from online, buy from Crutchfield.com. Products average price, but its idiot proof, i'm not inferring that youre an idiot. what i mean is if you buy a head unit, they give you the wiring harness for your car, which is what connects the radio you buy to the wiring of your car. I'm a huge fan of Alpine. they do their own thing and they are good at it. If you buy an amp from them, they tell you EXACTLY what you need to buy to wire it up. And the same goes for everything else you buy from them. Plus, their customer service is extremely helpful. When i was a noob they stayed on the phone with me through my head unit install ( 1hr.) , my best friends cant even stand me for 30 min, and the great thing is its free! Good luck, and please stay away from sony, you'll thank yourself later.
Buy the way, advise everything worm said...
Buy the way, advise everything worm said...
its kind of tough to explain everything at once, i think that crutchfield definately explains everything the best and puts it in its simplest form. you guys are right about sony and kenwood also, no good if not done right, especially sony.
My recommendations for a beginner set up wood be:
1) Alpine head unit with 3 4V outputs
2) 1 or 2 12" subs, if price matters go with something like an entry level rockford, if not maybe a JL W3. that was my first sub.
3) true 250w mono amp. save up for something decent, dont settle or you will regret it. plus most decent amps have pretty good resale value once all your friends decide they want to get a system too because they like yours so much.
My recommendations for a beginner set up wood be:
1) Alpine head unit with 3 4V outputs
2) 1 or 2 12" subs, if price matters go with something like an entry level rockford, if not maybe a JL W3. that was my first sub.
3) true 250w mono amp. save up for something decent, dont settle or you will regret it. plus most decent amps have pretty good resale value once all your friends decide they want to get a system too because they like yours so much.
- Thread Starter
- #8
I plan on getting a system that is more towards power and bass output than quality but something in the middle would probably be best. Also, when I first get my system, I plan on having it hooked up to a car battery in my room becuase im only 17 and havent got my car yet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Any pointers on how to do that because ive never hooked up a car stereo before so most of this is new to me. Thanks
00gmcz71
Junior Member
I'd agree with Crutchfield. They give you what you need in harnesses and directions and at no extra cost. Depending on your budget Sony and Kenwood aren't that bad, probably better than most stock head units. I had a Sony HU that played MiniDiscs and it worked fine. I've since moved on to an Alpine HU that plays MP3's. The last Kenwood I had did a decent job too before it was stolen. My advice: don't just buy something because it looks cool and lights up in strange ways. Do your homework, you'll be happier that way.
I'd advise not keeping a car battery in your room, most of them tend to release invisible gasses and can leak acid. You must be anxious to get it going but I'd wait until you get the car then just install it there. If you burn down the house it's a lot worse than burning up a car. Electrical fires are very dangerous.
Good thing is you've started in the right place and direction. Keep asking questions on these message boards. No question is too stupid. Once you get the car tell us what you have, chances are there's someone here that either has one or has had one and can give you specific ideas.
I'd advise not keeping a car battery in your room, most of them tend to release invisible gasses and can leak acid. You must be anxious to get it going but I'd wait until you get the car then just install it there. If you burn down the house it's a lot worse than burning up a car. Electrical fires are very dangerous.
Good thing is you've started in the right place and direction. Keep asking questions on these message boards. No question is too stupid. Once you get the car tell us what you have, chances are there's someone here that either has one or has had one and can give you specific ideas.
Not to mention that you wouldn't be able to use it very long, as there's no charging for the battery.
Depending on your car, you might want to learn the car first. what i mean is when i had my truck, i knew how to take out the seats, dash, carpet, door panels and etc. before i got a system. however, i dont recommend that alternative with a new car. unless crutchfield tells you to do so... its a beginners car audio bible.
hey if you are interested i am selling my car with a bunch of stuff already installed. its a 98' Maxima, all done up and s*** for show. i took the sub and amp out but it still has a complete system with components, amp, and everything. plus its already wired for a sub so all you have to do is hook up an amp and your set.
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- Thread Starter
- #13
Ya, I didnt really think about the acids and gases that would come from the battery so, Is there any kind of power inverter that I could get because I dont have that great of a system in my room and I want something nice at least for a year or two.
Also, I am wondering about ohms because I dont really understand about how different ways of hooking up the subs change the ohms and how there are more watts for less ohms or something like that
Also, I am wondering about ohms because I dont really understand about how different ways of hooking up the subs change the ohms and how there are more watts for less ohms or something like that
first choose your sub and then you can decide the wiring. there are all different kinds of ways to wire a sub(s), and there are different kinds of subs.
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