New to car audio, input greatly appreciated

[youdoofus]

Just in case you haven’t read the commentary on Sound Deadener Showdown (sure you have as you’ve been around for a while), they have some great information about sound deadening practices and products that I have used in my vehicles. I acquired samples of their deadener, Second Skins products, Fatmat, and a few other popular ones and ran some tests with them applied to identical metal pieces. The Second Skin and Sound Deadener Showdown seemed to work the best, but all were effective at what they were designed to do. I only applied enough of each product to each identically sized piece of metal to make up 25% coverage. I believe based on my testing and as SDS described that adding any more than 40% coverage has greatly reduced deminishing returns.
I’m sure the OP or someone else here will find this site helpful. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

yeah, the only build i had any deadener in was my old Infiniti i30t that had diamond audio hex 6.5 comps and it sounded incredible. The accord ive been driving for the last several years is finally getting the treatment very soon and i am planning on putting some fatmat or whatever i can afford on the sheetmetal behind the driver to reduce resonance.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

yeah, the only build i had any deadener in was my old Infiniti i30t that had diamond audio hex 6.5 comps and it sounded incredible. The accord ive been driving for the last several years is finally getting the treatment very soon and i am planning on putting some fatmat or whatever i can afford on the sheetmetal behind the driver to reduce resonance.

Soundskins.

Noico 80mil

Knuknoise 100mil.

 

[Jcsaudio]

That Noico 80mil looks interesting. Might have to try a sample of that. It doesn’t say how thick the constraight layer is though, which is what makes the biggest difference in effectiveness.

For you guys who are looking for something that is light weight and just as effective, the Parts Express Sonic Barrier lightweight vinyl https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-lightweight-vinyl-sound-damping-sheet-27-x-40--268-035 works awesome. I tried this product on my truck doors and compared it to the Second Skin and SDS products I used in my other two cars. It is just as effective at reducing vibrations as those products, yet it is much lighter in weight by comparison.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

That Noico 80mil looks interesting. Might have to try a sample of that. It doesn’t say how thick the constraight layer is though, which is what makes the biggest difference in effectiveness.
For you guys who are looking for something that is light weight and just as effective, the Parts Express Sonic Barrier lightweight vinyl https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-lightweight-vinyl-sound-damping-sheet-27-x-40--268-035 works awesome. I tried this product on my truck doors and compared it to the Second Skin and SDS products I used in my other two cars. It is just as effective at reducing vibrations as those products, yet it is much lighter in weight by comparison.

Noico stuff is really nice. Using it now. I have used most others and the noico is up there. And for the price it makes it great.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jcsaudio]

How thick is the aluminum constraight layer? That is what makes the difference in its effectiveness when used with 25-40% coverage. I read 1 review on Amazon where the person was cutting through the aluminum layer with the edge of the roller, that isn’t a good sign to me.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

How thick is the aluminum constraight layer? That is what makes the difference in its effectiveness when used with 25-40% coverage. I read 1 review on Amazon where the person was cutting through the aluminum layer with the edge of the roller, that isn’t a good sign to me.

Why does the aluminum matter? Some don’t even have aluminum. What I see matter is the weight of the contact layer.

 

[Jcsaudio]

Why does the aluminum matter? Some don’t even have aluminum. What I see matter is the weight of the contact layer.

It depends on how you accomplish reducing the vibrations in the resonating panels you have in your car. When you have a thick aluminum constraight layer with a viceolastic layer of butyl rubber between the metal panel and constraight layer, it reduces vibrations by dissipating them between the panel and that aluminum layer and coverts that movement into low levels of heat. It does this by the shear between the metal panel, through the butyl, and aluminum layer. This is the most efficient way and requires the least amount of material and thus added weight to accomplish that task. Also the thicker that aluminum constraight layer is (to a point) the more effective it is. Another way is to add mass to the panel by loading it up with a thick and heavy (sometimes asphalt based) material, thereby lowering its resonance where the human ear is less sensitive so that it appears to be quieter. This is how automotive manufacturers sometimes do it and you can see this when you lift your carpet in your car in specific spots. Either method works, but one requires more material, and thus added weight to the car, thereby reducing the performance and driving characteristics of the car depending on how much you add.

If you read the blogs on Sound Deadener Showdown or I think even Second Skin, you will find commentary on these very principles. SDS blog is especially educational and an eye opener at that. When I did my comparison testing on my samples of metal, I could hear the difference between the samples and their effectiveness. SDS and Second Skin where the two out of the 4-5 (can’t remenber now) that seemed to be the most effective.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

It depends on how you accomplish reducing the vibrations in the resonating panels you have in your car. When you have a thick aluminum constraight layer with a viceolastic layer of butyl rubber between the metal panel and constraight layer, it reduces vibrations by dissipating them between the panel and that aluminum layer and coverts that movement into low levels of heat. It does this by the shear between the metal panel, through the butyl, and aluminum layer. This is the most efficient way and requires the least amount of material and thus added weight to accomplish that task. Also the thicker that aluminum constraight layer is (to a point) the more effective it is. Another way is to add mass to the panel by loading it up with a thick and heavy (sometimes asphalt based) material, thereby lowering its resonance where the human ear is less sensitive so that it appears to be quieter. This is how automotive manufacturers sometimes do it and you can see this when you lift your carpet in your car in specific spots. Either method works, but one requires more material, and thus added weight to the car, thereby reducing the performance and driving characteristics of the car depending on how much you add.
If you read the blogs on Sound Deadener Showdown or I think even Second Skin, you will find commentary on these very principles. SDS blog is especially educational and an eye opener at that.

It’s long but worth it.

Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

 

[youdoofus]

Soundskins. Noico 80mil

Knuknoise 100mil.

i might get some noico for s's and g's

 

[Jcsaudio]

It’s long but worth it. Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Went through most of that very long thread as you said. Very good information and good to know that SDS was on top, all things considered. I guess I won’t be purchasing Second Skin anymore though, and I was surprised to see Dynomat Extreme actually did well, especially in the weight to performance ratio. Very good information and thank you for sharing it.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

That Noico 80mil looks interesting.

I broke a door on my Jeep and bought some of the Noico on Amazon to deaden the new door. No complaints especially for the price. I've got a pile left that I'll probably use in my brother's Civic when we re-do the doors in the next couple weeks.

 

[moparnut]

I've used the Noico 80 in a few cars and was very happy with it. I have my trunk lined with it and it is dead. I have also used some from a company called siless, also 80 mil. I found it on Amazon. I have my doors done with this and it works very well. I would recommend either one. I will say, when you do decide to get the deadner, make sure you pick up a roller for the install.

 

[bigblank69 10+ year member]

I find the Dayton Reference HO to be really tight for bass, and can be used in a TINY sealed box... about 700-800W is all they need.

 

[Gump_Runner]

You've equated affordable with low quality, at your misfortune. I'll venture a guess that you've never heard actually heard them.
Fun fact about SB Acoustics - They are affordable but they are very high quality. Half a dozen engineers from ScanSpeak design those drivers and they intentionally went for a lower price bracket by sourcing a first rate Indonesian buildhouse with first rate quality control. They are phenomenal drivers and I know this because I have a shelf full of them for building with. In over 20 pairs of SBA drivers I've owned there was not a single quality issue with glue, sound, cosmetics or anything. The only driver I have heard a more natural sound from is the EAD E100HD MKII but that is on a completely different level, yet the performance of the SBA drivers is extremely close by comparison, close enough in order to deserve the comparison to begin with. They are as utterly transparent in their passband as it gets for a dynamic type driver. The aluminum (black or silver cone) or white cone ceramic drivers are some of the finest devices you will hear at present.

And hey, I won't even ask you to believe me. I'll let others who do the same thing I do reinforce what I'm sharing.

www.audioexcite.com » SB Acoustics SB17NAC35-4

SBAcoustics-61-NAC

SB Monitor SB15CAC30-08 & SB21RDC-C000-4 - iAMP - DIY way to build Your own amplifier

That's The Truth Son! Well said.