Need help tuning IDMax 12D4V3

[Bdozers]

Hi guys,

I picked up a used IDMax 12 over the weekend to replace my powered infinity basslink 10 because the thing was not cutting it. I just finished installing it with my friend's borrowed HiFonics Zeus 1200w amp that puts out ~400w at 4ohms.

This thing is a bit loud.. like boomy loud. I picked up the box from the seller as well which was a dual chambered setup. Originally I was gonna chop off the other half and just recarpet but after some reading a new box with a custom cubic setup might be the better choice. I'm new to all this (in practice) so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm hoping to get bass that I can feel in my back versus in my chest (and head... and ears... and everywhere) for a lack of better explanation. Right now it'll feel uncomfortable listening to it turned up for any extended period of time..

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[YourNameHere 10+ year member]

so what are you expecting/goals.... if its too loud, tweek the gain down.....or adjust yer lpf lower and give it more power so you feel that deepness .... i dunno just my suggestion (im buzzed)... play around with it (box position, lpf, power)....its trial and error till ya find what ya like, welcome to car audio...every vehicle, equipment, power, ect. is different (variables) just gotta experiment.... just my 2 cents

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

1. Youre running it at 2 ohms not 4

2. What size is the box?

3. That idmax deserves better than hifonics

 

[shredder2]

1. Youre running it at 2 ohms not 42. What size is the box?

3. That idmax deserves better than hifonics

Be more specific about this "dual chambered box" you're currently using... lol

Sorry KCR... wrong person quoted

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

dude that a good sub get a better box even one like the 2cf one i have the smaller version of , i for my pioneer ebay like $70 (opening will be to small just make it bigger) that would be much better than cutting a box in 1/2 or whatever u planning.. d4 if wired right is 2 ohm not 4ohm., if amp has ss filter set it at 35hz or so i'm sure your box is tuned high.. if u are using a dual box for 1 sub the box maybe too big for sub so don't set gain high (keep it at like 1/4) don't use bass boost and set lp xover at 70hz..

 

[Bdozers]

1. Youre running it at 2 ohms not 42. What size is the box?

3. That idmax deserves better than hifonics

The unit is a 4 ohm unit. Any reason why it would be running at 2? I haven't measured the box but will do so tomorrow when I can find my **** measuring tape. As far as the amp goes its just something I borrowed from my friend to make sure the sub works. I don't plan on running on it anything crazy though as my car was initially ran by a shop with 8gauge since my powered unit was very weak and was sufficient. I don't have plans to run new wiring to support a better amp. I don't think I should with my stock alternator anyways (I believe its rated at 150A ---- 2011 C300)

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

It's how the sub is wired to the amp, therefore what impedance the amp "sees" from the sub.

Post up a pic of sub and box if you can.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

The unit is a 4 ohm unit. Any reason why it would be running at 2? I haven't measured the box but will do so tomorrow when I can find my **** measuring tape. As far as the amp goes its just something I borrowed from my friend to make sure the sub works. I don't plan on running on it anything crazy though as my car was initially ran by a shop with 8gauge since my powered unit was very weak and was sufficient. I don't have plans to run new wiring to support a better amp. I don't think I should with my stock alternator anyways (I believe its rated at 150A ---- 2011 C300)

Uh wtf? IF you plan on getting an amp, ya that is a must. That 8 gauge is like the smallest wire to run a 200 watt amp and that's it.

 

[Bdozers]

Uh wtf? IF you plan on getting an amp, ya that is a must. That 8 gauge is like the smallest wire to run a 200 watt amp and that's it.

From everything I read 8 gauge should support up to 500watts no problem. Is this not the case?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

From everything I read 8 gauge should support up to 500watts no problem. Is this not the case?

Well what amp you plan on running?

 

[Bdozers]

Well what amp you plan on running?

I haven't selected anything yet but something that runs around 300-400rms @4 ohms

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

you gonna smoke that sub with dirty power and melt those cables eventually and start a real sh*tshow of an install if you keep cheaping out on the important sh*t.

Get an install bay 4 gauge kit, its 20 bucks on amazon. copy what the shop did and run the wire the same way, viola done.

Also hifonics amps **** for anything under 30hz. There's a built in limiter i've noticed. Definitely a super garbage amp for any kind of sound quality. Even with the subsonic filter off, after I replaced the hifonics with a proper amp, there was a ginormous amount of gain under 30hz with nothing else other than an amp swap. that massaging bass you want is deep smooth bass with low frequencies.

As for a box 2.25-2.5 cubes after subwoofer and port displacement tuned to 28-30hz will do great.

 

[shredder2]

I haven't selected anything yet but something that runs around 300-400rms @4 ohms

Interesting that you are trying to get a solid low-end and plan on 300-400 watts. That's an IDMax correct?.. I'd recommend +750 watts at least in a low tuned ported like others said.

You'll probably just clip it to death trying to get loud on low power.

Box it right and power it right, straighten out the wiring and enjoy... those subs get low well if boxed and powered right.

 

[Bdozers]

you gonna smoke that sub with dirty power and melt those cables eventually and start a real sh*tshow of an install if you keep cheaping out on the important sh*t.
Get an install bay 4 gauge kit, its 20 bucks on amazon. copy what the shop did and run the wire the same way, viola done.

Also hifonics amps **** for anything under 30hz. There's a built in limiter i've noticed. Definitely a super garbage amp for any kind of sound quality. Even with the subsonic filter off, after I replaced the hifonics with a proper amp, there was a ginormous amount of gain under 30hz with nothing else other than an amp swap. that massaging bass you want is deep smooth bass with low frequencies.

As for a box 2.25-2.5 cubes after subwoofer and port displacement tuned to 28-30hz will do great.

Not so much cheaping out as much as I really just don't have the time. I work 6 days a week and the shop that did my install last time took nearly 3 hours with two guys to do the whole job. I really don't understand if it's my car or if its the workers but the place has a **** ton of reviews on Yelp which is why I went to them in the first place. Not looking forward to sitting through that again but I probably will end up going back to get it redone based on all the recommendations. I'll just remember to bring my laptop this time so I can work while I wait instead of doing nothing.

If I'm looking for separation between low end frequencies would I still want a box at that cubic volume?

Interesting that you are trying to get a solid low-end and plan on 300-400 watts. That's an IDMax correct?.. I'd recommend +750 watts at least in a low tuned ported like others said. You'll probably just clip it to death trying to get loud on low power.

Box it right and power it right, straighten out the wiring and enjoy... those subs get low well if boxed and powered right.

I definitely don't want it loud. It just shakes my entire car right now so turning it up is only gonna make it worse. At the current setup, I found about 20-30% of the volume dial turned is where I'd prefer it to be. Given this, would the new unit still benefit from a higher rated amp? I understand a better amp will make it sound better but does power capacity come into play if the volume is turned down that low?

Sorry for all the questions, just really new to all this and obviously I'm doing a **** ton wrong. Honestly would've saved myself a lot of headaches if I just went with a real sub from the get-go.

P.S. - I noticed a lot of the replies are shitting on the amp. Just wanted to point out again that the thing was a loaner for when I picked up the sub to make sure it worked and I'm hoping it doesn't derail the thread.

 

[Jcsaudio]

Do not get the Install Bay 4 gauge wiring kit for $20 on Amazon. Its made out of **** CCA (copper clad aluminum), which is garbage. The wire in this kit will not handle the same amount of electrical load as a 4 AWG OFC cable. Get a good quality real OFC 4 gauge (oxygen-free copper) or larger wire such as those offered by Chrutchfield or NVX. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45061_NVX-XAPK4.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4.html?tp=2919&awkw=216571719385&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=111687890305&awdv=c&awug=1018092&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsZCyzYqZ2wIVRL7ACh23XQXJEAQYASABEgKZUPD_BwE

Do not use this https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526983451&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Install+Bay+4+gauge+wire+amplifier&psc=1