New to car audio, do I got this right? Basic setup..

I run my SA's at 1200+ rms daily //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

 
Alright, I'll look into 0GA all around, can I run to Lowes and get 0GA? Or is the wire at the Car audio shops special in some way? Because the only car audio shop in my town they want 3 bucks a foot for 4ga! it's like $5.50 for 0ga, GEESH!

Edit: someone said to upgrade my speaker wire as well, I think it's like... 16ga? Way little, what size should speaker wire be running at?

Look into ordering some wire off here, or ebay, KnuKonceptz has great wire for fairy cheap. I would go with at least 12 gauge speaker wire. The bigger the better.

 
Alright, I'll look into 0GA all around, can I run to Lowes and get 0GA? Or is the wire at the Car audio shops special in some way? Because the only car audio shop in my town they want 3 bucks a foot for 4ga! it's like $5.50 for 0ga, GEESH!

Edit: someone said to upgrade my speaker wire as well, I think it's like... 16ga? Way little, what size should speaker wire be running at?
Yeah. Order the 1/0ga online. And order OFC not CCA.

And as for the speaker wire. Get the biggest size that fits into your amp. You don't want any power loss due to wires. Lowes has 1/0ga? I doubt it.

 

---------- Post added at 03:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:33 PM ----------

 

They can take 700 no problem you said, but can they take 850?? That's above and beyond the 600RMS it claims.
There well built subs. They should be fine. If not. Turn the gain down a little.

 
Alright, so I am gonna go outside and wire my stuff up to 1ohm. and see how that hits, and keep my gains down to make sure I don't blow those at 850 each...

And so a "Class D" is just a lower end amp? A "Class - A" would produce more power?

 
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