New to car audio, do I got this right? Basic setup..

Alright, so what I am running is two SA-12 D4s, and a Hifonics Brutus 1700

So, even though I got slapped in the face verbally for mentioning a power Cap on this forum, I have mine still hooked up.

View attachment 26536120View attachment 26536119

I have one 6Ga wiring running to my battery, to the positive Cap, then another 6ga running from the positive cap to the amp, then my 6Ga ground to the cap checked with meter its a 0.0 ground.

I'm almost positive that's right, my real question is if I have my subs wired correctly..

So, I have my SA-12 D4 wired in parallel. (one wire running from Positive to positive, then another wire running out of one of the positives to the termial and same exact thing on the negative)

They are 4OMH, so that cuts them down to 2ohm.. Right? And my Brutus 1700 should be pushing 1200 at 2OMH, but that is 2x the required power for that Sounddown... So, do I then need to run them in Series to get them back up to 4OMH? Brutus pushes 600 at 4omh.

Right now they are wired in parallel only, so that is pushing 1200 to each of them right? 1200 Per channel?

One last basic question, a "Class-D Mono" amp is basically a subwoofer amp right? Mono is it just sends one signal? instead of left right? What is the "Class-D"

Thank you for any educational tips you can provide!

Quick edit: Just to be clear, nothing is wrong with my system, it plays just fine. I am just double checking my wires to make sure I don't blow my new SA-12 D4s!

 
Alright, so what I am running is two SA-12 D4s, and a Hifonics Brutus 1700

So, even though I got slapped in the face verbally for mentioning a power Cap on this forum, I have mine still hooked up.

View attachment 26536120View attachment 26536119

I have one 6Ga wiring running to my battery, to the positive Cap, then another 6ga running from the positive cap to the amp, then my 6Ga ground to the cap checked with meter its a 0.0 ground.

I'm almost positive that's right, my real question is if I have my subs wired correctly..

So, I have my SA-12 D4 wired in parallel. (one wire running from Positive to positive, then another wire running out of one of the positives to the termial and same exact thing on the negative)

They are 4OMH, so that cuts them down to 2ohm.. Right? And my Brutus 1700 should be pushing 1200 at 2OMH, but that is 2x the required power for that Sounddown... So, do I then need to run them in Series to get them back up to 4OMH? Brutus pushes 600 at 4omh.

Right now they are wired in parallel only, so that is pushing 1200 to each of them right? 1200 Per channel?

One last basic question, a "Class-D Mono" amp is basically a subwoofer amp right? Mono is it just sends one signal? instead of left right? What is the "Class-D"

Thank you for any educational tips you can provide!

Quick edit: Just to be clear, nothing is wrong with my system, it plays just fine. I am just double checking my wires to make sure I don't blow my new SA-12 D4s!
well first all the speakers + & -'s running to the amp together is a 1ohm load, and the speakers will each see half of the amps output at 1ohm so if it where 1000rms @ 1ohm each sub would see 500w rms, as for the class D it's the topology of the amps circuitry and it just means it's more efficient at turning power to sound but usually at the cost of some rise THD over a class a/b amp.

 
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, Two 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speakers

No. You are not doing 1200 watts per channel. The amp is a mono amp. Its 1200x1.

so you should be doing 600 watts per sub.

Sell the capacitor on ebay or craigslist. Upgrade your front battery, and all of your cars grounds that connect to the front battery. Use 4Ga at least. But you should just do it right with 0ga.

Run at least 4ga to your amp and from your battery. Ditch that 6ga.

Class D is the efficiency of the amp. Class A/B amps aren't as power efficient but are better sounding (mids/high amps) Class D amps are very power efficient but do not sound as good.

 
yea I didn't even think to go on about the power wire but yea my speaker wire is bigger then your power wire! you really need to go through and do some reading on how and why things work and then you will understand why it all needs to be the way it does.

 
Just to clarify,

You have (2) SA Dual 4 Ohm woofers? They are rated at 600w each, and knowing sundown, they can probably take 700w no problem.

The 1700.1 amp will produce 600w @ 4ohm, (300w per woofer), 1200w @ 2ohm (600w per woofer) or 1700 @ 1ohm (850w per woofer).

You cannot achieve a 2ohm load with 2 Dual 4 woofers. Your options are 1ohm (Parallel) 4ohm (Series/Parallel) and 16 ohm (Series). I recommend you wire in Parallel.

Edit: ****, lots of people helping you out! Thought I was first //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/nerd.gif.c6fa51ddf7ff75f1c0371fbc648f70ae.gif

 
well first all the speakers + & -'s running to the amp together is a 1ohm load, and the speakers will each see half of the amps output at 1ohm so if it where 1000rms @ 1ohm each sub would see 500w rms, as for the class D it's the topology of the amps circuitry and it just means it's more efficient at turning power to sound but usually at the cost of some rise THD over a class a/b amp.
The two SA-12 D4s aren't connected, they are in parallel indivual at 2Ohm each.

 
Just to clarify, You have (2) SA Dual 4 Ohm woofers? They are rated at 600w each, and knowing sundown, they can probably take 700w no problem.

The 1700.1 amp will produce 600w @ 4ohm, (300w per woofer), 1200w @ 2ohm (600w per woofer) or 1700 @ 1ohm (850w per woofer).

You cannot achieve a 2ohm load with 2 Dual 4 woofers. Your options are 1ohm (Parallel) 4ohm (Series/Parallel) and 16 ohm (Series). I recommend you wire in Parallel.
Now THAT is helpful! I did not know if it produced 600Watt at 4ohm per channel, or 600 between the two. I will wire them down to 1Ohm.

 
The two SA-12 D4s aren't connected, they are in parallel indivual at 2Ohm each.
Grab a Digital multi meter buddy. When You set it to ohms. And put it on your amps speaker terminals. Its going to read around 1 ohm.

Because even though you wired the subs separately. They are still meeting together at the amp. Your amp is seeing that as 1 ohm. And your subs should be fine. Your most likely not making that 1700 at all times.

 
Now THAT is helpful! I did not know if it produced 600Watt at 4ohm per channel, or 600 between the two. I will wire them down to 1Ohm.
They can take 700 no problem you said, but can they take 850?? That's above and beyond the 600RMS it claims.

 
Grab a Digital multi meter buddy. When You set it to ohms. And put it on your amps speaker terminals. Its going to read around 1 ohm.
Because even though you wired the subs separately. They are still meeting together at the amp. Your amp is seeing that as 1 ohm. And your subs should be fine. Your most likely not making that 1700 at all times.
I'll do that right now, be right back ! It should claim 1OMH at the amp ?

 
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, Two 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) SpeakersNo. You are not doing 1200 watts per channel. The amp is a mono amp. Its 1200x1.

so you should be doing 600 watts per sub.

Sell the capacitor on ebay or craigslist. Upgrade your front battery, and all of your cars grounds that connect to the front battery. Use 4Ga at least. But you should just do it right with 0ga.

Run at least 4ga to your amp and from your battery. Ditch that 6ga.

Class D is the efficiency of the amp. Class A/B amps aren't as power efficient but are better sounding (mids/high amps) Class D amps are very power efficient but do not sound as good.

Alright, I'll look into 0GA all around, can I run to Lowes and get 0GA? Or is the wire at the Car audio shops special in some way? Because the only car audio shop in my town they want 3 bucks a foot for 4ga! it's like $5.50 for 0ga, GEESH!

Edit: someone said to upgrade my speaker wire as well, I think it's like... 16ga? Way little, what size should speaker wire be running at?

 
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