New Member seeking advice for Hot Rod install

[35WINDOW]

Hello everyone-

I am a newbie to your Forum, and while I understand how to build a Car, I am definitely lost when it comes to Car Audio-

I am building a 1935 Ford 5 Window Coupe (with a 850hp Big Block), and need some serious help in the design/layout of my Stereo-

I am hoping to run this with either my Android or an Ipod, as, to me, nothing dates a Car quicker than an old style Radio in the Dash- (I want it hidden)-

Well, I jumped the Gun yesterday and purchased an Infinity Kappa K5 Amp due to it's Bluetooth capability-today I am trying to figure out if I did a bad thing-

It appears to be possible to run this thing without a Head Unit-correct? If that's true, then could I just download a EQ program to my Android to control the bass/Treble/etc.? (see, I told you I'm clueless!)-

I'm also trying to understand which Sub(s) to buy (and, which Speakers), as this is a relatively small car (compared to most of the Cars today), so space is at a premium-

Maybe I should buy all Infinity Subs/Speakers? Please educate me! I want to do this right-

Click to read more...

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Just by the blurb on their website it looks like you should be able to throw music via bluetooth from an Android device to that amp. Best to read the manual a couple times to figure out how because I'd never even heard of that.

I've seen people using tablets (and even computers) as source units and IMO it's never as user friendly as a head unit where it's just for audio and everything is thought out to do that well (and the convenience of remote control). I'd worry that trying to **** around with an android app to play music will be rather dangerous like texting while trying to drive as opposed to a knob and a couple buttons to change tracks/stations. Even a modern touchscreen head unit has a control with the few buttons you'll need to use 99% of the time handy to use without taking your eye off the road.

I've always been happy with JBL/Harmon/Infinity products. They're typically worth the money and perform as advertised, and they have a range of lines from entry level to really high end. In that camp, the JBL Wgti MkII series subs are outstanding but may be a little big for you. If you can mount one inverse (with the frame showing) they're really sweet looking so if you can plan your trunk around one of those inverse mounted in a small-ish sealed box you'd be very happy and have something worthy of showing off.

Pics of this car would be great though. Oh and picture hosting on this site is finicky, you'll need to upload pics to an image sharing site and just post the links.

 

[35WINDOW]

Thank you very much for your help!

If I were to put a Head Unit in the Car, I'd want it to be hidden (with a wireless Remote if possible)-I've looked at the Marine stuff, and most of it seems to be wired (I'm trying to keep my Dash uncluttered)-

Anyway, here are a few Pictures:

Here is the Car (it will be Painted Gloss Black):

This is where the Interior is today:

Here is the Engine:

Here is the Trunk so far:

 

[BCotrell]

they have amps with dsp built in that you control with an app on your phone, includes software..

Audiocontrol d-4.800, compact physical footprint, contains all necessary inputs/outputs. Also has out for separate sub amp amp

 

[JessyBoy86]

Thank you very much for your help!
If I were to put a Head Unit in the Car, I'd want it to be hidden (with a wireless Remote if possible)-I've looked at the Marine stuff, and most of it seems to be wired (I'm trying to keep my Dash uncluttered)-

Anyway, here are a few Pictures:

Here is the Car (it will be Painted Gloss Black):

This is where the Interior is today:

Here is the Engine:

Here is the Trunk so far:

Holy crap, what a nice monster you got there...really B@d@ss looking ! The ITB setup looks just insane ! That thing must roar like a mothafucka !

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Dear God that's an engine! What a nice old car.

Much less trunk space than I expected. How much metal/meat is between the trunk and the passenger compartment? It might be tough getting any bass up front whatsoever, particularly if you have limited space. The saying goes "space makes bass". Your main limit eventually becomes how big of a box you can use.

Is there any place on or under the dash you could just hide a head unit behind a panel that can be removed (manually or opened by servo) so that you can have easy access when you need but keep it "stealth" too? I've seen a lot of folks with classic cars mount them in the glove box for example.

 

[35WINDOW]

Dear God that's an engine! What a nice old car.
Much less trunk space than I expected. How much metal/meat is between the trunk and the passenger compartment? It might be tough getting any bass up front whatsoever, particularly if you have limited space. The saying goes "space makes bass". Your main limit eventually becomes how big of a box you can use.

Is there any place on or under the dash you could just hide a head unit behind a panel that can be removed (manually or opened by servo) so that you can have easy access when you need but keep it "stealth" too? I've seen a lot of folks with classic cars mount them in the glove box for example.

Thank you to all who have responded, and for the compliments (I'm blushing! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif )-

I have actually cut up the Dash, and took out the Glovebox as I wanted as "clean" of an Instrument Panel as I could make it (that is actually a 1932 Ford Roadster Dash)-

I really don't have much space under the Dash (as I have my Holley EFI Computer and Air Conditioner/Heater there)-it may be a possibility to run a "Bass Tube" kinda deal behind the Seat maybe (but I don't know much about them)-

Here is an earlier picture of my Interior (just after I sprayed Lizard Skin and started installing the Dynamat)-see the black bracing? See the left rear Wheel Tub? I actually have that space above the Wheel Tub that I could build some kind of a Box to house a Sub (maybe one on each side? Kindahard to see, but the brace curves-)-



As for a Head Unit, I think if I have to have it, I would like to mount it in the Back and control it with a Remote (if possible)-you can also see the Trunk space (that I built-these Cars originally did not have a Trunk)-

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

That indent in the floor could be reinforced with fiberglass, faced off with some MDF, and hold a 10" sub or two. Alternate option you could seal off that "trunk" from the cabin really well and mount a sub to that "free air" or "infinite baffle" we call it. Essentially using your trunk as a box, so you chose a sub that performs well in a very large sealed box. This is a great method for being relatively easy and space saving. Also if you got something with a pretty backside it would show nicely when you pop the trunk. Use the search function on the site for "infinite baffle" and see some examples. Either would give plenty of low end for sane folks.

Infinite baffle would be my advice unless you're somewhat comfortable with fiberglass. Looks like you could seal that off with a relatively square piece of wood, cut a hole or two, paint/carpet and call it a day while giving up virtually no space.

Pics of the dash area? I'm believe all head unit remotes are line-of-sight, but I believe "repeaters" are out there so you can tuck it away wherever and use your remote pointed at a reciever which you can stash somewhere central. If you've never used a modern head unit with remote they're amazingly handy and you'll never want to do without one after you get used to where the buttons are.

Another interesting option is some of the modern head units are set up to shake hands well with Android/bluetooth. I'm still using a rather antiquated head unit just because I love the display, so I'm not really up on the latest and greatest.

Definitely a good call on the deadening. Look into CCF (closed cell foam) and MLV (mass loaded vinyl). I'm guessing that's going to be a really loud ride if you don't really go big on deadening the interior. From an audio standpoint, if you can lower the "noise floor" by even 3dB that's the equivalent of doubling speakers or amp size.

 

[35WINDOW]

That indent in the floor could be reinforced with fiberglass, faced off with some MDF, and hold a 10" sub or two. Alternate option you could seal off that "trunk" from the cabin really well and mount a sub to that "free air" or "infinite baffle" we call it. Essentially using your trunk as a box, so you chose a sub that performs well in a very large sealed box. This is a great method for being relatively easy and space saving. Also if you got something with a pretty backside it would show nicely when you pop the trunk. Use the search function on the site for "infinite baffle" and see some examples. Either would give plenty of low end for sane folks.
Infinite baffle would be my advice unless you're somewhat comfortable with fiberglass. Looks like you could seal that off with a relatively square piece of wood, cut a hole or two, paint/carpet and call it a day while giving up virtually no space.

Pics of the dash area?

Here is the best I have right now (the Holley EFI Computer is mounted above the Steering Column, and you can see the Air Conditioner under the right side of the Dash (it's the textured piece):

Hmmm, I like the "Infinite baffle" idea, although I do have a lot of Fiberglass experience (itch, itch)-

I guess I have no other choice but to get a Head unit (although that Audiocontrol d-4.800 looks pretty cool, albeit a bit overkill)-I'll look around Crutchfield to see what they have, although if I have to have a Head Unit, I'll have to admit that I kinda like the round Marine units (easier to hide)-

Does it matter whether the Sub(s) are mounted forward or reversed? One other stupid question-I see that, for instance, you can buy a 6 X 9 with three voice coils, or, you can buy them separately (with crossovers)-I understand that it would put the Tweeters (and such) more at the ear level, but is it that big of a Deal to buy them as just 1 Speaker?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I do have a lot of Fiberglass experience (itch, itch)-

Yeah, you got the basic idea.

All kidding aside, yeah that's not much of a "dash" to work with at all, though you might get away with something like this for mounting component speakers (if you don't mind some itch itch).

his full install is here: 2008 Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound System - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Not terribly loud but sounds absolutely amazing. I mention it because the floating eye look mounting small woofers and tweeters on the dash would match your custom display and the imaging is pretty top notch keeping the soundstage up high like that. Also consider just tweeters up high and mids in the doors or kicks.

Like I said, I suspect your amp will work using an Android device for a source, but I just think it's not going to be terribly user friendly or safe to try to **** around with that as you drive. If you only plan to really play the radio at car shows or never change the station/track/volume/etc. then it may just be OK to build a frame that you can slide your android in and out of when you drive.

In general coaxials are simple and sound good for the sake of all the sound comes from the same place (eliminating a lot of issues that can come up with separate sources) but typically "component" (separate mid and tweeter) use higher quality drivers for each. Personal preference there. If you go into a couple local shops and listen to a few sets of whatever they have in the board you should get an idea of if coaxials are adequate. The coaxials with multiple tweeters are generally gimmicky and junk. If you're not going to get really fancy 3 way mids and highs is not going to benefit you at all, and typically unnecessary.

For subwoofers which direction they face will be inaudible and only a cosmetic choice. Do go ahead and google "infinite baffle trunk" and see some images. There's some good examples there. I've heard a few and they sound really nice if you pick drivers that work well for that application.

Perhaps in evening/night some other forum members will chime in with other ideas. These boards generally liven up a little at night.

 

[The Camry]

That truck is going to be far too loud to ever have any kind of sound quality. Id focus on power over anything else. Just get loud in a ride like that. Fiberglass with coaxials in kicks I think are your best bet

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 

[35WINDOW]

Yeah, you got the basic idea.
All kidding aside, yeah that's not much of a "dash" to work with at all, though you might get away with something like this for mounting component speakers (if you don't mind some itch itch).

his full install is here: 2008 Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound System - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Not terribly loud but sounds absolutely amazing. I mention it because the floating eye look mounting small woofers and tweeters on the dash would match your custom display and the imaging is pretty top notch keeping the soundstage up high like that. Also consider just tweeters up high and mids in the doors or kicks.

Like I said, I suspect your amp will work using an Android device for a source, but I just think it's not going to be terribly user friendly or safe to try to **** around with that as you drive. If you only plan to really play the radio at car shows or never change the station/track/volume/etc. then it may just be OK to build a frame that you can slide your android in and out of when you drive.

In general coaxials are simple and sound good for the sake of all the sound comes from the same place (eliminating a lot of issues that can come up with separate sources) but typically "component" (separate mid and tweeter) use higher quality drivers for each. Personal preference there. If you go into a couple local shops and listen to a few sets of whatever they have in the board you should get an idea of if coaxials are adequate. The coaxials with multiple tweeters are generally gimmicky and junk. If you're not going to get really fancy 3 way mids and highs is not going to benefit you at all, and typically unnecessary.

For subwoofers which direction they face will be inaudible and only a cosmetic choice. Do go ahead and google "infinite baffle trunk" and see some images. There's some good examples there. I've heard a few and they sound really nice if you pick drivers that work well for that application.

Perhaps in evening/night some other forum members will chime in with other ideas. These boards generally liven up a little at night.

Thank you-I did Google "Infinite baffle" and saw what you are talking about-seems simple enough, and I've found a few Head Units that will work I think-

As far as the 6 X 9's and such, I was looking at the ones offered by Infinity (they seem to offer both (separate and component), so that is why I asked)-

I'd like to thank you very much for all of your help (this at the very least gets me started)-

 

[35WINDOW]

That truck is going to be far too loud to ever have any kind of sound quality. Id focus on power over anything else. Just get loud in a ride like that. Fiberglass with coaxials in kicks I think are your best bet
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

Thank you for your input!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Thank you-I did Google "Infinite baffle" and saw what you are talking about-seems simple enough, and I've found a few Head Units that will work I think-
As far as the 6 X 9's and such, I was looking at the ones offered by Infinity (they seem to offer both (separate and component), so that is why I asked)-

I'd like to thank you very much for all of your help (this at the very least gets me started)-

I've always liked Infinity for coaxials, and if you can fit 6X9 it's a good choice, they get plenty loud without dumping a ton of power into them.

The important bit with doing IB correctly is completely sealing off the trunk airtight and use a stout baffle (double layer 3/4"). From there, pick woofer(s) with low FS (20-30hz neighborhood) and Qts between .6 and 1.0 (.707 is considered optimum but you'll have some wiggle room there). Some companies geared towards home theater make some nice IB oriented woofers. In a home you'd do them in a ceiling and have your attic as the "box" or in a wall and have another room as the "box".

Camry is probably right that just trying to hear anything over that engine may require a bit more oomph. Please keep us updated on the build, that is a sick hot-rod.

 

[The Camry]

I see you have some dynamat up front. I would suggest dynamat and MlV around your entire cabin. Try to make it as quiet as possible before addressing audio.

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products

i suggest taking a read through that site.

Image dynamics makes good coaxials as well. Perhaps look into a shallow mount subwoofer with a small box requirement such as the Sundown Sd-3.

Im not a fan of anything infinity.