need suggestions on diy comps

i'm looking to go active here. 2-way comp set needed. prefer diy route. 6.5" needed. and i do know about diymobileaudio.com but i want YOUR opinions and i will look into them as well

amps i have are two diamonds:

d3 400.2

Type: Full Range

Channels: 2

RMS @ 4 Ohm: 100 x 2

RMS Mono: 400 x 1 @ 4 Ohm

THD: 0.05%

Crossovers: Low Pass, High Pass

d5 300.2

CHANNELS: 2

o AMP OUTPUT: @ 11V - 14.5V

o RMS @ 4 Ohms = 75 x 2

o RMS @ 2 Ohms = 150 x 2

o RMS @ 4 Ohms = 300 x 1 Bridged

* Fully regulated power supply

* Variable Electronic Crossovers

* Nickel Plated Solid Brass 4-gauge Power Connectors

* Nickel Plated Solid Brass 10-gauge Speaker Connectors

* 2 Oz Silver Plated Copper Circuit Board

* THD: .03%

* F/R: 10Hz -50Khz

* S/N: 100dB

* Channel Separation: 80dB

* Amplifer Size: 12.5" x 2.75" x 12"

* FUSE RATING: 60 AMP MAX

* MADE IN THE USA

this is what i have to work with. also i listen to alot of punk/emo/ska/hardcore/metal and some rap.

as for tweeters i'd probly prefer soft/silk tweeters.

 
well when doing at diy setup, just look at the frequency response graphs to see how they play. look to see if they can play low meaning for tweeters low is between the 1-2khz range, meaning is the response graph pretty much flat around that area. now once you choose a tweeter. then try to find a mid that can play up to where the tweeter starts rolling off the frequency response graph. you can also do vice versa, look at a mid's FR graph then find a tweet to match up with it.

as for any specs, tweeters don't need that much power to get them going. tweeters are pretty efficient.

 
I am running Koda 6 mids and those Aura tweets that were on here for a while. When i was running active it was with the Seas CA18RNX and Aura tweets. sounded great. The Seas CA18RNX are almost the same size as 6.5s. I repleaced my ID6.5s with the seas and didnt have to do any cutting to fit them.

 
well when doing at diy setup, just look at the frequency response graphs to see how they play. look to see if they can play low meaning for tweeters low is between the 1-2khz range, meaning is the response graph pretty much flat around that area. now once you choose a tweeter. then try to find a mid that can play up to where the tweeter starts rolling off the frequency response graph. you can also do vice versa, look at a mid's FR graph then find a tweet to match up with it.
as for any specs, tweeters don't need that much power to get them going. tweeters are pretty efficient.
that's what i wanted to hear. another question. how do you kno if it's a reliable tweeter just by reading the specs and looking at the fr graphs?

 
I am running Koda 6 mids and those Aura tweets that were on here for a while. When i was running active it was with the Seas CA18RNX and Aura tweets. sounded great. The Seas CA18RNX are almost the same size as 6.5s. I repleaced my ID6.5s with the seas and didnt have to do any cutting to fit them.
yeah i have problems with getting speakers with oversized baskets like the cdts and i have no room to fabricate an mdf ring behind the panel without modding it and prefer to stay away from that.

 
that's what i wanted to hear. another question. how do you kno if it's a reliable tweeter just by reading the specs and looking at the fr graphs?
you really can't tell realiability by just looking at the numbers, do a search around, if you find a tweet you like, search the forums for any kind of reviews of them, talking to people who have actually used the product is about the only way you're going ot be able to get any gauge of realiability, those LPG's mentioned above are great tweets, but there are TONS more......just search around for what you like then ask what others opinions are on them....relaly the only way

 
thanks to you both //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

and what do you mean by reliable? remember the car environment isn't the greatest place for speakers. the frequency response just gives you a pretty good, not exact, idea of how they play.

 
thanks to you both //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.
and what do you mean by reliable? remember the car environment isn't the greatest place for speakers. the frequency response just gives you a pretty good, not exact, idea of how they play.
by reliability i meant how good and clean they'll play, the quality of sound produced, etc. or if they'll be some crappy flat, dull tweets or if they'll be full, dynamic, bright tweets with great sq and no distortion while getting in the lower frequencies.

 
by reliability i meant how good and clean they'll play, the quality of sound produced, etc. or if they'll be some crappy flat, dull tweets or if they'll be full, dynamic, bright tweets with great sq and no distortion while getting in the lower frequencies.
roger i see what you're saying. this site should be your friend in answering all your questions: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5.

 
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