You plan to run the 10" sub in the passenger footwell up to 150hz?i'm in the same position (almost)
however, by moving the low range i need up to as high as 150 hz (i run a 10" sub up front) and using the full body horns can i avoid the issues here?
Budget?what subwoofer would you drop in a .8 cubic foot enclosure (passenger footwell) with 500 rms x1 @2 ohms, with what mids (thinking 2 6.5s per side- can do any size enclosure if needed) at 125x4 @ 4 ohms? need to keep up with those cd2 comp full bodies
You do realize that your paying for markup due to name, not due to driver quality. PE sells the same raw drivers drivers for a hundred dollars or so that are the exact same drivers that martin logan throws into boxes and sells for several, several, thousands of dollars. Raw drivers don't cost much money. Markup, crossover designs and other R&d that are involved in making a premade setup in a box cost money. Look at CDT, there ES line is simply rebadged vifa's. You can buy the same midbass drivers they use in their $700 line. Wanna guess how much, 45 dollars, LOL! You can find an equal quality tweeter, heck a better tweet for less than 50, again, using raw parts. Then if you have an onboard crossover in your deck, you've just made a $700 component set for under 150 dollars. Only difference being you can tweak your sound from the hu much easier. Just looking at specs, you can find lots of midbasses MUCH more competent than what your using all at less than 150 for the pair, no sweat.
150hz shouldn't require that[/]much excursion. Regardless, it's displacement your looking at. A 6.5 inch driver needs almost 2x the excursion to match an 8, not quite, but close. All in all, those are like 6-7mm strokes on a smaller diameter driver, which is quite healthy, wouldn't you say? If your looking for subbass type extension down to 70-80, yes they may be a bit taxed, but not much more than a standard driver. However, if you looking for TRUE midbass output 100hz-300hz, they fit the bill nicely. Especially since they are 90+db effecient in the first place. Just throwing loads of power on high excursion drivers doesn't quite do the trick in terms of dymanics. Those mids in an AP setup would work well. Honestly, the 10inch version will probably end up being my midbasses.I doubt the B&C driver has the displacement capabilities to really belt out
sucks you already bought them:crap:
the Dayton RS225 can reach to 1000ish hz and sound phenomenal...there are better *dedicated* midbasses but the RS225 covers the midbass and all of the midrange at an absolutely spectacular price. The other option would be some Seas Excel W22s, but those are $$$.
looks like i didn't read the whole thread properly, oops. sorry to highjack but i have yet to find anyone on any forums using these drivers with horns. it is something that i wanted to try because of the slim mounting depth of these drivers. my biggest concern was sound quality and output to match up with my horns (Veritas 66 series). how do you find the sq and output with your horns? i am going to use all active crossovers. one more thing is they list only up to 500hz on the top end of the specs but i am sure they can be used higher without any negative effects. i will be using crossover frequencies of around 60hz to 600-800hz. thanks for all your help.Yes I'm running the ID horns and the Kicker 8" midbass and the ID crossovers. What is it that you don't understand.
seems there are a LOT of people looking for the best solution for that mid-range (up to 800hz or so) problem
He had his car at my house a few months ago. I was fiddling with my kicks at the time....so I didn't do a very in-depth listening session in his vehicle. Audiolife did though, and could provide a much better overall description of how they performed than myself.I doubt the B&C driver has the displacement capabilities to really belt out
sucks you already bought them:crap:
3-way frontstage horn installs definitely have their advantages, such as the ability to flip the phase of the midrange without affecting the midbass frequencies and the ability, such as with the above driver, to maintain high efficiency in the midrange and allowing you to find a good high output dedicated midbass driver instead of trying to find a single driver that comprises (and possibly compromises) a little of both.For that reason i'd really rather keep the 10" down very low (maybe only let it play 35-70 hz or so), but i'm struggling to find mids i can run which will provide the musical quality i want from that range all the way up to my horns.
i have enough spare amps and processing etc.- that i could go to 3-way PLUS the 10"
is that what i'm hearing is the best route- go to a 50-250 or 300 hz mid AND 250hz-850hz mid AND the horns?
yeah, i have no issues at all with customizing to fit whatever is needed.
what would be a recommended speaker for the 250-850 hz (for the kickpanel location then). will i be able to find some that can keep up with the horns well volume wise?
Depends on your budget and if you have any space restrictions. Ideally; 8" - 10"what would be a recommended speaker for the 50-250 range?