Need some 8" Midbasses

Be careful with pro audio drivers....need large enclosures or low end response will suffer. That high sensitivity comes at a cost.....

Had you not already purchased, I would have recommended you purchase the Illusion Audio 8" comp set for sale on ECA and use the mids out of those.

 
Be careful with pro audio drivers....need large enclosures or low end response will suffer. That high sensitivity comes at a cost.....
Had you not already purchased, I would have recommended you purchase the Illusion Audio 8" comp set for sale on ECA and use the mids out of those.
I'm actually going to try an aperiodic setup on them before i try sealed. They have a QTS of .37 (

 
got room in your doors to do a 3-way? If volume is what your looking for it's your best bet. Your NOT going to find mid that will play 60-1.2k with enough oomph to really keep up with horns, those IDQ's were probably one of your best bets in a 2 way in the first place.

 
got room in your doors to do a 3-way? If volume is what your looking for it's your best bet. Your NOT going to find mid that will play 60-1.2k with enough oomph to really keep up with horns, those IDQ's were probably one of your best bets in a 2 way in the first place.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

 
what mid can you think of that's at even close to 100db effecient that WILL play down to 60hz and up to 1.2k. Pro audio drivers are iffy, even in an AP. By the time you ask a driver to play that wide range you've comprimised power handling. Regardless, loads of power is only going to do so much. You may end up needing to put your mibass out of phase to get the lower midrange to image as high as those horn (rainbow effect is a *****), in which case your midbass goes bye bye. By the time you pad those horns down to get them to the level of the midrange, you've almost defeated the point of the extra effeciency.

I'm not saying 2-way horn setup's can't work. They've been known to work well in the past, classic JBL drivers are legendary for their 2 way horn ability, but impossihble to find! I'm just saying if your going to the extra effort to use horns in the first place, might as well really let them loose, the other drivers are ALWAYS the weak link in a horn install. By the time you get them setup right you have a hyper effecient, well imaging driver with amazing tonal characteristics, hard to match with a regular driver. Especially when your asking 1 driver to do it. If you don't have room, money, or willingness to try it, cool, different strokes for different folks, it was just a suggestion.

Anyway, I'll thow a couple drivers out

Dyn 170's

IDQ 8's

CX62's)

Dayton RS 7's

Morel WR-8's

B&C NDL51

 
I'm running the same setup but I 'm using kicker SSMB8 and I'm not a kicker fan but these are nice and they don't require any mounting depth I think they require 2.5" and they will hit the frequencey you need.

 
I'm running the same setup but I 'm using kicker SSMB8 and I'm not a kicker fan but these are nice and they don't require any mounting depth I think they require 2.5" and they will hit the frequencey you need.
not sure if i am getting this right but, are you using the kickers with horns?

 
But hold on guy , you are running some nice equipment but these guys are sending links to garbage you need to be looking at focal, morel, usd, dynaudio, kicker and rockford you cannot spend $40 dollars and expect to be happy you get what you pay and $40 dollars doesn't sound good.

 
Yes I'm running the ID horns and the Kicker 8" midbass and the ID crossovers. What is it that you don't understand.

How much power are you running to that ?..I have a set of BNIB ID mini horns I was thinking about running with the ID crossovers...I was worried about the horns being over powering ...unless they are attenuated a bit throught the ID crossover....

 
zomg hai guiz i'm all liek wo.

In case you guys are wondering, I ended up buying the B&C 8NDL51's.

I have them in 0.35 cubes each, sealed. They have a little bit of backwave distortion, soon I'll be installing some pads to absorb that. They have a very strong midbass //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
i'm in the same position (almost)

however, by moving the low range i need up to as high as 150 hz (i run a 10" sub up front) and using the full body horns can i avoid the issues here?

what subwoofer would you drop in a .8 cubic foot enclosure (passenger footwell) with 500 rms x1 @2 ohms, with what mids (thinking 2 6.5s per side- can do any size enclosure if needed) at 125x4 @ 4 ohms? need to keep up with those cd2 comp full bodies

 
But hold on guy , you are running some nice equipment but these guys are sending links to garbage you need to be looking at focal, morel, usd, dynaudio, kicker and rockford you cannot spend $40 dollars and expect to be happy you get what you pay and $40 dollars doesn't sound good.
You do realize that your paying for markup due to name, not due to driver quality. PE sells the same raw drivers drivers for a hundred dollars or so that are the exact same drivers that martin logan throws into boxes and sells for several, several, thousands of dollars. Raw drivers don't cost much money. Markup, crossover designs and other R&d that are involved in making a premade setup in a box cost money. Look at CDT, there ES line is simply rebadged vifa's. You can buy the same midbass drivers they use in their $700 line. Wanna guess how much, 45 dollars, LOL! You can find an equal quality tweeter, heck a better tweet for less than 50, again, using raw parts. Then if you have an onboard crossover in your deck, you've just made a $700 component set for under 150 dollars. Only difference being you can tweak your sound from the hu much easier. Just looking at specs, you can find lots of midbasses MUCH more competent than what your using all at less than 150 for the pair, no sweat.

 
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