Need opinion on good 3000+ amp

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Nice! My boy Mattingly (named after an old baseball player Don Mattingly) likes his front porch. The 148.9 @ 31 hz. Dodge in the background.

View attachment 40543

Those terroors are some protective mean azzed dogs man. He's looking!! LOL. My brother had one named Hambone. One mean azzed one person dog man!!

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

So if a SAZ 3500 is half the rail voltage of NS1 the NS1 has a lower output impedance?

And you're still dodging the questions. If damping factor is important why would you even consider running .5 ohm load? Tell us which two amps you tested side by side with different damping factors and give us some details about the rest of the variables involved.

I’m not arguing with you necessarily either, I’m trying to listen to what you know and double check what I know and learn more at the same time:

Damping Factor Explained

Damping Factor is an important - and often misunderstood - amplifier spec that most definitely affects the sound of your audio system.

www.shop.us.kef.com

^^^that’s basically my point:

‘Damping Factor changes with frequency (as does impedance) and is most noticeable at lower frequencies. A high DF typically results in a tighter, more controlled bass, which is usually (but not always) more desirable from a listener’s point-of-view. Low DF results in soft or fat bass.’

That “fly back current” is why it matters with higher xmax, stronger motors, heavier Mms, lower frequencies, etc., IMO. It’s why your box matters, too.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I didn’t read the entire thread but did see the video. With a sub right behind you, be aware that even with a certain xover setting you aren’t totally killing the frequency. It’s still coming through just at a lower amount. Easiest thing to do is set the xover above 120 and play it again. If it’s louder then it may just be all the filtering you will get. If no change, then something is wrong.

Once he gets his sub wired correctly and remove the Output rca leading back into the HU he should get some really nice results I believe. He is feeding the Input back into the HU of which is creating some issues as well as the sub not wired to the ohm load required atm

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Level 2 100% OFC RCA Y Connector 2 Female to 1 Male

Shop online DS18 1 Male to 2 Female Y Connector RCA Splitter. FREE SHIPPING on all US Orders.

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Level 2 100% OFC RCA Y Connector 2 Female to 1 Male

Shop online DS18 1 Male to 2 Female Y Connector RCA Splitter. FREE SHIPPING on all US Orders.

ds18.com

Just make sure you get the Two female to One male directional if using the existing RCAs from the HU that you have.. Ive had where these splitters will only flow in one direction. So take that into consideration when looking for one.

 

[Blackout67]

So I got home and finished rewiring the sub. I believe it's 2 ohm I'm not sure tho I think my dmm is messed up. Before I unwired it, I checked the impedance and it was reading around 1 ohm which doesn't make much sense. But anyways, it seems louder but the high frequency problem persists. Although I did manage to get it to be quite. I got my best results with: Sub level +5, hu lpf set to 80hz, -24 db/octave and the lpf on the amp barely on.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Those terroors are some protective mean azzed dogs man. He's looking!! LOL. My brother had one named Hambone. One mean azzed one person dog man!!

He is a Ratcha. Somebody told me that it is a new AKC breed. Half Rat Terrier and half Chihuahua.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So I got home and finished rewiring the sub. I believe it's 2 ohm I'm not sure tho I think my dmm is messed up. Before I unwired it, I checked the impedance and it was reading around 1 ohm which doesn't make much sense. But anyways, it seems louder but the high frequency problem persists. Although I did manage to get it to be quite. I got my best results with: Sub level +5, hu lpf set to 80hz, -24 db/octave and the lpf on the amp barely on.

Try removing the One RCA on the amplifier that says OUTPUT and see if you get a better signal or any changes. Dont let the male end touch any metal. Lay it on a rag or teashirt temp while doing this/ Dont letit ground out is what I mean to state

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I’m not arguing with you necessarily either,

But you're still dodging the questions, and you still haven't seemed to wrap your head around that this is only the ratio between output impedance and impedance of your speaker. So first you're just flying blind trying to guess who is publishing honest numbers here and for some mysterious reason NOBODY is saying at what speaker impedance you get the number claimed or just coming out and publishing output impedance.

You still haven't expressed any reservations of running .5 ohm despite your precious damping factor dropping by far more than half every time you halve the impedance. Your big "gotcha" is that a big woofer has a high z-max (at which frequencies your "damping factor" would actually look very good even with a terribly high output impedance).

AND you're coming into this with the assumption that any modern car amplifier on the market doesn't have sufficiently low output impedance to accomplish adequate cone control, that this is something that needs to be considered beyond the design phase, or that the published numbers we get from various brands are giving us anything like good information with which to compare.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

And full bridge amps can do the same wattage @ .5, 1, and 2 ohms. Isn't that and advantage over half bridge amps?

That design is just lowering the rail voltage and I'm sort of on the fence as to whether that really is anything special or useful. I do not believe that is anything that would be exclusive to full bridge. What makes me question how great it is is that it is very old technology at this point and it hasn't been widely adopted in the industry.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

So I got home and finished rewiring the sub. I believe it's 2 ohm I'm not sure tho I think my dmm is messed up. Before I unwired it, I checked the impedance and it was reading around 1 ohm which doesn't make much sense. But anyways, it seems louder but the high frequency problem persists. Although I did manage to get it to be quite. I got my best results with: Sub level +5, hu lpf set to 80hz, -24 db/octave and the lpf on the amp barely on.

Sometimes DMM leads can go bad or where they plug into the DMM can not be making full contact. I’ve freaked out over a sub before, because my leads were so old they weren’t reading right, so check that. If your ohms change a bunch when you bend your DMM lead wires, that’s an indicator.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

But you're still dodging the questions, and you still haven't seemed to wrap your head around that this is only the ratio between output impedance and impedance of your speaker. So first you're just flying blind trying to guess who is publishing honest numbers here and for some mysterious reason NOBODY is saying at what speaker impedance you get the number claimed or just coming out and publishing output impedance.

You still haven't expressed any reservations of running .5 ohm despite your precious damping factor dropping by far more than half every time you halve the impedance. Your big "gotcha" is that a big woofer has a high z-max (at which frequencies your "damping factor" would actually look very good even with a terribly high output impedance).

AND you're coming into this with the assumption that any modern car amplifier on the market doesn't have sufficiently low output impedance to accomplish adequate cone control, that this is something that needs to be considered beyond the design phase, or that the published numbers we get from various brands are giving us anything like good information with which to compare.

I’ve seen the result in real life with damping factor, and so have some of my customers, and it’s with modern amps. I had a few people specifically not like the SIA due to poor musical performance, especially for the dudes who like super heavy lows (where damping factor makes a bigger difference IMO). Idk what you want me to explain, I feel like it all makes sense to me, and I’ve explained it enough to logically hold my position. I see the amplifier as just part of an electronic circuit in a car’s system, and how it acts within that total circuit changes how well the subwoofer is controlled, and too low damping factor seems to cause a situation where the amp can lose control of the subs more easily, especially on lows, where the amp losses control of the woofer and/or distorts the waveform. I’m just saying damping factor matters, to an extent, and it depends on your entire system’s dynamic, which is more complicated than just a single number. I’ve heard this with my own ears and had several customers complain of the same thing with these cheaper-made and big power amps. It’s not like I’m dictating amplifier market swings here, man. And if you wanna school me on more details about how it works, then do so! I’m always down to learn more, but I’m not in fairytale land here with my conclusions.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I’ve seen the result in real life with damping factor,

And I've asked you several times to tell us which amps you're comparing, how you did the comparison, and any other variables involved. Tell us which amps, the method of your testing, and how you have deduced that the variable making the difference is the output impedance of those amps?

If damping factor is important why would you even consider running .5 ohm?

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Correct, but he still hasn't bothered to just do a google search and take 10 minutes to learn what it even means. But I guess people who really care will buy an expensive amp and run it at .5 ohm for the damping factor.

You could explain it for everyone instead of being high and mighty.

Insist Buck does research, and Buck will learn.
Explain what most of this community doesn't understand, and we all learn.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You could explain it for everyone

I posted the quote from the Zed Audio manual that explains what it is, how it is calculated, and how that all goes out the window real world. It may or may not be in the part I cited but the manual also explains how to go about getting a very low output impedance when designing an amp and some reasons that the Far East class Ds have some issues getting a very low output impedance.

That's what is really baffling is that I posted the information right here in this thread and nobody seems to have taken the time to try to read and understand it.