Need Input on a 4-channel Amp

[boomer34 10+ year member]

I am looking for a 4-channel amp to push component speakers up front and coax speakers in back of my sierra 1500 truck.

As of now, I am leaning to the Infiniti Kappas for the speakers, so those are rated 90rms for the components and 75rms for the coax.

Wanting to stay under 250 on the amp.

Opinions on these amps:

-ROCKFORD Fosgate P400-4, $195 (only 50rms, so don't know if that is enough power)

-Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4, $175 (very little, so I can hide it, 75rms)

-Infinity Reference 475a, $138 (75rms)

-those rms numbers are based on 4ohms, not real sure the difference in 4 and 2...I'm new to this stuff.

Any help on the difference between those 2 RF amps?

Any other recommendations?

Click to read more...

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

one is the punch series and the other is the new line ,so dont know much about the mini full range amps.what i do know about full range amps is they usually dont sound very good.but does look like it may be better than the punch amp

 

[boomer34 10+ year member]

one is the punch series and the other is the new line ,so dont know much about the mini full range amps.what i do know about full range amps is they usually dont sound very good.but does look like it may be better than the punch amp

So what amp would you recommend for powering 4 door speakers?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

really depends on your budget

 

[boomer34 10+ year member]

budget is $300 for the amp roughly

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

my fosgate p400-4 did 78rms per channel into 4 ohms.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

i also have the pbr300x4 and it does 88 per channel into 4 ohms, it really is power full and efficient, i have it on my dads motorcycle. doesn't get hot either.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

sorry just read the whole thing the differance is the p400-4 is ab which i think has a smoother sound but the pbr300x4 is class d and has a "sharper" sound, personally i like the class d im using the t1000-4ad right now, and love it.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

also look at the alpine amps, i have always had good luck with the mrp-f300 it is relativity cheap also.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Boston Acoustics GT475 or Boston Acoustics GT4100

 

[boomer34 10+ year member]

How reliable are the quoted RMS figures on amps?

Because, I am figuring if the speakers I buy are 75 watt RMS, I need at amp with at least that RMS output....right?

 

[zako 10+ year member]

How reliable are the quoted RMS figures on amps?
Because, I am figuring if the speakers I buy are 75 watt RMS, I need at amp with at least that RMS output....right?

I will try to address some of your questions..

1. First of all, if your speakers have 2-3ohm impedance, the amplifier will provide a bit more power compared to 4ohm. In the best case scenario, an amplifier rated for 50watts at 4ohms, could provide twice as much with 2ohms.

2. The standard way of rating amplifier power at is 1%THD with 14.4 volt battery. If your car's voltage hoovers around 13V, then you will see less than rated voltage. And with the engine turned off, even less (maybe 2/3 of the rated). I know there are companies that use a more reasonable voltage or lower THD, but if you do a survey of all amplifiers sold online, you will probably find 14.4V at 1% THD. How do you know if the amplifier rating is done honestly? You don't know unless you measure the amplifier output with an oscilloscope. The other way to confirm the wattage ratings is to check if some third party has done a measurement. I really like pasmag.com and avtozvuk.com reviews because they always measure the RMS wattage. It is my belief that most amplifiers sold today do at least the rated wattage, except for some extremely cheap brands.. which means try to stay away from really cheap brands. Jensen, Boss, etc.

3. You don't have to match the speaker to an amplifier with exactly the same RMS wattage. I honestly don't know how speaker manufacturers come up with RMS ratings of their speakers. I have heard, the RMS ratings are the thermal ratings. However, mechanically speaking, some speakers will not take even half of RMS wattage unless you use a high enough high pass crossover frequency, and others can take twice their rated RMS wattage in stride. In the end, you should not worry too much if you end up powering a 50watt speaker with a 150watt RMS amplifier. Why? Do you play 0dB test tones on your speakers continuously? No. You probably play music, which is dynamic and nothing like synthetic tests. On most music records, peaks are at -8 to -10dB and are short lived. On badly recorded stuff, the peaks can come up to -5dB and again are short lived. The bottom line is that having too much power should not hurt. Having too little power could hurt.

4. Infinity speakers don't take a lot of wattage to get moving, specially considering that they're nominally 2-3ohm speakers. A decent quality 50watt amplifier should be able to drive them. People have recommended Alpine, Boston, Rockford, etc. all of those are fine. My preference is for some of newer Class D amplifiers, such as Alpine MRX & PDX, Kenwood, etc (very small, high efficiency, etc).

 

[boomer34 10+ year member]

Ok...so I think I have pretty much narrowed down my speaker setup, but now need to nail down which amp I need to power it.

I am heavily leaning towards going with:

Front Doors: JL Audio C5-650 components

Rear Doors: JL Audio C2-650X coax

What 4 channel amp would you recommend to push these speakers?

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

mb quart 4.125

 

[boomer34 10+ year member]

Any feedback on this amp:

JL Audio XD400/4