Need Help?

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

it has to be at least 90- 120A. with 0 gauge. you will not have to worry about current flow. with 4 gauge its a little iffy. ya never know how its gonna last

I would not consider 120A on 4ga OFC to be "a little iffy". That wire would handle that current all day, provided it's good, true 4ga.

 

[CrossoverOre 10+ year member]

Just curious if you even upgraded the ground strap for the batt of if your are still only rocking the factory. my 2 cents is quit ******* around and do the big 3 already then get back.

 

[AndrewHD 10+ year member]

Wow I didn't know your voltage is so low to begin with. Your amp shuts off because it is not designed to go much lower than 12volts. Looks like your alternator can't keep up

 

[Brandon9 10+ year member]

So are you thinking i should buy a new alternator and see if that helps out? But now its running about 13.7 volts so its getting better some how.

Wow I didn't know your voltage is so low to begin with. Your amp shuts off because it is not designed to go much lower than 12volts. Looks like your alternator can't keep up

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

So are you thinking i should buy a new alternator and see if that helps out? But now its running about 13.7 volts so its getting better some how.

Third time: where did you test that? With what? And when did you test?

 

[Brandon9 10+ year member]

Sorry but i got it from a volt meter on the battery in the trunk and that was yesterday

Third time: where did you test that? With what? And when did you test?

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Sorry but i got it from a volt meter on the battery in the trunk and that was yesterday

Ok, that's what I figured. Has that voltage meter been compared to a multimeter? Which voltage meter?

But you need to take readings from the front of your car. I think your issue is a bad connection somewhere, probably ground but possibly positive somewhere, in the back. No one in this thread can definitely say that it's your alternator not regulating voltage properly, since you haven't measured it there. I'm guessing it is fine, and it's something in the rear. You need to do more testing. Do you have a DMM? Where is your ground point? Do you have pictures of it? If not, take some pictures of your setup in the rear. But you need to eliminate your alternator as the problem first and foremost, so start doing some tests up there. Start at the source, work from there.

 

[Brandon9 10+ year member]

ok i will get some numbers from the front and the back and will compare them and let you know what the difference is. But could the amp be shutting off because of a bad ground on the amp or something like that?

Ok, that's what I figured. Has that voltage meter been compared to a multimeter? Which voltage meter?
But you need to take readings from the front of your car. I think your issue is a bad connection somewhere, probably ground but possibly positive somewhere, in the back. No one in this thread can definitely say that it's your alternator not regulating voltage properly, since you haven't measured it there. I'm guessing it is fine, and it's something in the rear. You need to do more testing. Do you have a DMM? Where is your ground point? Do you have pictures of it? If not, take some pictures of your setup in the rear. But you need to eliminate your alternator as the problem first and foremost, so start doing some tests up there. Start at the source, work from there.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

ok i will get some numbers from the front and the back and will compare them and let you know what the difference is. But could the amp be shutting off because of a bad ground on the amp or something like that?

Again, take some pictures. If you have a bad ground in the back somewhere (or anywhere for that matter), you're not going to get good voltage. So, yes. But the bad grounding point is more likely wherever you grounded it to your car.

 

[Brandon9 10+ year member]

http://i37.tinypic.com/2mk1l5.jpg

The single ground is the battery and the double ground is the 2 amps.

Again, take some pictures. If you have a bad ground in the back somewhere (or anywhere for that matter), you're not going to get good voltage. So, yes. But the bad grounding point is more likely wherever you grounded it to your car.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

http://i37.tinypic.com/2mk1l5.jpg
The single ground is the battery and the double ground is the 2 amps.

Double ground? The one with loom on it?

But that's not a great ground location. Did you sand the paint off, so it's got bare metal contact?

 

[Brandon9 10+ year member]

http://i37.tinypic.com/2mk1l5.jpg

 

---------- Post added at 03:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:42 PM ----------

 

[Brandon9 10+ year member]

The first one is the 2 amp grounds and i just added the battery ground. But yes i sanded the paint off so its metal contact

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

The first one is the 2 amp grounds and i just added the battery ground. But yes i sanded the paint off so its metal contact

Ok seen the second pic. You need to ground your amps to your battery, then get a better ground for your battery, almost definitely. But first do some testing up front so you can eliminate the rest of the vehicle as a problem.

 

[Brandon9 10+ year member]

Ok i will ground them to the battery. But i got the numbers again and it was only about .1 volt different from the front battery to the back battery

Ok seen the second pic. You need to ground your amps to your battery, then get a better ground for your battery, almost definitely. But first do some testing up front so you can eliminate the rest of the vehicle as a problem.