Need help with electrical system

yeah it is cheap insurance for low volting ur amp as well and they look really sharp.

you hook it up right at the amp and install it up front and get very accurate readings. good idea dude //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Replace your starting battery with a Kinetik HC1800 or larger, whatever fit in your existing battery holder.
Put a Kinetik HC 1400 in the rear.

As for alternator, get a 150 amp or better.

With this and the big 3 you can run that amp full tilt boogie without issue.

You can get cheaper batteries, but if I had the cash I would do exactly what I said above.

Someone else may have a better recommendation, but what I suggested will work fine.
WTF? for a 1500w system? A good battery and the Big 3 will be fine.

 
I've been meaning to pick up a meter myself, anyone selling? everyone concur that leeching it into the amp's power and ground wires is the best approach? Sorry for side question lol.

And yes. try to keep it 13 or above if you can. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I have set up a few 80's gm cars and trucks on 1900 watt systems, most had the 110 amp alt and all we had to do is the big 3 and add a HC1200 in back by your amp/amps. Voltage shouldnt dip below 12.7v as long as your underhood battery is in good shape and your alt is healthy which should be checked first. PR1M3R actually has the best layout although I would do twin hc1400's one under the hood one in back to keep the cells balanced (it is expensive however). A voltmeter is a very good idea. People will argue left and right about a balanced battery system but my old car (not mine anymore) has 4 HC Power 2000s (8 to 10 year old Kinetik 2000s put in between the years 2000 and 2001) powering 6000 watts RMS of memphis class AB amplifiers and they were still humpin right along at least until last year. Only alt it has is a 2xx amp Ohio Gen.

 
Are there any kits anyone would recommend for the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 AWG wire?
All I did was getting 15ft of wiring from KnuKonceptz, and 6 ring terminals. That's all you really need. Some people say to put a fuse between the ALT and battery, but if it doesn't come stock with a fuse, there is no need for one.

 
Got a couple more questions. I have a side post battery(Autolite 84) and have decided to buy new terminals for it since my other ones are stripped. I found one online and was wondering if it would fit on my Autolite 84 battery. Here is the link for the terminal.

http://www.goldstaraudio.com/installation/battery-terminals/stinger-spt55309.html

Also, I found some ring terminals for my 1/0 AWG wire I bought and was wondering if it mattered which one I got. Below is the link to both.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Wire-Ring-Terminals-Gold-1-0-Gauge-3-8-Connectors_W0QQitemZ190360753827QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c526296a3#ht_2190wt_1167

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Wire-Ring-Terminals-Gold-1-0-Gauge-1-4-Connectors_W0QQitemZ190360753865QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c526296c9#ht_2190wt_1167

 
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