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<blockquote data-quote="audiolife" data-source="post: 6615060" data-attributes="member: 541383"><p>I have set up a few 80's gm cars and trucks on 1900 watt systems, most had the 110 amp alt and all we had to do is the big 3 and add a HC1200 in back by your amp/amps. Voltage shouldnt dip below 12.7v as long as your underhood battery is in good shape and your alt is healthy which should be checked first. PR1M3R actually has the best layout although I would do twin hc1400's one under the hood one in back to keep the cells balanced (it is expensive however). A voltmeter is a very good idea. People will argue left and right about a balanced battery system but my old car (not mine anymore) has 4 HC Power 2000s (8 to 10 year old Kinetik 2000s put in between the years 2000 and 2001) powering 6000 watts RMS of memphis class AB amplifiers and they were still humpin right along at least until last year. Only alt it has is a 2xx amp Ohio Gen.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="audiolife, post: 6615060, member: 541383"] I have set up a few 80's gm cars and trucks on 1900 watt systems, most had the 110 amp alt and all we had to do is the big 3 and add a HC1200 in back by your amp/amps. Voltage shouldnt dip below 12.7v as long as your underhood battery is in good shape and your alt is healthy which should be checked first. PR1M3R actually has the best layout although I would do twin hc1400's one under the hood one in back to keep the cells balanced (it is expensive however). A voltmeter is a very good idea. People will argue left and right about a balanced battery system but my old car (not mine anymore) has 4 HC Power 2000s (8 to 10 year old Kinetik 2000s put in between the years 2000 and 2001) powering 6000 watts RMS of memphis class AB amplifiers and they were still humpin right along at least until last year. Only alt it has is a 2xx amp Ohio Gen. [/QUOTE]
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