Need help massive viltage drop!!!!!!!

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

Throw the capacitor in the garbage.

Why are you running 2 different sets of subs on 3 amps?

You should get a single 4ch amp to power you interior speakers and lose the 2 seperate ones that appear to be powering them. It's all very confusing the way it's written up.

What i'd do while using your existing stuff is ditch the memphis subs and 2 lanzar amps. Use the zapco for the re's and get a 4ch to power the interior speakers. Assuming of course all the ohms match up correctly.

 

[memphismonsta 10+ year member]

The lanzars power each of the 2 re audio comp 12's. im more than well aware if i cut out half of the **** in my car the voltage wont drop thats not what im trying to do im trying to figure out what i have to do to make it stop. the zapco is 750 watt rms not nearly powerful enough to power 1 re let alone 2 of em. I run 1 lanazar 1500 to 1 re another lanzar 1500 to 1 re.... 1 750 watts rms zapco amp to 2 memphis 250watt rms... and the amp i added for the highs was 250w kenwood that powers 2 rockford p16's( which ive removed because thats when the problems started happening. Hell why dont i just take every piece of it out my car then my voltage will be just fine ????? My question was why am i popping fuses when i wasnt popping them before and what is the best route to take to get the voltage to stop dropping High output alternator and new battery or could i try just adding a second battery. I will however upgrade the wiring to 1 0awg to the trunk and 4 gauge to each amplifier and upgrade grounds to 0awg as well. ill get it figured out thanks for all the help next step new wires and alternator.

 

[Wanacustomx 10+ year member]

Jesus! I have a feeling your jeep is a wiring mess...

You have 4 woofers (2 Memphis pr's, and 2 re's)

3 sub amps( 1 zapco, 2 Lanzar)

And a mids and highs amp...?! Your lucky your jeep ain't burnt down.. you need a minimum of 1 run both pos+ and neg- from front to back with atleast 1 big *** battery.. thank god for fuses.. sorry but be careful check and see what kinda amperage all the amps are pulling all together and get wire than can carry the current, as said earlier ditch the 4 gauge and get 0 gauge A LOT OF IT..

 

[memphismonsta 10+ year member]

i will definately do that but the 4 gauge wire i am running is rated for 150 amps ( i just cant find a 150amp fuse for my holder). at full volume im pulling approximately 120 amps but no more than that seeing as my car has no more than that and ive been running this for monthes with no fuses popping the problem occured when i added the fourth amp and the wiring is not a mess its neat and all color coded accordingly i have 2 one 2gauge to 4 4gauge distrubution blocks the 2 sets of speakers are stacked on top of each other like a wall and 3 amps are neatly bolted to the backs of the boxes the amp for highs is hidden under the rear seat where the stock amplifier used to be.

 

[memphismonsta 10+ year member]

I have an extra battery i can wire in the back as i have said multiple times but like ive asked will it help seeing as my alternator can barely keep up as is let alone charging another battery. This is so helpful i feel like im running in circles. i understand i need larger wires but this is absolutely not causing my voltage drop i ran for monthes perfectly everything went to **** when i added the fourth amplifier. Its all i good ill just do it all bigger wires bigger batter bigger alternator. thanks for all the input

 

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

i will definately do that but the 4 gauge wire i am running is rated for 150 amps ( i just cant find a 150amp fuse for my holder). at full volume im pulling approximately 120 amps but no more than that seeing as my car has no more than that and ive been running this for monthes with no fuses popping the problem occured when i added the fourth amp and the wiring is not a mess its neat and all color coded accordingly i have 2 one 2gauge to 4 4gauge distrubution blocks the 2 sets of speakers are stacked on top of each other like a wall and 3 amps are neatly bolted to the backs of the boxes the amp for highs is hidden under the rear seat where the stock amplifier used to be.

I want to see pictures.

 

[memphismonsta 10+ year member]

ive had over ten systems that consisted of 2 subs powered by 1 amp .... 4 interiors for mids and highs powered by 1 amp..... i was trying to do something stupid big ridiculous this time which i have never done the 4 subs and 3 ams slammed perfect for monthes i was super excited how awesome they sounded.... i went out and bought mids and highs and an amp last friday cause the bass is so crazy i cant hear any music and i thought it would give me a better sounding system overall .....thats when everything went to **** so i removed the new amplifier and am still pulling more amps than i was initially but this as i have found out was due to doing the big 3 and alllowing my amplifiers to pull more power they required as they were being choked by the small stock wiring ........ to make this story short I need bigger alternater extra battery and larger gauge wire . (and like i said i know the cap is useless but i like the voltmeter so it stays for now) thanks so much for everyones input on the topic.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

ive had over ten systems that consisted of 2 subs powered by 1 amp .... 4 interiors for mids and highs powered by 1 amp..... i was trying to do something stupid big ridiculous this time which i have never done the 4 subs and 3 ams slammed perfect for monthes i was super excited how awesome they sounded.... i went out and bought mids and highs and an amp last friday cause the bass is so crazy i cant hear any music and i thought it would give me a better sounding system overall .....thats when everything went to **** so i removed the new amplifier and am still pulling more amps than i was initially but this as i have found out was due to doing the big 3 and alllowing my amplifiers to pull more power they required as they were being choked by the small stock wiring ........ to make this story short I need bigger alternater extra battery and larger gauge wire . (and like i said i know the cap is useless but i like the voltmeter so it stays for now) thanks so much for everyones input on the topic.

I want some pictures as well. Seeing your setup will help us out a lot I think. I do believe you have way to much gear in there, and can sound much better, as well as draw less amperage, if you chopped down some equipment and put a pair of those subs in a good box. Either way, try to get some pictures for us, it will help either way, as it's a little confusing with so much wording.

What model Zapco do you have?

And get rid of the cap. Sell it to someone else for $40 or more, buy a voltage meter for $5 off Ebay, and you'll be better off.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

batt is dying/dead. Doesn't matter what voltage is at idle with system off. Have it load tested, you cooked some cells. FYI...**** dropping to 9/10/11v is NOT what a 12v batt wants to do.

Throw in the new batt and you'll fug that one up also, just a matter of time. Adding a highs amp made little to no diff, the batt was already on the way out....

x2 on pics, would love to see this conglomeration of **** //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 

[Austin175 10+ year member]

i agree with everyone suggestions. im shocked your jeep still runs.

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

i will definately do that but the 4 gauge wire i am running is rated for 150 amps ( i just cant find a 150amp fuse for my holder). at full volume im pulling approximately 120 amps but no more than that seeing as my car has no more than that and ive been running this for monthes with no fuses popping the problem occured when i added the fourth amp and the wiring is not a mess its neat and all color coded accordingly i have 2 one 2gauge to 4 4gauge distrubution blocks the 2 sets of speakers are stacked on top of each other like a wall and 3 amps are neatly bolted to the backs of the boxes the amp for highs is hidden under the rear seat where the stock amplifier used to be.

First where do you get the idea that your system is only pulling ~120A? 120A@14.4V is 1728W, you have two amps that are capable of producing 1000W@2Ω, a 750W, and you tried to add a 250W, that's 3000W it doesn't add up. If you ignore efficiency your amps are capable of pulling over 200A@14.4V, if you factor in 80% efficiency the amperage jumps to 260. You don't have the electrical or the wiring to support that kind of a pull on the system, and you should seriously consider removing some of it before the voltage drops fry your equipment.