Need help determining ideal setup for my car

Sigmag

Junior Member
Bare with me, as I'm not very proficient in this stuff... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

I first bought my audio system like 4 years ago, and hooked it up, and it worked.

I come to find out today while researching how to hook up more amps and subwoofers that you should try to match the RMS of your subwoofer with that of your Amp.

I've been sitting here for hours reading up on ohms and what not, but the main problem is that some of my hardware I have here has any technical information on it, so I can't really figure it out.

My current system is this....

Subwoofer:

Pioneer USA - TS-SW2541D - 10" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 1000 Watts Max. Power

Amp (currently bridged to sub):

GM-5200T (Archived) - Pioneer Europe

Capacitor:

15 Farad Cap from Power Acoustik (not sure on model or info)

Head Unit:

Pioneer USA - DEH-P5800MP - Dive into the New Deep Blue OEL Display available with many New Features

Speakers Rear and Front (No Amp):

The Bass Bin | Rockford Fosgate - T163C 6.5" 2-Way Full-Range Speaker (Not much info)

Rockford Fosgate - T163C

And I have this additional equipment, and I want to figure out the ideal setup for amps and such with what I have.

Amps:

Kenwood KAC-7495 (500W MAX)

Picture http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1631/4881/4077440021_large.jpg

Planet Audio TT2100

* 2 X 50 RMS 4 Ohm @ .04%THD

* 2 X 100 RMS 2 Ohm

* 1 X 200 Watts RMS Power (4 Ohm)

* Signal To Noise Ratio 102 dB

* Frequency Response 20 Hz to 250Hz

* Tri Mode Capability

* Line Out with Low/High Pass Crossover

* Switchable Input Sensitivity 100mV-2V or 2V-8V

* Built-In Continuously Variable Low Pass Crossover 12 dB/Octave

* Continuously Variable Bass Boost 0-18 dB

* Chrome Plated Connector

* Dimensions 9-3/4" (L) x 2-1/4" (H) x 11-3/4" (W)

Planet Audio TT260

* 2 X 30 RMS 4 Ohm @ .04%THD

* 2 X 60 RMS 2 Ohm

* 1 X 120 Watts RMS Power (4 Ohm)

* Signal To Noise Ratio 102 dB

* Frequency Response 20 Hz to 250Hz

* Tri Mode Capability

* Line Out with Low/High Pass Crossover

* Switchable Input Sensitivity 100mV-2V or 2V-8V

* Built-In Continuously Variable Low Pass Crossover 12 dB/Octave

* Continuously Variable Bass Boost 0-18 dB

* Chrome Plated Connector

* Dimensions 7-3/4" (L) x 2-1/4" (H) x 11-3/4" (W)

Subwoofers:

2x Cerwin-Vega HED-12SVC

Cerwin-Vega HED-12SVC 12" Component Subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

The Kenwood was hooked up to both Cerwin-Vega subs and the 2 planet audio were powering the speakers.

What I would like to know is how I can effectively merge all this equipment and use anything and everything I can without making my system explode. If there is a way to use everything, I don't mind buying a second battery, which the car battery is tiny currently as I drive a Honda del sol.

Thanks so much in advance!

 
i gotta say this is a hard one...getting the subs to sound clean and in tune is gonna be hard since one is a shallow mount. It doesnt really seem like u have enough power to push all subs evenly w/o over/under powering them. you may be better off just selling everything but the headunit and door speakers and just get a new amp and some new subs or sub... it may look a bit cleaner too. its just my opinion tho

 
It doesn't have to be pretty really, I'm not looking to show this off to anyone, just trying to make do with what I have.

Basically I just need help figuring out if between the 2 current setups, can one better setup can be made?

 
Ok, and just because I don't really know much about the electrical part of this, will that setup damage the hardware or just not sound it's best? And if I did put all that stuff in the car I would need a 2nd battery right?

 
as long as your subs and speakers arent being over/under powered too much youll be fine as far as hardware goes. (meaning that your not giving the subs too much or too little power). Im not sure about shallow mount frequency response but the box/boxes would have to be built to the same tuning frequency in order to sound good. You may not have to mess with a second battery since youre not pushing a ridiculous amount of power. But if you do see any voltage loss the cheapest and safest thing to do would be to do the big 3 to your alternator. which is usually recommended before putting in a second battery

 
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Sigmag

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