Need help before i blow another set of P3D2 12's

I would guess TS puts more $ into the development of the product than most of the brands you listed. No just standard build house products

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I would guess TS puts more $ into the development of the product than most of the brands you listed. No just standard build house products

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idk man., they only have 1 sub.. i wouldn't doubt if it's just a copy of others with diff cone and basket.. like i said they sure look great., if they were $60 less i woulda tried it..

 
I would guess TS puts more $ into the development of the product than most of the brands you listed. No just standard build house products

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You say that why? Wolfram uses the same boards as TS... Simple build house products.

 
I'm getting the 2500.1D, it's rated at 1x1250W RMS. I'm not a fan of that Orion Vid... It's a clamp test that doesn't show Ohm load and the voltage was a tad high at 14.8... Mine will be at a stable ohm load and voltage.
yeah so that mean amp was actually doing more power than that good maybe they are doing more than rated.. just don't know how dependable they are until a yr passes and 30 peeps come here to complain about them like they started doing about hifonics this yr..

 
You say that why? Wolfram uses the same boards as TS... Simple build house products.
I know the amps share boards. Guess was based on them only having 1 sub line. Maybe it was wishful thinking that they were different.

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If $$$ was an issue I'd do a pair of E-12 sundowns on a CAB at 1 ohm in a ported box... it's right at the edge of most cars electrical on music and usually with just the big 3 and a battery upgrade it is sufficient... get a box built and tuned to your tastes... those E's won't disappoint on that amp... that's what I'd do if it was my ride... cheap, strong and simple... IMHO too many guys get hung up on DYNO videos and hype... I used the CABs and got nothing but good things to say... the E's are one of the best starter subs around... ha... starter subs indeed!..

 
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I know the amps share boards. Guess was based on them only having 1 sub line. Maybe it was wishful thinking that they were different.

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They may have only 1 line Subs for multiple reasons.. Probably the biggest reason is there are a TON of players in the Subwoofer market, much more than the amp market. Could be simple economics of the investment not being worth it...

 
also look at fi alpha and american bass xfl with about 1k-1500 rms these are subs that maybe louder in right box than 2 p3's.. I FEEL SURE THAT 4 CHANNEL DON'T HAVE SS FILTER., U NEED THAT WITH ALL PREFAB BOXES cause they tuned real high say 45hz and when u play bass below say 40hz thats y subs mess up.. i did that yrs ago with orion xtrs in orion box it was tuned at 50hz amp only had 25hz ss filter which is what orion amps have too so i'd go another way on the amp and subs.. if u think u wanta try 1 good sub let us know we'll show u some amps.. or look at twisted sounds amps on ssa audio.com the 1.3k does over 1500..
While this post seems more illiterate than Papermaker's current offerings, it's the fist one on the right track.

If OP is breaking triple joints it isn't "clipping" and his answer isn't more power, it's a properly designed box and/or correct use of HPF.

 
If $$$ was an issue I'd do a pair of E-12 sundowns on a CAB at 1 ohm in a ported box... it's right at the edge of most cars electrical on music and usually with just the big 3 and a battery upgrade it is sufficient... get a box built and tuned to your tastes... those E's won't disappoint on that amp... that's what I'd do if it was my ride... cheap, strong and simple... IMHO too many guys get hung up on DYNO videos and hype... I used the CABs and got nothing but good things to say... the E's are one of the best starter subs around... ha... starter subs indeed!..
How reliable are CAB amps? I need a setup that will perform at a volume much higher than what I can possibly listen to on a daily basis, like half volume at most.

I was also thinking of going with 2 American Bass XD 1244 and the TS 1.3 at 1ohm which is much less expensive than 2 AB XFL's/TS 1.8 at .5 ohm

Also, the amount of amperage that the amp pulls to run at different levels will tell you how big of a battery/alternator upgrade is needed right? I have a 140 amp alternator and a blockshaker 1050 battery mounted in the trunk.

 
also blank just tested cobalt 2500.1 didn't do rated power.. just know good ported box will take up whole trunk and if u block trunk and bass can't get into cabin because box is blocking it it won't be as loud as u want.. u may need to fire subs forward and to do that u have to seal off everything every gap and hole in rear deck.. guy here won't world champion belt in under 2500watt class (for real) with civic but he did lot of work on that car.. search civic on here u will find his build log very long, should have pics...

 
How reliable are CAB amps? I need a setup that will perform at a volume much higher than what I can possibly listen to on a daily basis, like half volume at most... I had no problems with my cabs and I had them at 4 ohm strapped, 1ohm strapped, 1 ohm mono and .67 mono... I'm a fan... lol
I was also thinking of going with 2 American Bass XD 1244 and the TS 1.3 at 1ohm which is much less expensive than 2 AB XFL's/TS 1.8 at .5 ohm

Also, the amount of amperage that the amp pulls to run at different levels will tell you how big of a battery/alternator upgrade is needed right? I have a 140 amp alternator and a blockshaker 1050 battery mounted in the trunk.
That's a pretty tall order to get a setup that will be more than you can listen to at half volume... lol... sounds like you best look into around 8k and a sweet set of 15's... (zv5's)... of course it'll be normal after 5-8 months and you'll be looking to upgrade... so you better allocate $1500- $2500 towards your electrical... best get it up to par before you start upgrading... it's NEVER enough... loud at 1/2 volume huh?... I guess that's subjective... what do expect from an under 2k setup?... I wonder

 
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