Need guidance: Ford Raptor build

[Mental]

The recommendations that have been made are great. Why don't you just install yourself?

I don't have the necessary woodworking tools to fabricate good fiberboard creations. Also, my lack of experience deters me. I have some killer ideas though, so I'd rather find a trusted a craftsman to build it for me. Great question though.

Maybe I could find someone to build and ship my sub box? It'd be an intricate build and I would want the finished product glassed at a pro boat shop to really ensure tightness and moisture resistance...

I have no idea what equipment you mean?
If you are talking about what mylow said its because thats his suggestion.

If you would like a good sound system you have to research what you like.

I dont know if you wanna keep your stock headunit or have a double din.

If your ok with single dins then id recommend pioneer 80prs, clarion cz702 so you can go active or just have a very good eq.

for the front speakers go with hertz brand, or look on this forum for popular speakers. My highly rated speakers i love are the jbl p660c or db drive p3 6k.

Back speakers just get some good full range or mids. Soundqubed 6.5 mids are good.

id recommend putting them active if possible.

As far as subs what are you looking for? Some deep bass or something that blends?

Check out the first two posts... It's all in there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif If you feel like there is a better quality component than what mylows10 has already posted, then please contribute your opinion. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Im in the wrong profession get it while you can nice job!

Depends, Ry. I'm 37 and watching the opportunity for having a family fly by. I'm trading the dreams of a paid off house and a couple of killer vehicles for having a family. My friends have nicknamed me "Yoda" because I pop in their lives for a few minutes and leave to a far and distant galaxy. The few moments I have off are spent doing chores. I have more interaction with the characters in GTAV than I do with real people right now, lol. So, yeah, definitely has its drawbacks.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

Depends, Ry. I'm 37 and watching the opportunity for having a family fly by. I'm trading the dreams of a paid off house and a couple of killer vehicles for having a family. My friends have nicknamed me "Yoda" because I pop in their lives for a few minutes and leave to a far and distant galaxy. The few moments I have off are spent doing chores. I have more interaction with the characters in GTAV than I do with real people right now, lol. So, yeah, definitely has its drawbacks.

Your an assistant or certain position on the rig?

I do CNC Machining mainly couplings/top subs/bottom subs/upper subs/outer barrels/etc... for the rigs.

Either gotta love your half and half shift, it gets you a nice check coming home.

 

[Mental]

Question:

For a sub box mounted under the full-length rear seat, what would sound the best...

Down-Firing non-ported

Down-Firing ported

Up-Firing non-ported

Up-Firing ported

The cleanest design I've seen are these dimensions:

However, this was only built for one sub, so it only spans half of the truck. It will ultimately be at least twice as long. I'll post an update to the length later.

This is how it ends up looking:

Preferred are a couple of plexi windows. Unless this hurts sound quality. Does it?

 

[Mental]

Your an assistant or certain position on the rig?
I do CNC Machining mainly couplings/top subs/bottom subs/upper subs/outer barrels/etc... for the rigs.

Either gotta love your half and half shift, it gets you a nice check coming home.

That's killer to have access to that type of equipment. Tons of stuff you can fab for your own special projects.

To answer your question though, neither. I deliver fuel to the fracs and rigs. We make more than the rig hands, but our schedule is way more brutal.

 

[CheЯRyMan]

Ive built my share of under seat enclosures and most of your questions answer themselves. Id stay away from shallow mount subs go with 2-8's firing forward if you fire down you need room for excursion you lose volume which is your number 1 enemy with these builds. Sealed vs ported again comes down to volume Id go 2-8's sealed or 1-8 ported if the math supports the suggestion. These are just ideas Im spitting out I have no way of being able to back this up until I do the math on the enclosure and find out the parameters of the sub you choose. Windows are no problem.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You could do a few of these ported

SW6.5 | DD Audio

 

[CheЯRyMan]

Your volume based on that drawing is .71 cubic ft. You can run a 8" sub ported in this space but I would not sealed is your best option.

 

[04silverz 10+ year member]

Willing to do a seat lift for more airspace?

Really that's a big budget split too

Do you really need a back seat? Or willing to do a center console box? Those new idmax is what I'd be looking at if I had the coin. Or if you really want under seat, is the shallow idq out yet? I can't remember

 

[Mental]

CheRRyMan, You're the ****. If I raise the seat by 2 1/2", how much air volume would we have then? 2 1/2" rear seat raise kit

Great questions, Silverz. Under the rear seat is as far as I'm willing to go on this truck. Hopefully with a 2 1/2" lift I'll be able to run a pair of forward firing idmax 10s. After doing some research, I'd have splaudio re-do the voicecoils, as that's the idmax's weakest link.

Great suggestions guys. Really love the feedback!

 

[Mental]

I just measured and the correct length is going to be about 54 1/2"

 

[CheЯRyMan]

CheRRyMan, You're the ****.

Im trying to figure out if your explicative is good or bad LOL Based on a 2" seat lift (l used 2 instead of 2.5 for some wiggle room) and 54"long (first calculation used 17.625 length provided in your drawing)

you would have 2.95^ft. I would use Lexan sides and the subs mounted in each end near the windows. Every time you open the door you would be able to see the side profile of the sub. Ive never seen that before in a under seat enclosure.

 

[Mental]

Im trying to figure out if your explicative is good or bad LOL Based on a 2" seat lift (l used 2 instead of 2.5 for some wiggle room) and 54"long (first calculation used 17.625 length provided in your drawing)

you would have 2.95^ft. I would use Lexan sides and the subs mounted in each end near the windows. Every time you open the door you would be able to see the side profile of the sub. Ive never seen that before in a under seat enclosure.

Good brotha, lol! The expletive is good. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Do you think this is enough volume for 12's, or is it not enough airspace?

For now, let's say we'll be using idmax subs with reworked voicecoils by splaudio... Unless something better gets suggested..

The Lexan sides is an awesome idea. If the sides curve towards the front with the seats (on the front corners), and the box has a built in curve, would it be possible to curve Lexan so that shows off the internals throughout that front corner and sides?

Is building LEDs into the inside of the box, that auto-dims with the interior doorlights possible? Or will the vibration generated from the subs be too much of an issue?

Thanks so much CheRRyMan. Check your inbox too, when you get an chance.

 

[CheЯRyMan]

Im concerned about the mounting depth for a 12 and the slope of the angle in the box top but a accurate drawing can shed light on the mounting depth. Lexan can be heat bent get it too hot and it causes bubbles and scorching but Ive bent .25 inch before Ive never tried bending .5 or .75 it would look good but there would be no benefit from it as all the basket views would be from the side. You can still have a joined 90 degree glass corner if bending is ruled out. The vibration is not a factor for the lights solder joints would be more likely to fail if done incorrect The light above the sliding back glass can be tapped into for your timed door delay for the Leds power source but would only dim if that light had a auto dimmed feature.

 

[04silverz 10+ year member]

If referencing the v3 idmax, I've only had one issue with blowing one and it was completely my fault. I wouldn't worry about needing to replace coil. I ran a pair on an Orion 2500d for a while and even ran one at 2 ohm off that amp which I think was like 1700 watts

Some say you need as little as 5 or 600 watts to reach max excursion but I prefer mine around 1000-1200. I've had at least four or five different set ups with them in the 10 and 12. I love that sub.

When I posted I was referring to the new v4 though. I can't give any opinion on it other than I'd own at least two if I had spare cash right now.

With the v3, I don't know a pair of 12s would fit under the seat even lifted. It's a deep sub.

Best setup I had was a pair of 12 ported at like 2.25 ish per sub at I think 32 hz

My last setup was single 12, sealed and it's pretty solid. I'm considering going to dual 12s sealed here in near future