Need design help for hdc315

[trappin859 10+ year member]

So, as the title states, I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out the best way to go for this sub. Now I know AQ reccomends tuning between 36-40hz, but what I'm having problems with is how many net cubes would be optimal? I'm thinking 3.5cubes net tuned to 38hz. Good?

Amp will be an AQ2200

Wiring is Knu Flex 0/1ga with proper fusing

This will be going into the trunk of a 2001 monte carlo, so I've got a good amount of space to work with, but not as much as I'd like lol. Having one box built already by FisherCustoms(awesome build quality btw) with the specs of 4.5cubes @ 38hz just happened to be a little too big to fit in my trunk:crap:, but that was my **** up all the way. I believe the measurements were roughly 33"w 17"h 22"d; so if anyone has any input as to how I could possibly wedge the box in there without taking apart my car I'd greatly appreciate it, as it would save me from having to drop more $$ lol.

Thanks in advance for all replies.

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[trappin859 10+ year member]

Would this work for my application?

W: 32"

H: 17"

D: 17"

Port width: 3"

Port length: 13.25"

sq. port area: 46.5

box volume: 3.7cu. ft.

tuning freq.: 37hz

In addition the enclosure would be double baffled in the front and 3/4" mdf will be the material. Would I need additional bracing?

Used RE's ported box calculator as a guide.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

I would go with 4cubes @ 38Hz with 64^2 of port area if you can fit it. I've done a bunch of boxes for HDC's and 4 - 4 1/2cubes is what seems to work best. I've tried them in 3 cubes and that was too small, so not sure how much better 3.5 would be. Go for the biggest you can make fit.

If you listen mostly to new rap and C&S stuff then consider tuning to 35Hz, otherwise 38Hz works well for daily...

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

the box you linked to won't even fit a 15" sub and it's only 1.75cubes with no port area...

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Bring the car to me and I'll make it fit...

 

[trappin859 10+ year member]

the box you linked to won't even fit a 15" sub and it's only 1.75cubes with no port area...

Yeah, it reset all of the measurements when I linked it lol sorry. I put the measurements in my second post.

 

[trappin859 10+ year member]

Bring the car to me and I'll make it fit...

Little too far of a trip for me lol, but thanks for the offer. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

32"W x 24"D x 17"H 5.5" port width

Those are the exact measurements of the box that is too big. The depth is the main problem so I'd probably have to take away 4" or so in order to get it in there.

 

[trappin859 10+ year member]

W: 33"

H: 17"

D: 19"

Port width: 4"

Port length1: 14.25"

Port length2: 7"

sq. port area: 62

box volume: 3.9cu. ft.

tuning freq.: 35hz

That's pretty much as big as I can go I'm afraid. Unless someone that has experience with monte carlos can chime in with the max dimensions?

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

I say 3.5 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

tune a little higher and you'll gain some box volume as the port will be shorter/smaller

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Bring the car to me and I'll make it fit...

You will, but your box will have some shag carpet mysteriously added to it too. Mike did a box for me with your same setup my 300M that's 4.25 @ 38.

So is your issue with the entry of the box? Mine wasn't a direct fit, but after removing the rubber weatherstrip, and a little effort, it got in. Not sure if it's getting out, but it got in.

 

[trappin859 10+ year member]

You will, but your box will have some shag carpet mysteriously added to it too. Mike did a box for me with your same setup my 300M that's 4.25 @ 38.
So is your issue with the entry of the box? Mine wasn't a direct fit, but after removing the rubber weatherstrip, and a little effort, it got in. Not sure if it's getting out, but it got in.

Yeah, the entry angle is too steep, and the main hang-ups are with the weather stripping like you mentioned, and the bottom(hoop) that the trunk latch connects to. I'd say if the trunk opening was a couple inches taller it would go in with minimal effort.

Would there be any issue with leaking if I were to temporarily remove the stripping for the trunk? And what would be the best adhesive to use to put it back if I were to do so?

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, the entry angle is too steep, and the main hang-ups are with the weather stripping like you mentioned, and the bottom(hoop) that the trunk latch connects to. I'd say if the trunk opening was a couple inches taller it would go in with minimal effort.
Would there be any issue with leaking if I were to temporarily remove the stripping for the trunk? And what would be the best adhesive to use to put it back if I were to do so?

Mine came right off. It's just a rubber piece that goes all the way around. We had to bend the metal a little after taking it off. Just bend it back straight and put the rubber seal back around. That was how mine was. It didn't have any adhesive. You may need 2 people for this. One inside the car and one outside.

 

[trappin859 10+ year member]

Mine came right off. It's just a rubber piece that goes all the way around. We had to bend the metal a little after taking it off. Just bend it back straight and put the rubber seal back around. That was how mine was. It didn't have any adhesive. You may need 2 people for this. One inside the car and one outside.

Sounds good. What would be the purpose of the second person? To help pull the box while I push from the outside?

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Sounds good. What would be the purpose of the second person? To help pull the box while I push from the outside?

Exactly. I also recall I had to remove my trunk thing as well. The little loop you mentioned that catches the latch. Just take a marker or something and draw around it to make sure you place it back correctly.