need basics on ported 12 enclosure, help:)

86GT5ohHO
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ok i have some cheap'o performance teknique 12" sub ICBM-5742W model if anyone has heard of these and i have a jbl bp600 mono amp to push it. currently its in a RIT sealed box, it sounds crappy. also this is a dual v.c. sub 4+4ohm wired in paralell. i want to know how to make this box ported or how to build a single ported box to get the most bass i can out of this. i got this sub since it is rated at 600w rms and anything less the jbl cooks the coil. its ineffecient but for 59bucks hey what do u expect right. so i just need to know where i can put a port and where i cant. i have 2 of these same boxs. some one cut a slot in the back of one. that one sound horrible, can i do something with it?

 
you can't just cut a hole in the box and call it ported you have to actually add length to the port and the length of the port determines the tuning of the box and the deminsions of the box depend on how much airspace there is before basket displacement so if you could get a design for a ported box and build it or i think you could figure it out your self and where the port is is just determine by the plan really its all up to you but i've always heard iot is better to have the port on the opposite side of the driver side unless you have a slot port and im not sure what you mean by anything less than the jl will fry the vc

 
no it will cook the coil even turned down half way the bp600 is one powerfull amp. distortion tears stuff and thats how most subs are blown....by under powering them and trying to get more outa the sub, this i know. but this amp u will smell the coil cooking. either way the sub i have handles it fine. so i probably cant reconstruct one of these boxs to suit my needs for a slot ported box? well i have a bunch of left over cabinet material its particle or m.d. board. given the fact my box is 15.5"W x 13 1/4H x 14"D and and just barely fits in the trunk of my 86 gt hatchback mustang im not sure what box plan would be best? any ideas i need to stay within 15" deep and 13 1/4 height or i will have issues

 
no it will cook the coil even turned down half way the bp600 is one powerfull amp. distortion tears stuff and thats how most subs are blown....by under powering them and trying to get more outa the sub, this i know. but this amp u will smell the coil cooking. either way the sub i have handles it fine. so i probably cant reconstruct one of these boxs to suit my needs for a slot ported box? well i have a bunch of left over cabinet material its particle or m.d. board. given the fact my box is 15.5"W x 13 1/4H x 14"D and and just barely fits in the trunk of my 86 gt hatchback mustang im not sure what box plan would be best? any ideas i need to stay within 15" deep and 13 1/4 height or i will have issues
I'll work on something for you. But just so you know, YOU are in complete control of how much power the amp puts out. Setting your gains correctly and being easy on the volume will keep even very low powered subs alive on high powered amps. I ran a 400rms sub off of an amp that did over 900rms and I never fried the coil because I kept the volume within limits.

 
i would like to go with a design like this one below, but not exactly these demensions . and i have no idea how much the differance in volume of the box matters for optimal sound. u guys have the knowledge i just build stuff. give me numbers and ill make it today

175cubes32hz26sqin2rg.th.png


 
I'll work on something for you. But just so you know, YOU are in complete control of how much power the amp puts out. Setting your gains correctly and being easy on the volume will keep even very low powered subs alive on high powered amps. I ran a 400rms sub off of an amp that did over 900rms and I never fried the coil because I kept the volume within limits.
i almost wonder if the amp is faulty, it turns down but not much, and it still wants to cook and low rated sub.im just on a buget wantting big sound,lol. my deck kinda sucks it doesnt give me the control i want. it has a high or low sub level control, but its hard to match the level of the sub with the reg speakers since its a rear sub out only deck

 
4zwn4mf.png


Tell me if those dimensions are good for you. Without going any wider, that's as big as it's going to get. It's about 1.5 cubic feet tuned to 34hz. I have no idea how that sub will like it since the T/S parameters for those subs don't exist I guess. All I could find was a bunch of useless specs like peak power ratings and magnet size.

The amp isn't faulty; your gains are not set correctly if the sub isn't blending well.

 
4zwn4mf.png

Tell me if those dimensions are good for you. Without going any wider, that's as big as it's going to get. It's about 1.5 cubic feet tuned to 34hz. I have no idea how that sub will like it since the T/S parameters for those subs don't exist I guess. All I could find was a bunch of useless specs like peak power ratings and magnet size.

The amp isn't faulty; your gains are not set correctly if the sub isn't blending well.
that sweet, that perfect! wow. my wood i have is 3/4 and 1/2 thick stuff. can i use both thickness or will it cause issues?i was thinking using the thinner stuff for the sides or something. let me know. gotcha on the sub thing, yeah i need a better deck

 
what size will the port peices be? and at 34hz, is that good or is that just ok? thats pretty low i know that. took electronics back in the day. but how audible is 34 compared to 20hz or say 45hz. seem i dont know the range thats most stuff will hit at

 
my top and bottoms are cut 26x14 so far, so my sides should be 14W x 11 3/4H right? and my back peice should be 24 3/4w x 11 3/4H and the front depending on the port size

 
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86GT5ohHO

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