need advice on building me a comp set from madisound,part express,etc

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

I have these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_256&products_id=846&osCsid=40a1d5d19e89c4a45d4a010f2ba03953 and for the $$, YOU CAN'T BEAT THEM.

I'm using a set of PG Elite tweets for now, but I'm also looking into these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_324&products_id=1466&osCsid=707c38ae55b73f48501bdb4fd049ce17 or these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_250&products_id=633&osCsid=29844a0be6eb23a26e92fb8f207d5ab0 to replaced them.

All in all, that's $128 plus S&H ~$11, so $140 and enough left over for a decent xover to go active with them.

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

Your existing amplifier doesn't have a crossover flexible enough to do what you want. However, an external electronic crossover can be had for relatively cheap, or you can buy a headunit that is active capable. But for the sake of price, I would go with an external crossover unless you intended on buying a new headunit/new amplifier anyways.
It does take a lot of reading to really understand what you would be diving into. Before you even think about buying anything, you should spend a few days reading what exactly it means to go "active," and what the pros and cons are.

thanks man, im gonna do lots of research before making any decisions.

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

I have these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_256&products_id=846&osCsid=40a1d5d19e89c4a45d4a010f2ba03953 and for the $$, YOU CAN'T BEAT THEM.
I'm using a set of PG Elite tweets for now, but I'm also looking into these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_324&products_id=1466&osCsid=707c38ae55b73f48501bdb4fd049ce17 or these https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_250&products_id=633&osCsid=29844a0be6eb23a26e92fb8f207d5ab0 to replaced them.

All in all, that's $128 plus S&H ~$11, so $140 and enough left over for a decent xover to go active with them.

looks nice man, they sound pretty good i bet. Can u or anyone give me some kind of idea as far a what kind of xover to be looking for?

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

are these some good mids?

Peerless HDS Nomex 6.5" Woofer Speaker HDS-164 Vifa NEW - eBay (item 110532182535 end time Jul-11-10 08:51:06 PDT)

 

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

The only downside to those is that they're 8 ohm mids and not 4 ohms.

A 3 way active xover like this NEW! 3-Way Electronic Amp Crossover w/ Sub In/Out CR79G - eBay (item 390214692342 end time Jul-30-10 01:58:32 PDT) would work. Now that is what we would call an El Cheapo xover.

This AUDIOPIPE 3-WAY ELECTRONIC CROSSOVER W/BASS KNOB XV-3 - eBay (item 350372335419 end time Jul-13-10 16:58:33 PDT) would be a bit better, I don't have any 1st hand experience w/AudioPipe, but from what I've seen on forums, people like them.

If I were on a budget I'd look at this one LANZAR VIBEX6 3-Way Electronic Crossover Car Sub Bass - eBay (item 350372739106 end time Jul-15-10 14:10:00 PDT)

Enough w/the cheap stuff now. I'd look at this NEW Clarion MCD360 3-way Electronic Crossover System - eBay (item 390203876427 end time Jul-31-10 17:43:30 PDT) if you have the money, or step up to the real big boys league with DQX - AUDIO CONTROL DIGITAL EQUALIZER/CROSSOVER YELLOW - eBay (item 130404063657 end time Jul-25-10 16:36:41 PDT) .

Be done w/it all and need not worry about what other plans that might show up down the road with this bad boy DQXS - AUDIO CONTROL DIGITAL EQUALIZER CROSSOVER SILVER - eBay (item 110551750318 end time Jul-25-10 16:01:47 PDT) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'll have to get a DQX someday, but for now the amp and HU I have can split up the freqs for me to run a 2 way active front end. I already use a DQS.

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

The only downside to those is that they're 8 ohm mids and not 4 ohms.
A 3 way active xover like this NEW! 3-Way Electronic Amp Crossover w/ Sub In/Out CR79G - eBay (item 390214692342 end time Jul-30-10 01:58:32 PDT) would work. Now that is what we would call an El Cheapo xover.

This AUDIOPIPE 3-WAY ELECTRONIC CROSSOVER W/BASS KNOB XV-3 - eBay (item 350372335419 end time Jul-13-10 16:58:33 PDT) would be a bit better, I don't have any 1st hand experience w/AudioPipe, but from what I've seen on forums, people like them.

If I were on a budget I'd look at this one LANZAR VIBEX6 3-Way Electronic Crossover Car Sub Bass - eBay (item 350372739106 end time Jul-15-10 14:10:00 PDT)

Enough w/the cheap stuff now. I'd look at this NEW Clarion MCD360 3-way Electronic Crossover System - eBay (item 390203876427 end time Jul-31-10 17:43:30 PDT) if you have the money, or step up to the real big boys league with DQX - AUDIO CONTROL DIGITAL EQUALIZER/CROSSOVER YELLOW - eBay (item 130404063657 end time Jul-25-10 16:36:41 PDT) .

Be done w/it all and need not worry about what other plans that might show up down the road with this bad boy DQXS - AUDIO CONTROL DIGITAL EQUALIZER CROSSOVER SILVER - eBay (item 110551750318 end time Jul-25-10 16:01:47 PDT) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'll have to get a DQX someday, but for now the amp and HU I have can split up the freqs for me to run a 2 way active front end. I already use a DQS.

thanks alot man for takin the time to help me out. I really appreciate it. Im sure i can afford something like that Clarion with no problem. Those are the type of oxvers i use to run back in the day when i first got into this audio stuff. I could still just run my sub off the h/u xover right. No need to run it through the electronic xover is there?

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

Or you could just get an active capable radio for half the price of those AudioControl units, even less if you're willing to buy used.

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

Or you could just get an active capable radio for half the price of those AudioControl units, even less if you're willing to buy used.

sound even better. Know of any double din units that are active capable?

 

[DarkScorpion 10+ year member]

The only downside to those is that they're 8 ohm mids and not 4 ohms.

That alone is not a down side, at all. People should really get out of this mind set...

sound even better. Know of any double din units that are active capable?

There aren't any Navi/DVD active capable double-din units out that I know of - you would need an external processor. There just isn't a market big enough for manufacturers to make double-din, active capable navi's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

That alone is not a down side, at all. People should really get out of this mind set...


There aren't any Navi/DVD active capable double-din units out that I know of - you would need an external processor. There just isn't a market big enough for manufacturers to make double-din, active capable navi's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

so these mids should be ok?

 

[DarkScorpion 10+ year member]

so these mids should be ok?

I don't have any personal experience with them, but there was quite a bit of talk when they first came out. If you google "830875," you'll be able to find lots of threads on DIYAudio and DIYMA.

Here's a quick link: site:diymobileaudio.com 830875 - Google Search

 

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

Sorry, but I don't suffer from that mind set. I used 8 ohm tweets at one point. It's only a 3dB drop power wise, most people want the most they can get from their amp and 4 ohm would do that over the 8 ohm, my bad for assuming that.

 

[DarkScorpion 10+ year member]

Sorry, but I don't suffer from that mind set. I used 8 ohm tweets at one point. It's only a 3dB drop power wise, most people want the most they can get from their amp and 4 ohm would do that over the 8 ohm, my bad for assuming that.

Getting the most out of your amp doesn't always mean getting the most amount of power. When comparing 4ohm to 8ohm drivers, it's the efficiency that you need to be mindful of along side the other specs, not power handling or impedance alone.

Obviously, if the 8ohm driver has the same efficiency as a 4ohm driver (and they are the same model), then the 4ohm driver would get louder - you are correct in that aspect. However, the most common scenario is quite the opposite: 8ohm drivers usually are much more efficient, and require much less power for the same SPL. Here's a good read on 8ohm vs. 4ohm speakers.

The mindset that most people are in is that since an amplifier will not provide as much power at 8ohm than it can at 4ohms, then the speakers will not play as loud. That's simply not true; there are other factors that decide it's output.