Need advice for a perfect cable install, on a board

[Phuncz]

After reading on this forum, I can conclude there is a seriously high level of knowledge here. I'll only need a smidgin' of your time if possible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'm going to install some audio on a 3ft by 2ft board for a non-car related project, that I want to make into a "perfect" cable install, to learn mostly. I've done a few mediocre car audio installs but either some of the wires didn't sit correctly or there was lacking knowledge what wire or component to use.

The hardware I have before me:

Alpine PDR-F50 (4x 125W RMS @ 2Ω, 4x 85W RMS @ 4Ω)

2x Focal 165VR 6,5" (Midwoofer + Tweeter, 75W Nominal @ 4Ω)

2x Kicker CompRT 6.5" (Subwoofer, 150W Nominal @ 2Ω)

Audio source from decent PC sound card or Alpine iDA-X305S

But these components is what I have and I'm not looking to reinvest in these anytime soon. There's another thing that's detrimental to the project: battery power. I'm not looking into lead-acid or gel batteries, I'm looking at Lithium-Polymer batteries, like these. The electronics for charging, downconverting the voltage and protect all the hardware is for another day though (advice is welcome though).

I want to relieve these batteries of the harsh and peaky power demand that audio can give, so I was contemplating a capacitor. 1 Farad should be enough if I'm understanding it correctly ? What I'm looking for now is advice on this.

The thing this topic is about mostly is about the wiring. The Alpine amplifier has a more specific type of wire clamping:

I've had mixed experiences with this, with inserting the wires. Maybe I'm not using the correct gauges, maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I've never been completely satisfied with the installs using this amplifier. Are there special connectors that have a more secure connection ?

I'm also looking at advice on a one-stop-shop (preferably EU located) that has good wiring (power and speaker), wire management, power distribution, fuses and what else I might need, that doesn't sell magical pixie dust for $100 a meter. Anyone, thanks a bunch in helping me make this project a reality.

Click to read more...

 

[JerryLtowIt]

Hi, I hope this project works out for you. I've installed a few systems for myself and close friends. As far as the wires that connect the amp to speakers and power, I would suggest learning some basic soldering skills. By tinning the ends of the wires before trying to insert them, you'll find that they enter much easier and stay a lot more secure when you tighten the set screws. The correct gauge is very important. Google the spec sheet for your amp, you may find the recommended wire sizes.

Put the phone down and DRIVE!!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

After reading on this forum, I can conclude there is a seriously high level of knowledge here. I'll only need a smidgin' of your time if possible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I'm going to install some audio on a 3ft by 2ft board for a non-car related project, that I want to make into a "perfect" cable install, to learn mostly. I've done a few mediocre car audio installs but either some of the wires didn't sit correctly or there was lacking knowledge what wire or component to use.

The hardware I have before me:

Alpine PDR-F50 (4x 125W RMS @ 2Ω, 4x 85W RMS @ 4Ω)

2x Focal 165VR 6,5" (Midwoofer + Tweeter, 75W Nominal @ 4Ω)

2x Kicker CompRT 6.5" (Subwoofer, 150W Nominal @ 2Ω)

Audio source from decent PC sound card or Alpine iDA-X305S

But these components is what I have and I'm not looking to reinvest in these anytime soon. There's another thing that's detrimental to the project: battery power. I'm not looking into lead-acid or gel batteries, I'm looking at Lithium-Polymer batteries, like these. The electronics for charging, downconverting the voltage and protect all the hardware is for another day though (advice is welcome though).

I want to relieve these batteries of the harsh and peaky power demand that audio can give, so I was contemplating a capacitor. 1 Farad should be enough if I'm understanding it correctly ? What I'm looking for now is advice on this.

The thing this topic is about mostly is about the wiring. The Alpine amplifier has a more specific type of wire clamping:

I've had mixed experiences with this, with inserting the wires. Maybe I'm not using the correct gauges, maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I've never been completely satisfied with the installs using this amplifier. Are there special connectors that have a more secure connection ?

I'm also looking at advice on a one-stop-shop (preferably EU located) that has good wiring (power and speaker), wire management, power distribution, fuses and what else I might need, that doesn't sell magical pixie dust for $100 a meter. Anyone, thanks a bunch in helping me make this project a reality.

Well I'm not sure exactly the question here, but forget about capacitor for this. 1F won't even store enough power to feed that amp for one second of high demand. And as much as you like all your equipment, if you really plan to play this any length of time on battery alone I'd be using completely different equipment focusing on efficiency over all else so you don't need 500W to get the same output, but if you own the gear work with it, just realize lithium isn't cheap and batteries aren't magic AND having too-little battery can damage your amp.

Next, yeah, I have no idea why you'd have trouble with those terminals. I really like that style. If you use sufficient wire gauge they grab nicely, even if you're using thinner wire, doubling over the stripped bit to add some girth or tinning the tips with some solder can also help it bite.

No idea where to order accessories in the UK. Knuconcepts and Sky High are popular audio wiring brands here and I've often got good deals at Darvex.com... .not sure who ships overseas or if there's someone comparable in Europe.

 

[marc2112 10+ year member]

I use pin or spade connectors depending on the amp for speakers.

For power you could use reducers.

 

[Phuncz]

Thanks guys for your comments, really appreciate it. I'm going to be looking up the correct wire gauges and check if the wires I have from a previous install was done with the wrong gauge. The soldering is a good idea, I have the necessary tools for that.

Well I'm not sure exactly the question here, but forget about capacitor for this. 1F won't even store enough power to feed that amp for one second of high demand.

I wasn't quite sure if a capacitor was a good fit for this project but I guess it doesn't make sense to use one. My knowledge about electricity isn't that good and I was going by the advice from someone else on this.

And as much as you like all your equipment, if you really plan to play this any length of time on battery alone I'd be using completely different equipment focusing on efficiency over all else so you don't need 500W to get the same output, but if you own the gear work with it, just realize lithium isn't cheap and batteries aren't magic AND having too-little battery can damage your amp.

You're right I'd better look at more efficient stuff but the reality is that I have this gear worth about $1,000 that's not been used much (or at all), because of two cancelled car audio projects and I'm not going to get enough money back by selling it. So I don't want to throw these decent components away or leave it to rot but give it a second chance in a good project.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You're right I'd better look at more efficient stuff but the reality is that I have this gear worth about $1,000 that's not been used much (or at all), because of two cancelled car audio projects and I'm not going to get enough money back by selling it. So I don't want to throw these decent components away or leave it to rot but give it a second chance in a good project.

Agreed, just bear in mind you're robbing Peter to pay Paul buying very expensive Lithium battery to power inefficient amps and drive inefficient speakers. Give it a whirl and if battery life is an issue when you actually get down to whatever real-world application you're doing you can decide from there if switching gear is cheaper than buying another battery and if you can spare the size/weight of another battery.

Keep in mind, people who build studio monitor type bookshelf speakers for the home to be run on tube amps (perhaps 50 watts per channel) will pick very efficient speakers that will get loud on lower power but wouldn't handle 100W without burning up. I'll wager those portable radios that are powered by a 14V tool battery use speakers that couldn't handle 20W but sound reasonably loud on the 10W the portable battery can make for a full work-day. Really depends on your priorities which way you should go.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

TC5345A - Thomas & Betts - Cable Tie | Galco Industrial Electronics

https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-5831/Cable-Ties-and-Tools/Black-UV-Stabilized-Nylon-Cable-Ties-8-40-lb?pricode=WB0359&gadtype=pla&id=S-5831&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0K7NBRC7ARIsAEaqLRH5hr6JFQIUpICTHrTPJWYUTH9uq3rXWjwhIw6vjOfBbRUam3xUiuIaAqJlEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

If you trying to stabilize voltage fluctuation from inrush current capacitance is the easiest way to do it I suggest making a filter Network if you want to stabilize it and keep noise out. It's pretty costly and you won't need it.

I'm not exactly sure what you are doing but a good option that's viable is a PC power supply.

https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16817139216

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Know if you want to stabilize any voltage Ripple on that power supply you can use some small caps.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Maxwell-Technologies%2fBCAP0005-P270-T01%2f&qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDCPMZUZ%252bYl01QbA%2fGd1ixbeFZRo61I38%3d

Five of these series is more than enough to smooth any ripple.

 

[Phuncz]

The project I'm doing is making a boombox, inspired on the legendary Sharp GF-777 boomboxes. But with technologies from this decade.

If you trying to stabilize voltage fluctuation from inrush current capacitance is the easiest way to do it I suggest making a filter Network if you want to stabilize it and keep noise out. It's pretty costly and you won't need it.I'm not exactly sure what you are doing but a good option that's viable is a PC power supply.

https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16817139216

PC power supplies I have plenty of, but server power supplies might be even more interesting. You can find ones fairly easy that are 80+Titanium rated (90-96% efficiency on 230V) and are 12V only, but require active cooling.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

The project I'm doing is making a boombox, inspired on the legendary Sharp GF-777 boomboxes. But with technologies from this decade.

PC power supplies I have plenty of, but server power supplies might be even more interesting. You can find ones fairly easy that are 80+Titanium rated (90-96% efficiency on 230V) and are 12V only, but require active cooling.

Northstar makes a good deepcycle batteries. They have a handful of good batteries.