Need a nice component system for a truck.

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

I'm thinking a decent two-channel amplifier to power a set of components in each door.

The speaker slot in the door is 6x8 size but I am willing to cut into the panel to place the midbass and the tweeter. I am also interested in a 4-Channel amp, two component sets setup if its ideal for my vehicle.

So any recommendation on which setup I should go for?

4-Channel Amplifier

2x Component speaker set

2-Channel Amplifier

Component set

Recommendations for which amplifier and component set I should get? And if I do op for cutting into the door panel, what could I do to hide or cover up the neglected speaker slot in the door?

Click to read more...

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Tellz mees, I giv free candies!!

 

[tbasile1 10+ year member]

Do you have a substage, or plan on it?

If so, comps in the back is kinda waste of money, if you want to do rears, just get some coaxials

Heres what you can do, get a nice 6.5 component set and amp them, and run rears off the HU, or just get a nice comp set and forget about the rears

And how much do you want to spend??

EDIT: and to fit a 6.5 in a 6x8 location, just make a baffle out of some MDF so you can mount the 6.5

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

Fronts only with some kind of sub stage. Sub stage doesn't have to be wild by any means.. heck, even a little 8" sub in a small sealed enclosure off a 100w rms amp would provide more impact than a second set of midrange and tweeters mounted in the rear.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Fronts only with some kind of sub stage. Sub stage doesn't have to be wild by any means.. heck, even a little 8" sub in a small sealed enclosure off a 100w rms amp would provide more impact than a second set of midrange and tweeters mounted in the rear.

I have two 12" CVT's behind the seat for the substage.

I was looking at the following component set....

Phoenix Gold RSd65cs 6-1/2" 120W Component Speaker System

http://tinyurl.com/2uoz6a

Now to find a matching 2-Channel Amplifier.

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

I was looking at the following component set....

Phoenix Gold RSd65cs 6-1/2" 120W Component Speaker System

http://tinyurl.com/2uoz6a

Now to find a matching 2-Channel Amplifier.

Lots of positive reviews out there for that comp set, so good choice. Try to find an amp that does at least 2x120w rms if not upwards of 2x160-200w rms. Those RSd's will soak it up and the results should be fabulous.

 

[tbasile1 10+ year member]

Thats a really nice comp set

I think we've recommended this amp to others with those PGs

http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap1000.html

Just set the gains right and you should be fine!!

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

^ very decent budget amps.

To give those comps 120w rms per channel, the amp's output voltage would be 21.9V, measures with a DMM and test tone playback.

SQRT(WATTS * OHMS) = OUTPUT VOLTAGE

SQRT(120 * 4) = 21.9V

If you are going to set the gains yourself and not already familiar with the procedure, please read the sticky here and/or click the link in my sig.

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

X3-On this set-up. The PG Rsd are impressive for the price and that profile is an excellent budget amp. The amp will allow you plenty of headroom and the PG rsd like a little pwr. Great recommendations on this set-up.

 

[dwynne 10+ year member]

Thats a really nice comp set
I think we've recommended this amp to others with those PGs

http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap1000.html

Just set the gains right and you should be fine!!

What about spending $5 more and getting the AP1040 4 channel. You could bridge it (assuming the components are 4 ohms) and get the same power out. Add an active x-over now or later and run without the passive for better sound? It would not get as loud as it would run passive with the AP1000 2 channel, but it might be loud enough, not much more expensive, and sound better?

http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap1040.html

Dennis

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

What about spending $5 more and getting the AP1040 4 channel. You could bridge it (assuming the components are 4 ohms) and get the same power out. Add an active x-over now or later and run without the passive for better sound? It would not get as loud as it would run passive with the AP1000 2 channel, but it might be loud enough, not much more expensive, and sound better?
http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap1040.html

Dennis

Cool. tell me more about this.

 

[dwynne 10+ year member]

Cool. tell me more about this.

A technical explanation, but does have diagrams:

http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

Also here: http://www.rocketroberts.com/techart/multi_amp.htm

You have a sub and amp now, right? You could buy the 4 channel amp now and bridge it to two channel and (in theory) have the same power into 4 ohms as the 2 channel amp - for $5 more and 1/2" wider or so amp. Doing it this way or with the 2 channel amp means you have to find a place to mount/hide the passive crossovers (the boxes you see in the picture with the mids and tweeters).

You could then buy an active crossover or a nice head unit (Eclipse?) that does bi-amp with sub out (or tri-amp). You do not use the passive crossovers, but you run the signal from the head unit into the active crossover (or use the built in active i nthe head unit) and then feed mids signal to 2 channels of the 4 channel amp and the tweeter signal to the other 2 channels. You only have to mount/hide the active crossover (if used) and not the 2 passive ones that came with the speakers.

The downside is that with 2 channels you get 2x the power as you do running 4 channels, but you are (potentially) making life easier on the amp having to drive just the one speaker per channel directly. Just like when you add a sub and sub amp - all it has to do is produce the low frequencies and having a high pass in your front speakers means the speakers and the amp does not have to try to reproduce the lows. Makes the speakers happy and the amps happy.

Also you have gain controls for the tweets and the mids both on the active crossover and on the amps input so you have a lot more control of the balance of the two speakers. Some passive crossovers may have pad resistors in them to get the levels to balance, and these waste power. The coils in the passive crossovers also waste power.

If you got the 4 channel then you could hook it up direct to the mids only with 2 channels in 4 channel mode (not bridged) and see how it played (don't try it with the tweets). If you have no trouble driving them with 2 channels, then get an active crossover and bi-amp. If they just will not get loud enough to suit you with clean power, then bride the amp to 2 channels and use the passive crossovers than came with the speakers. You will have wasted $5, I guess.

I am sure if I screwed something up, one of the pros here will straighten me out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

Dennis

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

This is my current "plan to buy" headunit:

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X791

URL: http://tinyurl.com/2mc9wd

Thanks for the information dwynne though it kinda confused. But you were basically speaking of running the tweeters and mids through different channels on a 4-channel amplifier using an active crossover and whatnot, am I correct?

Also, what are some examples of active crossovers?

Also if you have an IM service we could perhaps discuss this more indepth there.

But I was thinking of an idea to have a four channel amplifier powering two different component sets or even two of the same.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

More is not better, you only need front comps...

remember, Stereo, two channels..

not to mention it's a single cab pickup...

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

More is not better, you only need front comps...
remember, Stereo, two channels..

not to mention it's a single cab pickup...

Yay! Ok