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Need a nice component system for a truck.
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<blockquote data-quote="dwynne" data-source="post: 3127043" data-attributes="member: 578175"><p>A technical explanation, but does have diagrams:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm" target="_blank">http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm" target="_blank">http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm</a></p><p></p><p>Also here: <a href="http://www.rocketroberts.com/techart/multi_amp.htm" target="_blank">http://www.rocketroberts.com/techart/multi_amp.htm</a></p><p></p><p>You have a sub and amp now, right? You could buy the 4 channel amp now and bridge it to two channel and (in theory) have the same power into 4 ohms as the 2 channel amp - for $5 more and 1/2" wider or so amp. Doing it this way or with the 2 channel amp means you have to find a place to mount/hide the passive crossovers (the boxes you see in the picture with the mids and tweeters).</p><p></p><p>You could then buy an active crossover or a nice head unit (Eclipse?) that does bi-amp with sub out (or tri-amp). You do not use the passive crossovers, but you run the signal from the head unit into the active crossover (or use the built in active i nthe head unit) and then feed mids signal to 2 channels of the 4 channel amp and the tweeter signal to the other 2 channels. You only have to mount/hide the active crossover (if used) and not the 2 passive ones that came with the speakers.</p><p></p><p>The downside is that with 2 channels you get 2x the power as you do running 4 channels, but you are (potentially) making life easier on the amp having to drive just the one speaker per channel directly. Just like when you add a sub and sub amp - all it has to do is produce the low frequencies and having a high pass in your front speakers means the speakers and the amp does not have to try to reproduce the lows. Makes the speakers happy and the amps happy.</p><p></p><p>Also you have gain controls for the tweets and the mids both on the active crossover and on the amps input so you have a lot more control of the balance of the two speakers. Some passive crossovers may have pad resistors in them to get the levels to balance, and these waste power. The coils in the passive crossovers also waste power.</p><p></p><p>If you got the 4 channel then you could hook it up direct to the mids only with 2 channels in 4 channel mode (not bridged) and see how it played (don't try it with the tweets). If you have no trouble driving them with 2 channels, then get an active crossover and bi-amp. If they just will not get loud enough to suit you with clean power, then bride the amp to 2 channels and use the passive crossovers than came with the speakers. You will have wasted $5, I guess.</p><p></p><p>I am sure if I screwed something up, one of the pros here will straighten me out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif</p><p></p><p>Dennis</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dwynne, post: 3127043, member: 578175"] A technical explanation, but does have diagrams: [URL="http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm"]http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm[/URL] [URL="http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm"]http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm[/URL] Also here: [URL="http://www.rocketroberts.com/techart/multi_amp.htm"]http://www.rocketroberts.com/techart/multi_amp.htm[/URL] You have a sub and amp now, right? You could buy the 4 channel amp now and bridge it to two channel and (in theory) have the same power into 4 ohms as the 2 channel amp - for $5 more and 1/2" wider or so amp. Doing it this way or with the 2 channel amp means you have to find a place to mount/hide the passive crossovers (the boxes you see in the picture with the mids and tweeters). You could then buy an active crossover or a nice head unit (Eclipse?) that does bi-amp with sub out (or tri-amp). You do not use the passive crossovers, but you run the signal from the head unit into the active crossover (or use the built in active i nthe head unit) and then feed mids signal to 2 channels of the 4 channel amp and the tweeter signal to the other 2 channels. You only have to mount/hide the active crossover (if used) and not the 2 passive ones that came with the speakers. The downside is that with 2 channels you get 2x the power as you do running 4 channels, but you are (potentially) making life easier on the amp having to drive just the one speaker per channel directly. Just like when you add a sub and sub amp - all it has to do is produce the low frequencies and having a high pass in your front speakers means the speakers and the amp does not have to try to reproduce the lows. Makes the speakers happy and the amps happy. Also you have gain controls for the tweets and the mids both on the active crossover and on the amps input so you have a lot more control of the balance of the two speakers. Some passive crossovers may have pad resistors in them to get the levels to balance, and these waste power. The coils in the passive crossovers also waste power. If you got the 4 channel then you could hook it up direct to the mids only with 2 channels in 4 channel mode (not bridged) and see how it played (don't try it with the tweets). If you have no trouble driving them with 2 channels, then get an active crossover and bi-amp. If they just will not get loud enough to suit you with clean power, then bride the amp to 2 channels and use the passive crossovers than came with the speakers. You will have wasted $5, I guess. I am sure if I screwed something up, one of the pros here will straighten me out [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif[/IMG] Dennis [/QUOTE]
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