Need 2000W rms at 4 Ohms - Suggestions?

I thought you were the other guy also...lol
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif wtf. im bout to go get baked. good luck on the choice of amp OP. that old school US 2000 or 2000x is a nice one, jsut old school so u would have to gander for that one. im sure these guys will throw some more suggestions your way. but just so we are on the right path........these are 4 ohm dual voice coils correct? if so, maybe even an audiopipe 3000 at 2 ohms bridged?? it would meet your budget and is a decent amp

 
My bad in the first post. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif The 10W3V3's are single voice coil drivers. Should have written -4 instead of -D4.
Keith
so u are gonna have to run 2 ohms a channel with a 2 channel amp or 1 ohm which u didnt want

 
jbl bpx2200.1 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
Thing is amazing
this is a nice suggestion. my uncle has a 700 watt jbl and the thing sounds amazing for only 700. that jbl definately puts out rated power and it sounds like it will work with that u need. if im not mistaken, that 2200 does full power at 4 ohms bridged or 2 ohms a channel correct?

 
so u are gonna have to run 2 ohms a channel with a 2 channel amp or 1 ohm which u didnt want
Are you saying you would not suggest this wiring scenario?

4SVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg


 
The JBL is rated at 1100W x1 at 2 ohms. Your suggestion leads me to believe the rating is accurate and the 275W per sub would be adequate.

Thanks for the heads up on running only 400w per sub. I've been wondering how much true power they can take.

Back to my original post....at 250w per sub at 4 ohms, is the JL 1000/1 a realistic option? The damping factor is over 500 with that amp, so I'm told the SQ should be very good. Again, I'm an admitted noob and always trying to separate fact from fiction in the car audio world.

Keep the advice coming....and the arguing with each other to a minumum. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
this is a nice suggestion. my uncle has a 700 watt jbl and the thing sounds amazing for only 700. that jbl definately puts out rated power and it sounds like it will work with that u need. if im not mistaken, that 2200 does full power at 4 ohms bridged or 2 ohms a channel correct?
yes

It does same power @ 4 ohm and 2 ohm

and a little less @ 1 ohm

Mine: rated for 2200 RMS

Birthsheet = 2510 RMS @ 4 ohm, 21XX Rms @ 1 ohm

 
The JBL is rated at 1100W x1 at 2 ohms. Your suggestion leads me to believe the rating is accurate and the 275W per sub would be adequate.
Thanks for the heads up on running only 400w per sub. I've been wondering how much true power they can take.

Back to my original post....at 250w per sub at 4 ohms, is the JL 1000/1 a realistic option? The damping factor is over 500 with that amp, so I'm told the SQ should be very good. Again, I'm an admitted noob and always trying to separate fact from fiction in the car audio world.

Keep the advice coming....and the arguing with each other to a minumum. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Your mistaken. look at post above^

 
Thanks. Took a closer look at the specs and, of course, you were right.

650W x 2 at 4 ohms

2450w x 1 at 4 ohms

Sounds like a monster of an amp. Probably too much power wired into 1 channel. The 650Wx2 option looks very good.

 
Oh and also to the OP, I wouldn't send 500 RMS to those w3v3's
400each in sealed should be more then enough
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that to the OP, JL Audio lies about their power ratings.

11242.jpg


They tend to rate their RMS power handling as a THERMAL limit and not a mechanical limit now. I found that out the hard way by feeding my 13w6v2 700 watts RMS. It really doesn't like Drum and bass at high volume levels where it is getting close to 700 watts RMS for periods of time. Some of the DnB tracks in my mixes are essentially shifting low frequency test tones.

 
Thanks. Took a closer look at the specs and, of course, you were right.
650W x 2 at 4 ohms

2450w x 1 at 4 ohms

Sounds like a monster of an amp. Probably too much power wired into 1 channel. The 650Wx2 option looks very good.
It's very versitile, and it looks sexy as hell!!!!!

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that to the OP, JL Audio lies about their power ratings.
11242.jpg


They tend to rate their RMS power handling as a THERMAL limit and not a mechanical limit now. I found that out the hard way by feeding my 13w6v2 700 watts RMS. It really doesn't like Drum and bass at high volume levels where it is getting close to 700 watts RMS for periods of time. Some of the DnB tracks in my mixes are essentially shifting low frequency test tones.
Idk about that one. But the 10" is 400 RMS, the 12 (500 RMS) and 13" (600 RMS) model that are built to withstand more power could do more.

I fed by two 13w6v2 in sealed close to 1k each and they were doing just fine. And I listen to a lot of different music.

Not only that, if you ever read the testing report JL release on the W7 Driver. I don't remmeber the whole thing, but The started off the sub in free air and feed 1000 RMS, and play tones on it non stop, every 5 minutes they would increase the power by 100 RMS

The 13w7 didn't fail until 2800 RMS. (and that's in free air)

IMO, pretty impressive!

 
You can do 4 or 1 ohm mono. There are plenty of good

1500-2000w 1 ohm mono amps out there. Sundown SAZ 1500

used is a good choice. Assuming these are actually four single 4

ohm woofers.

 
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