My system doesn't hit high base notes anymore?

They use to hit just fine... until I got two 12"s instead of one and in a closed box not ported... and a new amp... LOL.

I bet if i messed w/ the amp I could fix it. But The amp is hidden behind the **** box... I told the installers to call me before they put the amp hidden so I could tell them what to put it at and they called me and said. "cars done!". Oh great.... now I can't get to the amp.

 
do your rear seats not fold down? Are the wires tight so you cant just move the box around a little?
Nope seats don't fold down and there isn't really a way to go to the amp without taking apart the box.

Get some better mids that can play down lower. You want your subs only playing the low notes. What it sounds like you need and are lacking is a driver capable of providing good midbass.
What do you mean exactly? that just all confused me... lol sorry I'm not a sound expert. I don't know much about this stuff other than what it's suppose to sound like haha.

 
High base is the most difficult base of all the bases. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
larl
Almost unreachable. Up there with the angels.

All your base are belong... Nevermind.

 
Crossover on the amp? or my headunit? I have the cross overs to 180hz on all speakers expect subs which is at 80hz. And those are the settings on my headunit. Not the amp.Thank you for the replies!.
If I'm reading this correctly you just cut out any frequencies from 80 to 180 hertz at your head-unit.

If you don't hear it it's because you need to match your low pass and high pass to merge at the same level, or overlap, not skip 100 hertz of response!

I'm shocked that no-one else saw this. This is no doubt the high bass you are missing, since it's high bass, and it's missing!

 
For all we know, what you are calling high bass is really midbass, which the sub shouldn't produce anyway. Which would mean you just got your subwoofer performing correctly, and this has made your lack of midbass from the front stage much more noticeable. Anything in the 80hz and higher range should come from the front speakers, since our ears can tell which direction they came from.

And I agree, from the wording of your reply, it sounds like you have your xover filtering out everything between 80hz and 180hz.

 
For all we know, what you are calling high bass is really midbass, which the sub shouldn't produce anyway. Which would mean you just got your subwoofer performing correctly, and this has made your lack of midbass from the front stage much more noticeable. Anything in the 80hz and higher range should come from the front speakers, since our ears can tell which direction they came from.
This is my assumption as well except I will even go as far as to say a sub shouldn't play above 60hz, but in the mobile environment in can be hard to get proper midbass drivers to play to 60 with acceptable output. A sub shouldn't do anymore than reinforce sound imo.
 
With a good system you should be able to remove the sub stage and still be pretty satisfied. If you check your crossovers and get some decent drivers for the doors/ seal them off halfway decent and youll be a lot happier. Amping your cabin speakers might also help. Either way, Ive had little ported prefabs like that and they are usually tuned between 40-60hz not to mention they are usually wayyy too small for the sub. going from that to a roomy, sealed box will change things around quite a bit. I moved my 15 from a 1cuft box to a 2cuft box and it went from hitting 40+ well to 40- well.

 
This is my assumption as well except I will even go as far as to say a sub shouldn't play above 60hz, but in the mobile environment in can be hard to get proper midbass drivers to play to 60 with acceptable output. A sub shouldn't do anymore than reinforce sound imo.
You are correct. I like to LP my sub in the 55-60hz region when possible. I tell people 80hz because Ive found with midbass, you need to bring people along in babysteps. Tell them to go from 4x6's on the dash to fully active 3-way with 10" midbass drivers doesn't usually go over well.

 
With a good system you should be able to remove the sub stage and still be pretty satisfied. If you check your crossovers and get some decent drivers for the doors/ seal them off halfway decent and youll be a lot happier. Amping your cabin speakers might also help. Either way, Ive had little ported prefabs like that and they are usually tuned between 40-60hz not to mention they are usually wayyy too small for the sub. going from that to a roomy, sealed box will change things around quite a bit. I moved my 15 from a 1cuft box to a 2cuft box and it went from hitting 40+ well to 40- well.
I agree. And to add, its rare you'll get a sub/enclosure/environment combo to sound perfect right off the bat. Even sealed imo. It will need EQ'ing. It will. And Id rather have a sub system with an overly fat bottom end that I could attenuate than I would like having a lean bottom octave. Never boost with your EQ, only cut. This is why if I am unsure, I aim aggressively for more output than necessary, to EQ/gain it down to perfection while having headroom in reserve. This goes right from signal voltage all the way thru the chain to amplifier output, and ultimately speaker output for a given passband as dictated by enclosure design. Over shoot your goal, then tame it back to perfection with processing.
 
You are correct. I like to LP my sub in the 55-60hz region when possible. I tell people 80hz because Ive found with midbass, you need to bring people along in babysteps. Tell them to go from 4x6's on the dash to fully active 3-way with 10" midbass drivers doesn't usually go over well.
People will listen to my car, granted its not even anything special compared to most. Then they start asking me about subs/amps/shitty hus and I have to explain that the subs were off.

 
Every one! Thank you so much for helping me!. I redid my cross overs and all sounds perfect again!. Thanks guys!.

Couldn't of done it without all your help.

 
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