My setup come see.

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

So needs to "learn" on a setup that is of a lower grade of the totem pole? He cant learn on something that can get loud and sound good doing it? If thats the case, my first motorcycle was "noob" decision. I shouldnt have purchased a 1300cc fuel injected cruiser. See what I did there? I compared apples to oranges. One has very little repercussion and the other has a life or death repercussion.

Nah he needs to learn on cheaper stuff because it's not generally good to spend money if you're going to ruin things ( due to beginner's ignorance ) in this case; blow subs, wiring things wrong etc..

Furthermore I know people with 2 8's that hit 140dBs and sounded amazing...hitting lows really nicely. And they are cheap, 8s are cheaper than the same sub in the 10" version...

 

[Trancer 10+ year member]

Just trying to help him take a step back, put things into perspective and snap him out of the instant gratification mind set that teenagers often find themselves in. I was the same was, when I got the bright idea to buy something I bought it, and it got old before I could spit. I want to help him not make the same mistakes I did. Maybe he will contemplate, and think long and hard about his real priorities now, and at the end of the day, if he still wants to go with a elaborate system, he will put in work studying, researching, and becoming obsessed with audio like all of us ^^
But whatever he chooses to do I'm assured life will go on, and he will be happy with any bass, who doesn't love bass ^^

I think thats why he was asking us and posted this thread. You still havent recommended anything to him. I can see that he did atleast some research. He paired up the subs with the right amp, decent comps, 1/0 wire, etc... He did some. He has alot to learn yes. Thats why Im in a PM conversation with him. Its getting alot more done than this thread and people ripping into him for asking a question... This site.. I swear. 61 posts and you are just like the other's. That didnt take long. Be productive, not reactive. Cut some slack bro. He's a teenager. We both know we, as teenagers, dont react well to that. Hell, I still dont. Thats why I'm still in Management.

 

[Trancer 10+ year member]

Nah he needs to learn on cheaper stuff because it's not generally good to spend money if you're going to ruin things ( due to beginner's ignorance ) in this case; blow subs, wiring things wrong etc..
Furthermore I know people with 2 8's that hit 140dBs and sounded amazing...hitting lows really nicely. And they are cheap, 8s are cheaper than the same sub in the 10" version...

He's working and paying for his stereo on his own. He's working the summer to piece everything together. So he is going to know the meaning of spending his own money. I understand what you are saying about blowing stuff and having to replace it. $2k mark is a little high. I recommended a great stereo at $1k. He is just as liable to blow this stereo than the one he mentioned in his first post.

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

I'm not in the mood to type up some battery / charging system seminar right now. High output Alts come before multiple batteries. Car's electrical equipment draws power from the alternator not the batteries. When the alternator's output is maxed, then and only then do the batteries come into play, aside from the initial starting of the car of course.

Please, waste your time, lol!

I am all about getting an aftermarket alty, but you must have the funds more so than me an average joe with a big family. 100 dollar battery to 400 plus HO alty all when I am doing is running a basic system.....Kind of silly to recommend someone like me an expensive alty upgrade.

There was a drastic difference with my lights with the extra battery in trunk to where the one was lighting my car up like a disco....granted that was stock front battery too.....Optima redtop as starter, powermaster in back and big 3 solved my issue.....and you want to try and save homes some dough, lol!

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

I think thats why he was asking us and posted this thread. You still havent recommended anything to him. I can see that he did atleast some research. He paired up the subs with the right amp, decent comps, 1/0 wire, etc... He did some. He has alot to learn yes. Thats why Im in a PM conversation with him. Its getting alot more done than this thread and people ripping into him for asking a question... This site.. I swear. 61 posts and you are just like the other's. That didnt take long. Be productive, not reactive. Cut some slack bro. He's a teenager. We both know we, as teenagers, dont react well to that. Hell, I still dont. Thats why I'm still in Management.

Just go small at first man it will leave room for future growth, the system you have planned is way above your knowledge / skill level.
You need 8" subs for under the seats and there are 8" subs that will take 1,000 watts RMS easily.

You need 1000 watt amp tops so you can keep your stock electrical, maybe put a nice Optima under the hood.

Some nice replacement door/rear speakers.

A mids/highs amp 100/4

If you want to go 100% sundown, that's fine it's a solid brand but expensive. In car audio you get what you pay for, most of the time, so go with a trusted brand with good customer service e.g. Sundown. That being said my recommendation.

Subs: Sundown E8vsD2 x 2 (Wired to 2 ohms)

Amazon.com: E8v2D2 - Sundown Audio 8" DVC 2 ohm Subwoofer: Car Electronics

$200 + shipping

Sub amp: Sundown SAZ-1000D (300w rms to each sub @ 2 ohms )

Amazon.com: SAZ-1000D - Sundown Audio 1000W 1-Channel Monoblock Amplifier: Car Electronics

$300 + shipping

Speakers: MB Quart Formula FSA216 6.5" Components x 2 sets

Amazon.com: MB Quart Formula FSA216 6.5" 2-Way Component Speaker System: Electronics

$100 + shipping (2 sets)

Speaker amp: Sundown SAX-100.4D

Amazon.com: SAX-100.4D - Sundown Audio 100W 4-Channel Amplifier: Electronics

$400 + shipping

Total: $1000

I recommended this stuff for him, I think it's good stuff for $1000

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

Please, waste your time, lol!
I am all about getting an aftermarket alty, but you must have the funds more so than me an average joe with a big family. 100 dollar battery to 400 plus HO alty all when I am doing is running a basic system.....Kind of silly to recommend someone like me an expensive alty upgrade.

There was a drastic difference with my lights with the extra battery in trunk to where the one was lighting my car up like a disco....granted that was stock front battery too.....Optima redtop as starter, powermaster in back and big 3 solved my issue.....and you want to try and save homes some dough, lol!

Nah I mean a 200a alt for $180 and a D31 yellow top under the hood (as your only battery) would have put you a step ahead of where you are now. I mean I'm on a relatively tight budget myself but we chose this hobby, it does cost money.

I'm just saying if your alternator is not enough so your system cuts into your starter battery's supply, then that's not enough so it digs into the second battery's supply, there is a problem deeper than the batteries you have to look at what is giving your batteries their power, and that's the alt.

 

[Trancer 10+ year member]

I recommended this stuff for him, I think it's good stuff for $1000

Ill give you that one. I missed that post

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The Crescendo 4 channel is as far as I know same board as the sundown and they're blowing them out at

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I'm not in the mood to type up some battery / charging system seminar right now. High output Alts come before multiple batteries. Car's electrical equipment draws power from the alternator not the batteries. When the alternator's output is maxed, then and only then do the batteries come into play, aside from the initial starting of the car of course.

Personally I do batteries first, and for

I'd also advise getting GOOD euqipment right out the gate. When I was in high school I bought a lot of cheap "beginner" (**** quality) gear. In retrospect I could have bought good equipment the first time and it wouldn't blow up or fail and it would be worth something when I tried to re-sell it to upgrade.

2K isn't THAT much money on a hobby, a set of golf clubs and a membership at a town/public course is more, a couple high end fishing rigs and accessories is about that.

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

Personally I do batteries first, and for
I'd also advise getting GOOD euqipment right out the gate. When I was in high school I bought a lot of cheap "beginner" (**** quality) gear. In retrospect I could have bought good equipment the first time and it wouldn't blow up or fail and it would be worth something when I tried to re-sell it to upgrade.

2K isn't THAT much money on a hobby, a set of golf clubs and a membership at a town/public course is more, a couple high end fishing rigs and accessories is about that.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

A quick way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system.

If you want more power than your alternator can service, you will have to consider having your alternator rebuilt for higher output — or invest in a high-output aftermarket alternator. Installing a second battery won't help — that only allows you to play your stereo for long periods with the engine off. But, remember that any system playing at one-third volume is drawing considerably less current than the same system at three-quarter volume, and may not need a charging system upgrade if the volume levels are kept reasonable.

If your system needs more current than the alternator can supply, it starts to grab current from the battery — not a good thing for your car or your music! Here are a couple of warning signs to look for:

* your headlights dim in time to the music when you crank it up loud at night;

* your bass sounds great when you first turn it on, but gets mushy and less powerful within a minute or so.

One easy, effective solution is installing a capacitor. Heavy-duty capacitors connect to the power cable (just before it reaches your amplifier) and act as a buffer zone between your amp and your car's electrical system. They store up a reservoir of power which can supply the amplifier's peak demands (like a kick drum beat) without having to pull current from the battery.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

Dang no need to bash the kid! At least he came here looking for advice and looking at good equipment. I wish this was here when I had my first system. It would have saved me a lot of money!

He can go with...

2 SA-8's (used or reconed)~ 200

1- ap15001d ~140

1-pg rsd65cs ~100

1-cadence xa125.2~ 110

1- kunkonceptz wire kit 4 ga~ 70

mics. ~75

695 total w/o head unit and box