My first recone was a disaster :(

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

Ok, should the cone seperate, is there anything I can do besides a complete recone?

if you did not glue the dustcap on yet re-align it with the shims and glue it down properly. should be no issue.

i leave the dustcaps off untill after i glue the kit on a free air it. if all is well i then glue on the dust cap.

 

[Decado2 10+ year member]

I glued the dust caps on, but with my skills and glue, I can probably pop those off! lol

 

[JohnEJanowitz 10+ year member]

I cut up the 2 Konaki's, one 12" and one 15", the bolts came out of the 12" easy, all but one of the bolts came out of the 15", I had to drill the head off the last bolt. So, one of my 10's has only 5 bolts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif , well, I used locktite thread locker on all the bolts so I guess I will be cool.

This isn't too big of a deal at all. You need to glue the frame down to the top plate also, otherwise it will vibrate and rattle after time. The bolts main function is to keep the frame from shifting side to side on the top plate. Even 3 bolts combined with the glue will be plenty. We used to buy our AV woofers from a manufacturer you're probably all aware of. We had many with only TWO or THREE out of 6 even put in.

The other thing that is good to do is use heatsink grease between the top plate and frame. It helps transfer heat to the frame and cool the top plate.

After bolting down the baskets I went to put the terminals on, thats when I noticed that on one side of one of the baskets, the hole you bolt the terminal too, was misaligned, so I could not bolt the terminal on.

We get all of these fun things to deal with daily. Holes not aligned, holes too small, holes never drilled where they should be. It's lots of fun. I think about 25% of the time it takes to build a woofer is just inspecting the parts to make sure they're right. haha

I then mixed up the epoxy and placed it on the landings, got my envelope for a shim and dropped the cone in, the epoxy locked tight to the spiders, but would not hold the surround //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif .

Ah yes, I spent probably 6 months just researching glues. The problem is that there are so many surround types to glue to. For foam or natural rubbers you can go get a tube of model cement in the hobby section at walmart. It's similar to the stuff we use, and should hold ok. On rubber surrounds, wiped the surface down with MEK then scuff the surface that glues down to the frame before gluing. For santoprene or epdm you face another challenge. Santoprene not only has the surface oil but continues to keep secreting oil over time. So you may be able to bond to it temporarily, but it can still fall apart later. We use a loctite primer for hard to bond plastics and a loctite CA glue. There are also adhesives you can get for EPDM roofing and rubber roof repairs that work ok also.

Spiders are pretty easy to glue. The challenge you face is that any sharp edges created by a very hard expoy act like a knife edge and wear right through the spider as it moves. The model cement is a good option for spiders also as it doesn't get extremely hard.

On gluing to the frame, scuff the surface under the surround and under the spider. If the surface is smooth your glue will stick to the spider or surround but can come clean off the frame.

John

 

[tamagotchi]

wer da picz?

 

[dadydolas 10+ year member]

if u want to learn to recone buy garbage woofers and recone them dont try to learn on good woofers

its like trying to learn to rebuild an engine and starting with a ferrarri

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

bob smith corporation ic-2000 .. ... good for surrounds and spiders.

 

[dadydolas 10+ year member]

this is not an insult just a suggestion

 

[JohnEJanowitz 10+ year member]

bob smith corporation ic-2000 .. ... good for surrounds and spiders.

We experimented with that, as well as about 50 other black rubber toughened CA glues. It seemed to be about the same as most others we tried and should work well. You can pretty much use it for everything. Cone to coil, spider to coil, spider to frame, and surround to frame. Keep in mind you will still need a primer with any kind of santoprene or epdm rubber. For natural rubbers wiping with MEK will be sufficient.

John

 

[dcole18 5,000+ posts]

john are you the guy who had somthing (or maybe everything... hell, idk) to do with lms tech and TC sounds //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[Decado2 10+ year member]

Thanks guys for all the feedback, and thanks John, your the guy from AE right, I never did get around to ordering a set of your subs.

Anyway, the glue is dry, and the subs checked out ok on the HT reciever, no mech noise, no scratching coil, I doubt this means anything though, the ultimate test awaits, 1200 watts rms each from a kx 2500.1 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif.

I am trying to get the pics up now brb.....

 

[02parkave 5,000+ posts]

this is not an insult just a suggestion

and? do you think the konakis are high end?

and dec.. cb?

 

[02parkave 5,000+ posts]

john are you the guy who had somthing (or maybe everything... hell, idk) to do with lms tech and TC sounds //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

not that i dont believe it.. but.. without knowing the TRUTH, i wouldnt believe either side

 

[Decado2 10+ year member]

 

[Decado2 10+ year member]

 

[Decado2 10+ year member]