Midbass suggestions

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
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Ohio
So some of you may be familiar with my setup since I've asked 500 questions on it, but this omes about midbass and upper midbass. Currently I have component JBL 6.5s in the front doors and focal 5.25s in the rear. Pioneer 8 inch sub in the rear deck. The lows hit hard, but I feel the music is still a little too bright for my taste, so I'd like to add some more midbass.

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These are my front door panels. The area circled is a door pocket. I believe I could cut that out and glass it. I used to repair all the fiberglass truck body parts for Peterbuilt, so I'm pretty good with glass. I'm not sure if I could fit an 8 there, how is say a 6x9 for midbass? Other size suggestions? And suggestions for 8 inch midbass or 6x9 midbass speakers please in the 50-70 watt RMS range. My amp outputs 50 rms @ 4 ohm and 70 RMS @ 2 ohm. I plan on running the rears off the head unit and using the rear sub channels to power the new midbass drivers.
 
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After measuring an 8 would be extremely tight. The bottom of the panel to the part that sits under the door handle is just a hair over 8 inches. I think it could be done, but it would be close.
 
unless your goin to comps or are an extreme audiophile...this seems like alot of work for a low level system to begin with.....whats speakers are taking over after midbass (80hz-300hz is what i consider midbass) something has to take over from there and then you need the processing to do it
 
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Well, it would seem that way. But when you spend up to 8 hours a day in your car, sound is important. Im no audiophile for sure, but I like for my music to sound good. And right now, that's more midbase.
 
Are your doors treated/sealed to ensure no existing midbass from your comp’s is lost. What’s existing power to your comps. Guys who run dedicated midbass and yes some of them 8’s are putting a significant more than 50-70watts on them. Double to triple or more even. Probably an easier route to get more midbass than the door cutting you’re thinking about
 
Are your doors treated/sealed to ensure no existing midbass from your comp’s is lost. What’s existing power to your comps. Guys who run dedicated midbass and yes some of them 8’s are putting a significant more than 50-70watts on them. Double to triple or more even. Probably an easier route to get more midbass than the door cutting you’re thinking about

70 watts rms currently runnig to the comps, which is what they're rated to run. You think I should up the watts?
 
unless your goin to comps or are an extreme audiophile...this seems like alot of work for a low level system to begin with.....whats speakers are taking over after midbass (80hz-300hz is what i consider midbass) something has to take over from there and then you need the processing to do it
What do you mean the processing to do it? I've never really built a complex system. In fact, this is the first time I've used an amp for something under a sub. What would you suggest I do? Heres my full setup.


Those in the front doors. They get loud, and hit decently on rap type music with clean bass. However, on rock type music they get muddy and the low bass from instruments disapears.


This mounted in the rear deck. It hits hard and low enough for me, but the bass is too sloppy for my taste so it is getting a sealed enclosure.


My head unit. Works fine, does its job. 13 band EQ etc. Nothing fancy.

Rear speakers. They are what they are.


My amp. Seems nice. Not tons of power, but works well.

So, suggestions anybody?
 
I’m not trying to get you wrapped around the axle but I would throw those comps more power.

no cost- bridge that amp to your existinf Comp set and run the rear coaxial on the deck. Jbl’s can take more
Some cost - get s bigger amp for all channels and push those comps to the limit while keeping rear coaxials amplified
More cost - get a better Comp set with higher power handling and bigger 4 channel
 
Throwing more power at the comps is free and easy, so I'll try that first. You don't think 140 rms will damage them?
 
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LsGuy

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