Mechman Alt Quality?... Better than OEM?

[John Doe]

They also have the 240A and 320A options https://www.down4soundshop.com/Mech...amp-alternator-for-dodge-ram-5-7l-hemi-truck/

I'd still contact Singer again. I think the 250-275A model he sells would be the perfect balance between peice of mind and price, especially if your dodge does have a voltage regulator

Alright now both of you make up and kiss already..
Just a lovers spat...
And shake take a look at my last post on my thread please.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Get the 370 if you're running a 3k.

My 300 amp cost $500 and that was dealer price. You get what you pay for. You want full tilt with less worries? Get a 370

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

You wanna be average or you wanna be awesome? Gotta drop some $$$ to be awesome. That's part of why I almost hit a 150 with 2400w underpowered on 2 18's tuned to 29 hz with 12.3 in^2 per cube. 4 batteries and a 300 amp alt charging @ ~15v. I could ride for hours at full tilt and not worry about anything but my hatch breaking again.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

But what y’all are saying is if someone buys LTO there’s no need for an HO alt or AGM batteries?

Yes, but depending on your listening habits it may not be the best or least expensive option. We have a very large Korean 9K amp in my brother's civic on stock alternator and 240AH of LTO cells and it's adequate for whatever he does and pushed hard he would burn up subs before he ran out of reserve.

So say your standard vehicle alt is 100 amps and you have 200 amps of current draw from the audio equipment.....then get a 300 amp alt.

Except which of these "350A" alternators will ever make that hot and at idle or at normal driving RPM? How fast will an alternator load down and be able to produce that current for dynamic program material? Some reserve either with battery or super caps is nearly always a good idea.

Trying it on stock electrical, like some people have advised, would be ridiculous.

Really that was probably the most sensible suggestion on this thread especially since you're probably not trying to compete or beat down the block or whatever. It is unlikely stock electrical will really get you where you want to be but it would be a good base line from which to start and you could make your own observations on which upgrades give you what by way of real world performance in your day to day use.
There's not a right answer here and there's certainly many ways to approach feeding amps properly and how any of them works is almost entirely dependent on your install and how you play it.

Yes, electrical upgrades are expensive particularly if you want to keep your voltage really solid and buy stuff that's going to last. Third worlders making 5 cents a watt amps seems to fool a lot of noobs into thinking that getting big power is a poor man's hoby but it is not and never will be. Even before the ultra cheap full bridge became popular most of us planned to spend more on electrical upgrades than we spent on amp(s) once you get beyond what stock electrical will support.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Yes, but depending on your listening

They also have the 240A and 320A options https://www.down4soundshop.com/Mech...amp-alternator-for-dodge-ram-5-7l-hemi-truck/

I'd still contact Singer again. I think the 250-275A model he sells would be the perfect balance between peice of mind and price, especially if your dodge does have a voltage regulator

So what does this mean that I should steer clear of Mechman because of the regulator?

 

[mastershake575]

So what does this mean that I should steer clear of Mechman because of the regulator?

You need a volt meter installed (your installer should have plenty in stock, there usually pretty cheap). It will tell you how aggressive your regulator is if you have one and is a good monitoring tool to figure out if your pulling too much current for your daily needs. In regards to Mechman it just depends on how aggressive the OEM regulator is, if it's not very aggressive then it should be fine (worst case you manually bypass the PCM or you buy a bypass adapter from Singer)

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

You need a volt meter installed (your installer should have plenty in stock, there usually pretty cheap). It will tell you how aggressive your regulator is if you have one and is a good monitoring tool to figure out if your pulling too much current for your daily needs. In regards to Mechman it just depends on how aggressive the OEM regulator is, if it's not very aggressive then it should be fine (worst case you manually bypass the PCM or you buy a bypass adapter from Singer)

So, install a volt meter before I install a new alternator?

 

[mastershake575]

So, install a volt meter before I install a new alternator?

I would. It will allow you to see how aggressive your regulator is (assuming you have one) and if you did try to do your build without upgrading the alternator it would give you a good reference point of how loud you can get because you can simply just monitor your voltage while playing your music. Volt meters are a great tool for sure

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I would. It will allow you to see how aggressive your regulator is (assuming you have one) and if you did try to do your build without upgrading the alternator it would give you a good reference point of how loud you can get because you can simply just monitor your voltage while playing your music. Volt meters are a great tool for sure

Yes, the voltage regulator is internal on my stock alternator.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Except which of these "350A" alternators will ever make that hot and at idle or at normal driving RPM? How fast will an alternator load down and be able to produce that current for dynamic program material? Some reserve either with battery or super caps is nearly always a good idea.

Oh yea, I'm not saying don't get batts and stuff too. Idk, my 300 amp worked very well daily driving. I had it on the explorer for 5 years or so and only blew it once trying to jump start a fiero, which was my fault. It did alright at idle and at about 2k was full power. I also had 4 group 31 batteries.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I would. It will allow you to see how aggressive your regulator is (assuming you have one) and if you did try to do your build without upgrading the alternator it would give you a good reference point of how loud you can get because you can simply just monitor your voltage while playing your music. Volt meters are a great tool for sure

Pick up later today!

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I know, no pictures then it didn't happen.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Very impressive label.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Very impressive label.

What does that mean?

 

[mastershake575]

What does that mean?

He's being sarcastic. The mechman box is something straight out of the late 90s (wouldn't be surprised if the back of the box said "warning, might set off car alarms" )