Wiring Subs - Questions I have


ButtButt

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 18, 2021
5
0
Nebraska
I currently have a Kicker CompC 10inch SVC subwoofer and a Kicker CX 400 Mono Amp. I was wanting to hook up another 10 inch Kicker CompC sub.
Right now it runs 150 watts @ 4ohms to the 1 sub, if I wire in parallel it says the amp will put out 300 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms. Does this mean each sub will run at 300 watts? Or will it just split the power equally, as in 150 watts to each sub?

The subs are rated for 300 watts rms.

They make the Kicker CX 800 Mono amp that says it can run 600 watts x 1 @2ohms, would this be the better option amplifier to get the most out of the 2 subwoofers?

Also I have a 65amp fuse for the power cable, would I need to upgrade that if I got the Kicker CX 800 mono amp?

Thanks.
 

ButtButt

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 18, 2021
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0
Nebraska
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
I also am running an 8 gauge power cable, will this be enough for the bigger amp also?
 

Buck

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ok cool ty :D would an 80 amp fuse be the right one to go with then?
You really fuse for the wire size more than anything. So you need to find what amperage your wire is rated at, and fuse at that amperage or a little lower, a little lower than wire rating is safer, sometimes fuses take a long time to blow.
 

Dafaseles

CarAudio.com Recruit
Nov 12, 2020
82
24
510
You really fuse for the wire size more than anything. So you need to find what amperage your wire is rated at, and fuse at that amperage or a little lower, a little lower than wire rating is safer, sometimes fuses take a long time to blow.
I don't mean to take over this thread, but I've seen people say this often.
When doing runs between batteries and alt to battery, I understand this because you're protecting the wire, not the equipment. But when you're fusing specifically for an amp, isn't that to protect the equipment (the amp)? So wouldn't you just use the recommendation of the manufacturer or whatever the math equals to as far as wattage output?
Not trying to say your wrong, please don't take it that way, just curious
 

Buck

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I don't mean to take over this thread, but I've seen people say this often.
When doing runs between batteries and alt to battery, I understand this because you're protecting the wire, not the equipment. But when you're fusing specifically for an amp, isn't that to protect the equipment (the amp)? So wouldn't you just use the recommendation of the manufacturer or whatever the math equals to as far as wattage output?
Not trying to say your wrong, please don't take it that way, just curious
You can do it that way. Generally the fuses in the amp protect the amp. It would just come down to personal preference at that point.
 
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Dafaseles

CarAudio.com Recruit
Nov 12, 2020
82
24
510
You can do it that way. Generally the fuses in the amp protect the amp. It would just come down to personal preference at that point.
That makes sense.
What about if the amp doesn't have internal fusing? (Like my salt 4's) would you still fuse to the wire? Just curious because I haven't installed them yet. Wanna make sure it's done right
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
412
108
Ohio
The Kicker amps in question here do not have internal fusing, I installed 3 in my Jeep. What I did, installed 1/0 fused into the vehicle into a 3 way distro block. Coming out of the distro was 2 runs of 4 gauge. One went into an 80 amp fuse and then to my kicker sub amp. The other 4 gauge went into a fused distro with 2 50 amp fuses. Coming out of that is 2x 8 gauge wires, one to each of my CX360 amps. Each amp fused, and the main line fused at the battery. Dont know if this is totally correct, but seemed the safe way to do it.
 
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Buck

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That makes sense.
What about if the amp doesn't have internal fusing? (Like my salt 4's) would you still fuse to the wire? Just curious because I haven't installed them yet. Wanna make sure it's done right
If that's the case, I would definitely fuse to protect the amp.
 
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Buck

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The Kicker amps in question here do not have internal fusing, I installed 3 in my Jeep. What I did, installed 1/0 fused into the vehicle into a 3 way distro block. Coming out of the distro was 2 runs of 4 gauge. One went into an 80 amp fuse and then to my kicker sub amp. The other 4 gauge went into a fused distro with 2 50 amp fuses. Coming out of that is 2x 8 gauge wires, one to each of my CX360 amps. Each amp fused, and the main line fused at the battery. Dont know if this is totally correct, but seemed the safe way to do it.
Do you have any batteries in the rear?
 

Buck

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I do, but its not for audio. All the new jeeps have a battery in the rear, as well as a generator. Buts for the stop/start system.
Gotcha, yeah I just meant for audio.
 

ButtButt

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 18, 2021
5
0
Nebraska
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #16
My current power cable is 8 gauge. Would I need to get a 4 if I were to upgrade to the 800 amplifier?
 

ButtButt

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 18, 2021
5
0
Nebraska
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
Dang, ok. I didn't really want to wire up another power cable lol, the car is a pain in the butt to run the cable :D ty for the info :) I work at a parts store so I can get a discount on an AGM battery, and my alternator is pretty new also.
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
412
108
Ohio
Dang, ok. I didn't really want to wire up another power cable lol, the car is a pain in the butt to run the cable :D ty for the info :) I work at a parts store so I can get a discount on an AGM battery, and my alternator is pretty new also.
You shouldn't need any big 3 for that amp your electrical is in good shape, it really doesn't pull that much power. Yes, run 4 gauge. I also had to switch from 8 to 4 when I installed the amp. Mimes run under the carpet, so I taped the 4 to the end of the 8, and pulled it through. This made it easy to run the new wire.
 

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