Mechman Alt Quality?... Better than OEM?

[Marve_Lous]

So I’ve decided to go ahead and upgrade my alt in my 2010 Cadillac DTS. I don’t need anything super powerful as I’m just running one 1500 watt amp, and IF I do add an amp later it’ll just be a 400 watter or less for the door speakers.
Current alt is OE 150 amp. The DTS also comes in a limo which has a 220 amp alt which is OEM and would be a direct fit. On Mechman’s site they have a 240 amp available for my car, but requires a slighter smaller belt. I’ll also up the battery to an AGM and do the big 4 upgrade. Usually when I buy parts for my car I go OE because they’re always recommended and seem to perform better and last longer than aftermarket. So should I just get the limo version OE alt, or is the Mechman better and just as reliable?

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[ThxOne Premium Member]

What is more expensive? The limo or the Mechman? I am willing to bet the Limo Alt is less expensive and if it is indeed a direct bolt in, then it would be less of a hassle. I'd go OEM.

 

[Marve_Lous]

What is more expensive? The limo or the Mechman? I am willing to bet the Limo Alt is less expensive and if it is indeed a direct bolt in, then it would be less of a hassle. I'd go OEM.

The Mechman is $20 more.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

The Mechman is $20 more.

$20 more plus the cost of a new belt... call it another $30 for a good belt. I'd go OEM. I'd also check warranties... who is better and covers more.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Well if the mechman is a 6 phase hairpin it will be more efficient and more amperage at idle. I would spend $20 more for that.

 

[Firewalker]

For 20 bucks and if it has that 6 phase like Pop says I would go that route, different belt is no big deal as Mechman will tell you which one to get. I wish mine was that cheap from Mechman but nope stupid Ford 4G

 

[Marve_Lous]

Well if the mechman is a 6 phase hairpin it will be more efficient and more amperage at idle. I would spend $20 more for that.

It is a 6 phase. I just hope it last several years like OEs usually do.

 

[Firewalker]

Mechman quality is pretty good. Especially since everyone is custom built with new parts unlike some aftermarket High Output places.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Mechman is great quality IMO. They're expensive, but they're a great company.

 

[mastershake575]

Mechman is good quality but 2 reasonable issues is why I have never gone with them.

For the price there asking they should be able to bypass the voltage regulators that are common on those post 2010 era cars (what's the point in buying an aftermarket electrical upgrade if your stuck with low voltage from the PCM ? It's an oxymoron). Also although the idle amperage isn't bad on mechman the idle amperage on Singer and DC are both signficantly better

 

[John Doe]

Mechman is good quality but 2 reasonable issues is why I have never gone with them.

For the price there asking they should be able to bypass the voltage regulators that are common on those post 2010 era cars (what's the point in buying an aftermarket electrical upgrade if your stuck with low voltage from the PCM ? It's an oxymoron). Also although the idle amperage isn't bad on mechman the idle amperage on Singer and DC are both signficantly better

Like the accords? Ours have that built in ELD crap but from my understanding, if you keep your DRL, fogs, AC, etc on, it’ll detect a higher load and start to actually work normally?

 

[mastershake575]

Like the accords? Ours have that built in ELD crap but from my understanding, if you keep your DRL, fogs, AC, etc on, it’ll detect a higher load and start to actually work normally?

Honda made it standard way before anyone else. I know by at least the mid 90s they already had the voltage regulators (ELD). Alot of newer cars have adopted it, car makers do it because it slightly pads the MPG ratings.

it’ll detect a higher load and start to actually work normally?

Depends. On my Honda that trick would work but id never see above 13.8 even with the ELD on full tilt (usually with the ELD on i'd be 13.3-13.8 range while driving with no music on). Moment I threw in the Singer Alt which had the ELD bypass built in I was immediately seeing 14.8V

I don't see the point in Mechman selling an expensive aftermarket electrical upgrade and then basically saying "yeah sorry it's only going to run at 80% potential because we don't want to bypass the PCM"

 

[John Doe]

Honda made it standard way before anyone else. I know by at least the mid 90s they already had the voltage regulators (ELD). Alot of newer cars have adopted it, car makers do it because it slightly pads the MPG ratings.
Depends. On my Honda that trick would work but id never see above 13.8 even with the ELD on full tilt (usually with the ELD on i'd be 13.3-13.8 range while driving with no music on). Moment I threw in the Singer Alt which had the ELD bypass built in I was immediately seeing 14.8V

I don't see the point in Mechman selling an expensive aftermarket electrical upgrade and then basically saying "yeah sorry it's only going to run at 80% potential because we don't want to bypass the PCM"

interesting...I thought I was done with having a system in my car and sold everything. Now I’m back to having multiple tabs open with multiple carts full of products lmao.

I was looking at actually trying out a HO Alt this time. Thought mechman’s came with the regulator but I guess I’ll have to go with signer... if I pair that with a limitless lithium say, 15ah? How big am I looking at for a daily system? As far as “watts” capability...

 

[mastershake575]

I was looking at actually trying out a HO Alt this time. Thought mechman’s came with the regulator but I guess I’ll have to go with signer... if I pair that with a limitless lithium say, 15ah? How big am I looking at for a daily system? As far as “watts” capability...

Singer alt with ELD bypass and big 3 should be way more than enough for a simple daily system. Batteries I wouldn't even worry about, batteries are good buffers when you pull more current then you can create but if your rocking a 200+ amp alternator at 14V+ I wouldn't even worry about having a reserve for a "buffer". Buffers and reserves have less purpose when you can actually create true power

 

[John Doe]

Singer alt with ELD bypass and big 3 should be way more than enough for a simple daily system. Batteries I wouldn't even worry about, batteries are good buffers when you pull more current then you can create but if your rocking a 200+ amp alternator at 14V+ I wouldn't even worry about having a reserve for a "buffer". Buffers and reserves have less purpose when you can actually create true power

Thanks for the help. I’ll be inquiring about their HO’s tonight or tomorrow.