In a toolbox in the bed if it's not one of the big old American pickups with the extra space under the hood.So, where would you put a second AGM in a standard cab, just curious? I'll wait.
If your "installer" is the only person whose opinion actually matters to you, then you need to have a conversation with HIM. Lots of people are giving you their advice and you keep writing it off. You're acting like a 16-year-old who doesn't actually want advice and just wants his own opinion confirmed. Not to mention you completely derailed yet another thread with your own build.I can can get them for $280 with connecting links. That's what I was trying to say, my installer wants to get rid of my AGM that I just bought and run lithium with a bigger alternator. I guess I'll ask him about just runni ng a bigger alternator, AGM, and big 3.
My bad man. If I start a thread about my build people get pissed off and if I ask a question on a thread people also get pissed off. No worries, good luck with your build. I'll delete my posts on your thread.It’s all good. I’ve never done any type of electrical upgrades as I’ve never really needed it since I had smaller systems so I’m learning myself. I’ve never even looked into LTO. But what y’all are saying is if someone buys LTO there’s no need for an HO alt or AGM batteries? How big of a system can LTO handle?
You’re straight. That’s why I started this thread. To learn more about electrical upgrades/options.My bad man. If I start a thread about my build people get pissed off and if I ask a question on a thread people also get pissed off. No worries, good luck with your build. I'll delete my posts on your thread.
Oh poor Bobby. Woe is you.My bad man. If I start a thread about my build people get pissed off and if I ask a question on a thread people also get pissed off. No worries, good luck with your build. I'll delete my posts on your thread.
I said in an earlier post that I will figure it out. I guess that you didn't read that post. I don't have room for two AGM's under the hood because the cold air intake is in the way. I was simply asking if those electrical upgrades are typical for a 3,700 watt setup. No worries man, I'll figure it out. Dump the AGM and run lithium and an alternator.Oh poor Bobby. Woe is you.
My point is you have very knowledgeable people (myself excluded) offering your their honest advice and you keep countering with "Well my installer says xyz... and he's the best in the country". If he's so damn awesome why are you bothering with the peons on this site? Either listen to your installer and buy what he tells you for him to install, or buy why the guys here recommend and pay your guy to install it regardless of his opinion. No installer wants to hear "well some people on the internet said..." and nobody here wants to hear "thanks for the tips but my guy knows more than you".
YOU will know what YOU need to upgrade as you use it. If you are set on your amp and subs, build your box and install it all on stock electrical and see how it works. Find your weak link. Upgrade. Repeat. You have almost zero chance of finding someone with a black 2005 straight cab hemi pickup running the identical subs, amp, and box to give you gospel. If you do, hopefully that pickup has the same mileage/hours as well to account for any wear or degradation of any component.
There are countless variables involved. At the end of the day, you have to just make a decision and give it a shot.
Lastly, as I mentioned in a previous post that you didn't acknowledge, do some research on Cummins-equipped pickups of your model year. There's a good chance you can pick up a second battery tray from a diesel pickup to mount two batteries under the hood. You might have to rearrange some other stuff under your hood, but that'll be easier than making your own battery mount.
That's why I said alternator, lithium, and big 3. Trying it on stock electrical, like some people have advised, would be ridiculous.Doesn't matter what you have really if you can't charge it. Optimally you want alt(s) that output system amperage draw + vehicle amperage draw. So I'd say for ultimate performance, do your factory alt amperage + whatever fusing is on your amps.
So say your standard vehicle alt is 100 amps and you have 200 amps of current draw from the audio equipment.....then get a 300 amp alt.
I don't get it.Jesus fucking christ. I give up.
There's no way you where this bad though. I doubt back in the day you made threads that where basically "people are saying this sundown amp is good....... uhhh my installers wants soundqubed........ uhhh why didn't these people tell me to get sundown that sounds like a great idea....... uhhhh i'm going digital designs duh".I used to annoy people too lol.
I haven't read through the thread all of the way. I understand hahaha. Idk, I've done this stuff enough that I know what I want. I'm not the most experienced, not by a long shot, but I know what I'm looking for when I build a system.There's no way you where this bad though. I doubt back in the day you made threads that where basically "people are saying this sundown amp is good....... uhhh my installers wants soundqubed........ uhhh why didn't these people tell me to get sundown that sounds like a great idea....... uhhhh i'm going digital designs".
That's basically the equavlent of whats going on
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