Man oh Man, I need some insight. 6x9 vs components + sub

raymonddd
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Hey guys, I have been meaning to update my sound system, and need some guidance.

I have 2005 Ram 4 door, and currently have an Alpine HU, and Alpine MRP-F600.

I originally wanted to avoid going with a sub, because of the space sacrifice and cost sacrifice.

So I was looking at 6x9's to put in the front door, hoping they would provide enough bass to run without a sub. Would you guys recommend 6x9's or 6.5" components, if I am looking or a good all around system that provides decent SQ and decent bass. Or do I have to go all out and buy components, sub, and sub box?

 
well, a 6x9 would potentially give you more bass because it has more cone area. as for the quality between the two, its not in my jurisdiction to judge that lol

 
6x9 components maybe, either way you need an amp for them and seal/deaden the doors

but adding even a small sealed sub will be better bass

 
I haven't seemed to come across any 6x9 components?

I do plan on sound deadening the doors, and I do have the MRP-F600 amp, its supposed to provide 125x4 watts RMS.

And is there a sound/price difference between sealed and vented subs?

 
ported (or vented) enclosures are larger, but they can be tuned to peak at a certain frequency and can be much louder than sealed enclosures. sealed enclosures take up less space than a ported (subs need less space for a sealed enclosure), don't peak at any specific frequencies (i.e. flat response) and can be "punchier" where as a ported may seem more boomy. sealed boxes do not have very good low end extension.

if built and designed properly, a ported can be just as good as a sealed box but with the pro of having extra output.

you can find a whole bunch of 6x9's here: 6x9 Speakers | 6x9 Car Speakers | 6x9 Coaxial Speakers

 
Ok thanks for the info, now, if you were in my position, where you have a headunit and amp, are looking for decent bass and SQ, and would like to keep storage space if possible, would you go with 6x9's, 6.5" components, or 6.5" components and a sub+box.

Also cost is a major factor, I'm thinking no more than $150ish for two speakers.

 
Get a 8" sub, put it in a prefab sealed box and put it wherever it will fit.

Bridge 2 channels of the amp together and run 200 watts to the 8" sub wired to 4 ohms for clean, crisp, efficient power.

Run the other channels to a set of components that fit wherever you want to put them.

Have a professional adjust the crossovers to fit the optimal frequency responses for the sub/speakers you decide to go with.

Probably 30 hz-80 hz frequencies played through the sub, and 80+ to the comps, if there is an even more in depth crossover network included with the comps, the mids should cover 80 hz-2k hz and the tweeters 2k hz-20k hz or thereabouts.

*Of course these are just rough estimates and the real figures will rely solely on your speakers/sub.*

Quality 8" sub - $50-$2000

Quality set of components - $50-$3000

You have the amp already..

 
Alright, so I took your advice into consideration and went to Fry's Electronics to demo some speakers, and having a sub in the mix really sounds like what I am looking for.

Now as for components, I cannot bring myself to cut I hole in my door panels, so would it be ok to mount the 6.5 AND tweeter in the original 6x9 mounting location?

 
Now as for components, I cannot bring myself to cut I hole in my door panels, so would it be ok to mount the 6.5 AND tweeter in the original 6x9 mounting location?
Yes, just build a transition plate (called a baffle board) out of wood that converts from the 6x9 opening to the 6.5 and tweeter sized holes.

 
if built and designed properly, a ported can be just as good as a sealed box but with the pro of having extra output.
This is getting to be a pretty common misconception around here lately. Ported boxes have some advantages over sealed, such as more output and adjustable freq response. But they also have some disadvantages, such as group delay, a steeper roll off, and (usually) a more peaky response when placed inside a vehicle.

Dont get me wrong, I generally prefer ported setups for my own daily systems, but we cannot ignore the very real disadvantages they present to us when designing a system around one.

 
Ok so I was planning to get a set of SPR-17S and one of SWS-1043D

I went to Best Buy to see what they had, and the guy told me that since my original mounting location is 6x9, I would be "way better off" going with a set of SPR-69C , instead of mounting the components with tweeters in the 6x9 location.

What do you think is best?

 
Ok so I was planning to get a set of SPR-17S and one of SWS-1043DI went to Best Buy to see what they had, and the guy told me that since my original mounting location is 6x9, I would be "way better off" going with a set of SPR-69C , instead of mounting the components with tweeters in the 6x9 location.

What do you think is best?
I think: Don't go with what Best Buy says.

I know several companies make some speakers that are called 6x9 but really are a woofer and tweeter in a plate.

Amazon.com: Infinity 4629CFP 180W (Peak) 4 x 6 -Inch Custom Fit Two-Way Plate Speakers (Pair): Electronics

Kenwood - KFC-P680C

I know neither are 6x9's but it's what I could find in two minutes. I didn't choose these on SQ or SPL or price, but I did have some of the Infinity's and remember liking them.

 
I think: Don't go with what Best Buy says.
I know several companies make some speakers that are called 6x9 but really are a woofer and tweeter in a plate.

Amazon.com: Infinity 4629CFP 180W (Peak) 4 x 6 -Inch Custom Fit Two-Way Plate Speakers (Pair): Electronics

Kenwood - KFC-P680C

I know neither are 6x9's but it's what I could find in two minutes. I didn't choose these on SQ or SPL or price, but I did have some of the Infinity's and remember liking them.
I didn't know they made those! That is exactly what I had planned on doing if I get a component set, would this be a recommended way to mount them without cutting a hole in my door panels?

 
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raymonddd

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