making a sealed speaker box have ?

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Those splits will be gone if my math is right I was going off numbers I had and when I was making the box it wasn’t working.
rigjt now it’s 20 1/2” wide and with me running numbers it looks like 12 1/2” wide will give me the air space I need.
If not I will do as you say and glue and clamp over night to fix.

Honestly, wood glue and ¼" crown staples is the best thing to tack your box together with. Then, pre-drill your screw holes. With ¾" MDF you should use 2" - 2-¼" screws. A counter sink bit can also be used. Brad nails are cheap. I would suggest glue and then brad nailing every 2-3". Then, screw every 4-6". Siliconing the joints on the inside of the box is also a good idea, and cheap to do.

 

[JulesH 10+ year member]

I always thought that the glue is what is holding the box together. Nails, screws, clamps, whatever are just holding it for 24 hours while the glue dries. On a box with angles like yours, clamping is not really possible. Brad nails AND clamps work for me. Even after brad nailing, the clamps still pull the box tighter together and will make more glue squeeze out of the joints. This tells me brads alone is not enough. But for your box, with all the angles, screws seem like a great idea since clamps arent really possible.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I just want to make sure before I cut it all my dimensions are inside of the box.

The math is correct. The good thing about your particular sub is that it has a wide margin of sealed box size. So you are good to go.

 

[Gksportster]

Thank you Everyone glue was squeezing out of the joints I wiped a lot off it was running down the sides all over

 

[Gksportster]

Running the numbers as the box sits now I have 2539.758 cubic inches or 1.469768 cubic feet
That’s not enough to make the box a ported box right?
I cannot go no bigger that’s as big as the box can be.
if it is then what size of port and length of tube thank you kelly
Sorry for all the questions

 

[LsGuy]

I always thought that the glue is what is holding the box together. Nails, screws, clamps, whatever are just holding it for 24 hours while the glue dries. On a box with angles like yours, clamping is not really possible. Brad nails AND clamps work for me. Even after brad nailing, the clamps still pull the box tighter together and will make more glue squeeze out of the joints. This tells me brads alone is not enough. But for your box, with all the angles, screws seem like a great idea since clamps arent really possible.

You would be correct that the glue is what holds the box together. Coupled with the fact that screws don't hold very high in mdf anyway, I never use screws unless it's a prototype that I need to take back apart. Brad nails and glue alone won't be quite as tight, however as long as you use enough glue it won't make a difference because once that glue sets up inside the seam it is stronger than the MDF anyway. I glue, then clamp as tightly as I can, and then Brad nail. As I said the brads themselves won't pull it as tightly as clamps, but if you pull it tight with clamps first usually the brads will hold it there fine. I've also found that 24 hours isn't usually necessary. The glue may have a 24 hour cure time, so you wouldn't want to play the box until cured, but set time is usually much less. If I'm gluing and clamping without brads I'll usually leave it clamped for 4 or 5 hours.

 

[LsGuy]

Also of note, clamps can use used on this box without issue. You would clamp each piece one at a time, and before clamping pop 2 or 3 brad nails into the panel to prevent side shifting from angle clamping. Use bar clamps with rubber pads to help offset the angle.