Make me a design for a few bucks?

Beerdrnkr
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CarAudio.com Veteran
Does someone wanna make me a box design with the following info below for a couple bucks? I'd like to utilize the full 40" length to cut down on the depth at much as possible, doesn't really matter where the ports face but I'd like it to have as minimal port noise as possible. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

1. Car. Year, Make, Model:

2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara

2. Subs. Make, Model, Size, How many:

(1) 15" Sundown Audio Nightshade V.2

3. Power. How much power per sub:

2500wrms-3000wrms

4. Goal. SPL or SQ:

SQL

5. Sealed or ported:

Ported

6. Sub/port placement:

Sub rear Firing / Ports firing either direction

7. Max dimensions:

40" Wide x 20" Height x 27" Bottom Depth x 20" Top Depth

8. Desired NET vol and tuning(optional):

3.5c/ft at 32hz.

9. Finish:

Dark gray Carpet

11) Additional comments:

I would like to have a slanted back, double baffled front, rounded edges including port, Lightish blue painted port, and some extra bracing inside.

 
truth be told man i am sitting here trying it an with that slanted back it will be hard to tune it sloted it cause the port would be kinda small i think. your box would have to be at least gross 4.5cubes before displacement of sub an port.

i would suggest keeping it low an square like all others. especially if amps an batts are going back there cause when you put all that in man space starts disappearing quick with slanted boxes cause you used it all with the box.

right now i am gonna say about 35 x 18 x 20 that is more than enough space an 32 is low an nice so that what i am shooting for for ya. i should have it done on sketch up here in a bit i hope if i don't give up on it lol but its panning out to be pretty good if this is the design you wanna go with.

 
they do man an that was my next option for him too especially if he wants that slant. could do sub back port up i know 1 6' would tune it to like 34 or lower with about 15' of port

 
This is where it is conventional. Low tuned boxes usually require a long port. It's much easier to do that in a slot port than with aero ports. IMO.
I know where you are coming from but politely disagree to an extent.

With a basic slot port you need 12-16 sq.in. per cube (or 2 liters of displacement) whereas flared aeros can be 6-12 sq.in. thus reducing length by reducing needed port area.

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Though it is a lot easier to "elbow" a slot port than buying a connector for aeros. Don't think this would be needed though.

 
You can flare a slot easily to have the same effect. If you have a double baffle to can buy quarter round from home depot and use that.
True //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'm just a PSP aero fan boy lol. Use them a bunch. Hooked on their performance and aesthetics.

 
Sorry for the late reply, work and working on my new setup has been taking up all my time. That's some really good info. With Aero ports I'm just a little worried about port noise. I guess that's a risk in any ported box though unless you go kerfed? I was hoping to keep the slanted back just so it'd be right up against the rear seats and saving a tad bit of room but I might be able to go just square/rectangular with it and mount the sub amp in the gap between the box and seats (if that makes any sense to you guys). I would however really like to use the full 40-41" width to keep the sub as far back from the rear door as possible (might be a problem with the depth of the sub though). If you guys wanna pm me a couple designs you think might work, I'll throw a couple bucks your way. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

 
lol at the kerfed lol an port noise with aero's i kinda wonder do port noise really exists cause i never had that problem an i have tried different kids of ports an never had that problem out my trunk. but oh well.

 
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Beerdrnkr

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