Lots of System Questions!!! Please Help!!!

[bigrose 10+ year member]

Hello! I am a newbie on this site and this is my first post ever. I have been checking around a bunch and read lots of posts that have answered alot of my questions, but raised a few as well.

To start off, my car is a 2003 Infiniti G35 sedan w/Bose. I hate my Bose (No highs, no lows, you got Bose), and my 6 disc in-dash has some problems from time to time, but I cannot afford to get the JDM dash and a double din head unit at this time, so I am planning on keeping the OEM headunit and replacing everything else. Here are the components I currently have:

Phoenix Gold Linedriver 66

Audiocontrol LC6

MB Quart DSF 216 components

MB Quart DKE 116 co-axials

Alpine MRV-F540 4-channel amp

JL Audio 500/1

Old School Kicker Solobaric 15" Round sub.

Since all the equalizing and signal processing in my stock Bose stereo happens in the Bose amp, I am planning on cutting into the speaker wire before it gets to the amp in the trunk and running it through the Audiocontrol LC6 and then the Phoenix Gold Linedriver to boost the signal to my amps.

I have JL 2awg wire that I want to run to a distrobution block in the trunk to give each amp 4awg power and ground wire.

Questions that are plaguing me are as follows:

1) This is by far the most pressing issue I have... How bad are these MB Quart speakers I have? I bought them used without doing any reasearch on a whim like 6 months ago and I am having a hard time finding any good info on them. If they are as bad as I fear they are, please recommend me a good set of components... from the site I am thinking maybe the ID CTX65CS?? If I do go that route, what should I use for complementary rear speakers?? I mainly listen to hardcore music, sometimes a little hip hop or drum and bass, if that helps at all.

2) Will my Alpine amp run those speakers ok? I'm asking about either the MB Quart or the IDs. If anyone has any experience with that particular model amp that'd be great!

3) If I use a capacitor, should I run the 0awg wire to the capacitor then more 0awg wire to the distro block? This would be my first capacitor install.

4) This is kinda not a big deal, but... if anyone has a 0awg to 4awg distro block and/or an inline fuse holder for sale for a good deal, pm me.

Thanks guys for any help or answers you can give me. I have done basic installs before in my previous cars, but nothing with more than a 4awg amp kit and usually HU-subs-speakers-amp. Definietly never touched capacitors or come close to the pain this OEM integration is sure to be. If any clarifacation is necessary anywhere, let me know. Thanks!

-Eric

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[endofdays89 5,000+ posts]

Hello! I am a newbie on this site and this is my first post ever. I have been checking around a bunch and read lots of posts that have answered alot of my questions, but raised a few as well.
To start off, my car is a 2003 Infiniti G35 sedan w/Bose. I hate my Bose (No highs, no lows, you got Bose), and my 6 disc in-dash has some problems from time to time, but I cannot afford to get the JDM dash and a double din head unit at this time, so I am planning on keeping the OEM headunit and replacing everything else. Here are the components I currently have:

Phoenix Gold Linedriver 66

Audiocontrol LC6

MB Quart DSF 216 components

MB Quart DKE 116 co-axials

Alpine MRV-F540 4-channel amp

JL Audio 500/1

Old School Kicker Solobaric 15" Round sub.

Since all the equalizing and signal processing in my stock Bose stereo happens in the Bose amp, I am planning on cutting into the speaker wire before it gets to the amp in the trunk and running it through the Audiocontrol LC6 and then the Phoenix Gold Linedriver to boost the signal to my amps.

I have JL 2awg wire that I want to run to a distrobution block in the trunk to give each amp 4awg power and ground wire.

Questions that are plaguing me are as follows:

1) This is by far the most pressing issue I have... How bad are these MB Quart speakers I have? I bought them used without doing any reasearch on a whim like 6 months ago and I am having a hard time finding any good info on them. If they are as bad as I fear they are, please recommend me a good set of components... from the site I am thinking maybe the ID CTX65CS?? If I do go that route, what should I use for complementary rear speakers?? I mainly listen to hardcore music, sometimes a little hip hop or drum and bass, if that helps at all.

2) Will my Alpine amp run those speakers ok? I'm asking about either the MB Quart or the IDs. If anyone has any experience with that particular model amp that'd be great!

3) If I use a capacitor, should I run the 0awg wire to the capacitor then more 0awg wire to the distro block? This would be my first capacitor install.

4) This is kinda not a big deal, but... if anyone has a 0awg to 4awg distro block and/or an inline fuse holder for sale for a good deal, pm me.

Thanks guys for any help or answers you can give me. I have done basic installs before in my previous cars, but nothing with more than a 4awg amp kit and usually HU-subs-speakers-amp. Definietly never touched capacitors or come close to the pain this OEM integration is sure to be. If any clarifacation is necessary anywhere, let me know. Thanks!

-Eric

1. Yes, get the CTX's

2. Your amp needs to be around 100 rms, maybe a little more.

3. Fvck a capacitor

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

since you already have the product there's no harm in putting it in and trying it out to find out wether or not you like the sound. when it all comes down to it it's your ears that do the listening. you may want a lil more power but all in all you should be ok. as for the car i'm a firm believer on hit or miss in that category sometiems they help sometimes they don't. the 2 gauge you have should be fine with all the amps in my system all i use is 2 gauge and it's plenty. that oem should be fun to work with what do you plan on using for sound processing?

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

Questions that are plaguing me are as follows:

1) This is by far the most pressing issue I have... How bad are these MB Quart speakers I have? I bought them used without doing any reasearch on a whim like 6 months ago and I am having a hard time finding any good info on them. If they are as bad as I fear they are, please recommend me a good set of components... from the site I am thinking maybe the ID CTX65CS?? If I do go that route, what should I use for complementary rear speakers?? I mainly listen to hardcore music, sometimes a little hip hop or drum and bass, if that helps at all.

Since you have them, use them. If you think you are missing something in your musical content, you can always upgrade your MBQs later.

As for rear fill, if you have rear seat passengers, use it but keep the gain down. I hate rear fill and would rather spend as much money as possible on a good front stage! Hell, even a budget front stage beats rear fill any day of the week!

2) Will my Alpine amp run those speakers ok? I'm asking about either the MB Quart or the IDs. If anyone has any experience with that particular model amp that'd be great!

That should be more than enough power to run your existing speakers in the mean time. You can always upgrade your mids/highs amplifier later on!

3) If I use a capacitor, should I run the 0awg wire to the capacitor then more 0awg wire to the distro block? This would be my first capacitor install.

DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT waste your money on a capacitor. At a very minimum do the Big 3 (research on this site). If you can't do all three of them, at a minimum, upgrade your engine block to chassis AND negative battery terminal to chassis wires. You can skip the alternator wire and upgrade that one if you ever go to a high output alternator.

Others will argue with me, but the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery is already rated to carry the maximum current that a stock alternator can provide. IMHO upgrading this wire without changing the alternator is a moot point.

In lieu of getting a capacitor, I suggest you replace your main battery with a Kinetik, Optima, Stinger, etc...... I prefer Kinetik!

4) This is kinda not a big deal, but... if anyone has a 0awg to 4awg distro block and/or an inline fuse holder for sale for a good deal, pm me.

Sorry, can't help you there. I still have two more vehicles to upgrade and I can't spare any of my wire!

ETA: Just noticed that you listed Drum and Bass! I rock a lot of Chase & Status, Brookes Brothers, TC, High Contrast, Pendulum, and the list goes on!

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

1. Yes, get the CTX's

He already has the other speakers, shouldn't he at least try them first?

2. Your amp needs to be around 100 rms, maybe a little more.

You honestly think you can tell the difference between 80 watts and 100 watts RMS? I would venture to bet you good money that you would not be able to tell the difference!

3. Fvck a capacitor

At least you got one right

 

[bigrose 10+ year member]

since you already have the product there's no harm in putting it in and trying it out to find out wether or not you like the sound. when it all comes down to it it's your ears that do the listening. you may want a lil more power but all in all you should be ok. as for the car i'm a firm believer on hit or miss in that category sometiems they help sometimes they don't. the 2 gauge you have should be fine with all the amps in my system all i use is 2 gauge and it's plenty. that oem should be fun to work with what do you plan on using for sound processing?

First of all, thanks to everyone for the quick replys! I am amazed that it has only been a short time and I already have some help.

In terms of signal processing, that is a good question. I guess I was just planning on using the crossovers in the amps and the ones that come with the comps. What would you recommend?

In a perfect world, I was planning on having a JL Cleansweep as an LOC and equalizer and everything. I just happened to get a GREAT DEAL on the PG Linedriver and Audiocontrol LC6 ($20 for both!!) so I decided to check that route out.

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

see if you can get ahold of the dql8 from audiocontrol with the two things you got you may be able to find someone willing to trade.

 

[bigrose 10+ year member]

Gunz, one of the main reasons I need better sound is because when I listen to my music on my Bose, I feel like I am missing like 60% of the sound! I miss my Dieselboy, Dara and AK1200 man!! It just feels wrong to hear D&B with no bass!!

All my cars in the past, even my first 93 Pontiac Sunbird, have had a nice stereo that gets loud across all frequencies and sounds clear with good strong bass and now I have this car that I LOVE but the stock stereo is so pitiful as it sits that most nights on the way home from work I would rather listen to my exhaust than hear my shitty paper speakers try to be loud and hurt themselves in the process.

 

[bigrose 10+ year member]

see if you can get ahold of the dql8 from audiocontrol with the two things you got you may be able to find someone willing to trade.

Thanks alot bro!! I will check into that.

*If I end up going with what I have now and running it like I planned without another signal processor, how will it sound? Will I have problems? And could I add like another Audiocontrol piece?

 

[Horsemanwill 10+ year member]

you could add another piece if u want it's up to you . should sound fine maybe dunno 'm not the installer on the job lol

 

[bigrose 10+ year member]

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1263

Would this work by itself or in addition to my current setup? The only reason I ask is because the dql8 looks awesome but is super expensive! This piece looks like something similar but with less features for less money. Thanks!

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

The DQL-8 would take the place of your line output converter (ETA: the LC6) and give you some EQ capability. Adding an EQ to the works at a later point in time is always an option if you think you need it!

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

Gunz, one of the main reasons I need better sound is because when I listen to my music on my Bose, I feel like I am missing like 60% of the sound! I miss my Dieselboy, Dara and AK1200 man!! It just feels wrong to hear D&B with no bass!!
All my cars in the past, even my first 93 Pontiac Sunbird, have had a nice stereo that gets loud across all frequencies and sounds clear with good strong bass and now I have this car that I LOVE but the stock stereo is so pitiful as it sits that most nights on the way home from work I would rather listen to my exhaust than hear my shitty paper speakers try to be loud and hurt themselves in the process.

You are preaching to the choir on that one. I have a pair of JL Audio 10w3v2s and they can't reproduce anything below 50 Hz to save their lives in a sealed enclosure. I dāmn near took a claw hammer to them after being extremely disappointed at the way Tarantula sounded in my car!

 

[bigrose 10+ year member]

Thanks for all your help guys! I can't wait to get some time to put everything in and see how it sounds!