Deiimos
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I’m still confused on what’s working / isn’t. A lot to take in with your description / photos. It's a simple install, but none of us are there in person so it makes it a little more difficult.
Is the head unit powering on / producing sound to the factory speakers?
Is it just the subwoofer / amp you installed that is not working?
Notes from what I see.
The ground looks questionable. Paint / anti-rust coatings can make bolted on brackets a bad ground, so I’m not sure from what I see in the photos. Though it may not be an issue at all.
RCA cables; head unit appears to only have one RCA sub output, so an RCA Y splitter would be handy here. Maybe not 100% necessary, but I'd use one.
The little module in your second photo with heatshrink on it, with black, yellow, and blue wires coming out looks like a bypass delay unit for the parking brake wire. Check which wire the blue wire connects to on the head unit. Might just be the remote wire you want for the amp.
I don't think I need to add anything else about the wire nuts / head unit wiring, the others already made it clear.
Harbor Freight sells a dirt cheap multimeter, I got one 22 years ago as a young teen and it worked for reading basic voltage and resistance. Without a meter you are blind, especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. With it, you can see if the B+ and Ground are passing power, and if the remote terminal is getting power, and trace the circuit from there as needed. It doesn’t tell how solid the connection is, but when something is not powering on at all, you can find where the voltage is missing / lost. And of course the resistance / continuity checks can be handy as well.
I upgraded to better meters when I was able to, but these work and still very handy for light use like this, and not out much at $5. Take the battery out when not in use so it doesn't leak / destroy the meter, and the meter will last for years.
All the amp needs to turn on is, +12V / Ground, and +12V on the Remote terminal. Pretty simple to test if you can do so carefully and not short wires out.
Is the head unit powering on / producing sound to the factory speakers?
Is it just the subwoofer / amp you installed that is not working?
Notes from what I see.
The ground looks questionable. Paint / anti-rust coatings can make bolted on brackets a bad ground, so I’m not sure from what I see in the photos. Though it may not be an issue at all.
RCA cables; head unit appears to only have one RCA sub output, so an RCA Y splitter would be handy here. Maybe not 100% necessary, but I'd use one.
The little module in your second photo with heatshrink on it, with black, yellow, and blue wires coming out looks like a bypass delay unit for the parking brake wire. Check which wire the blue wire connects to on the head unit. Might just be the remote wire you want for the amp.
I don't think I need to add anything else about the wire nuts / head unit wiring, the others already made it clear.
Harbor Freight sells a dirt cheap multimeter, I got one 22 years ago as a young teen and it worked for reading basic voltage and resistance. Without a meter you are blind, especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. With it, you can see if the B+ and Ground are passing power, and if the remote terminal is getting power, and trace the circuit from there as needed. It doesn’t tell how solid the connection is, but when something is not powering on at all, you can find where the voltage is missing / lost. And of course the resistance / continuity checks can be handy as well.
I upgraded to better meters when I was able to, but these work and still very handy for light use like this, and not out much at $5. Take the battery out when not in use so it doesn't leak / destroy the meter, and the meter will last for years.
7-Function Digital Multimeter
Amazing deals on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
All the amp needs to turn on is, +12V / Ground, and +12V on the Remote terminal. Pretty simple to test if you can do so carefully and not short wires out.