Looking to have my cake and eat it too: High Output and SQ with a small footprint

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

High excursion triple stack magnetic motor with copper shorting rings. Essentially a ULX motor. 92.2dB @10Hz, 96.2Hz@12.5Hz, 102.1Hz@16Hz... Sealed @ 23 H x 20.5 W x 22 D, driver weighs ~70lbs I believe... Can provide more info if curious.

good info exept you forgot the make and model

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Why don't you get another one of your home theater subs and put it in your car if that kind of response is what you're looking for //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Or pics.

Was this custom built or store bought?

 

[fly_marlin]

All good stuff! I don't have a hard budget, but am trying to figure out where to 'not skimp' (i.e. sub/amp/install). So far it seems like the install is going to be the most challenging (and maybe most expensive) as there are great subs and amps out there, but it all comes down to enclosures/install. Keep the ideas coming and I'm going to find a decent installer up here in New Hampshire!

You have a very good budget and you really shouldn't skimp out on anything as your system is really as good as the weakest link in it. Are you putting in an aftermarket deck into it?

One of the bigger difference in car audio is positioning. Car acoustics are harder to adjust to. There's road noise, car parts beating against each other, etc. Also, you don't have the luxury to move anything once it's installed. If you're coming from an audiophile direction, you'll quickly learn making the car sound as good as your room is much harder. You'll want to make a decision as to whether to get some basic processing in a nice deck or also invest in a sound processor. Making a car more acoustically friendly is also important. You don't want your doors, trunk, etc rattling and compromising the sound of your system. This would be part of the install as you'll want to get some good deadening in the doors and trunk.

Additionally, get the spec of your current alternator as that will largely dictate your system wattage if you don't want to upgrade to an HO alt.

 

[TooPoor]

Pic in my avatar. Custom built.

I'm not looking for a 18" sub for the truck. I was obviously joking about looking for that type of output when I'm clearly looking at 12's ...

 

[fly_marlin]

Pic in my avatar. Custom built.
I'm not looking for a 18" sub for the truck. I was obviously joking about looking for that type of output when I'm clearly looking at 12's ...

You'd be surprised how loud a pair of 12s can get in a car. Look into 1 15" - cheaper and you'll save money.

 

[TooPoor]

Dual 12's could work on either side of the trunk? Or I'd probably get best results in a single enclosure? Maybe I can get away with an enclosure that sits against the rear seats?

 

[fly_marlin]

Dual 12's could work on either side of the trunk? Or I'd probably get best results in a single enclosure? Maybe I can get away with an enclosure that sits against the rear seats?

Against the rear seats is what most people do. You can have it in the corner on one side and then have the rest of the trunk for cargo. If done right, a single 12" can be sufficient for you. If you have the space, do a 15".

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

good info exept you forgot the make and model

Think it's called Mach 5 UXL-18

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

iST Ltd.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

A single 12" woofer ported is plenty capable of 140dB on 1000W in a car. If you don't intent to invest a lot of space "pair" of woofers should be right out of your vocabulary here. Besides there's no need to go huge and have to dump more money into larger and larger amps and electrical upgrades.

IMO being able to tune below 40hz is great for home theater/movies but pretty useless in a car if you listen to actual music (like the kind with actual instruments and played at normal speed).

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Tune to 30Hz should be close to that of the HT sub.

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

I'm biased, but my type x and IDMAX 12 got pretty low and loud while being very clean. Ported 2 cubes at 30hz on about 1.2k.

On the other hand my HT sub gets much much lower on a lot less power.

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