Looking to build a new system in nearly 10 years

brafferty

CarAudio.com Elite
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Sorry if this post is lengthy, but I've been out of "the game" since high school, so I may be a bit behind in terms of technology.

Back when I build my first and only system, (Full build on profile), it was basically a pair of components upfront at 100 rms and 2 sundown sa 12s ported ona JBL 1400.1

This thing was great and I remember always wanting more SPL, however, now that I am older and work in audio engineering and producing, I kinda have to save my hearing. But im ready to run another build. So basically I'm hoping you guys can chime in with some key factors I address...

My current car is a 2010 Subaru Forester, I assume ill need to toss a bigger alt. into it which is no biggy. Really what it comes down to is what speakers/companies are producing killer speakers for around 200-300 a pair? Preferable Component. also a nice amp to feed them. no budget on the amp, would honestly get a b2 again if people recommended it.

With the subs is where i feel most of this thread will focus on. What kind of sub setup can i run? Id love to save as much trunk space as possible, but im currently debating if i should try and run some 8's or 10s , and if so , sealed or ported. I feel like i should focus most on the Sound quality style build for the hearing aspect, but i do want to feel a little rumble in the tummy when the bass hits. The music i listen to mainly is Dubstep and metal, so i would tune to 33-40 hz id assume? I feel like it would be hard to get that rumble while also saving trunk space, so if needed i would invest in a "fancy" box design and have someone build it. Would prefer to spend no more than 300 per sub. Amp to also feed them with no budget.

And a head unit with the correct pre-outs and potentially navigation features (I've never delved into this with a car).

I apologize in advance for the length and if i missed anything important here, i just know the longer the thread the fewer people read.

Glad to be back, lets's get this started!
 
I think Crutchfield is #1, but I think this place is in the top 3 or at least top 5.

Here's the setup I keep recommending right in that price range.


I look forward to seeing some of the other answers on the subs, but if you want sound quality with your subs, just want to enhance the music, don't want to risk your hearing, and want to save space, then a smaller sealed enclosure, and a nice single 10" should be plenty. If you want to rattle the windows then get two of em. (My advice on that is going to remain basic, because I know some have much better).

The head units are pretty easy to get everything you could want. Anything new should have two or three preouts. A higher preout voltage provides a better signal, 4v or 5v, as long as you don't have some rare amp that can't handle 5v. Getting it with navigation is the one thing that is going to take it from about $100-$150 up to plan for $1k. If you're cool with that, it kind of depends on what you know about those: what type of navigation you prefer, and how much you want to spend on the quality of the maps and display features.
 
If you liked JBL before, Harmon International still makes good products all around, I run JBL components in a couple vehicles here with good results and their amps have always been reliable for me.

As far as subwoofer, if space is a top concern just throw efficiency out the window, get a really beefy sub, and cram it into a too-small box and buy a bigger amplifier. Not sure what sub that would really hang with 1200W and perform OK in a sealed box comes in at the 300$ price point though...

Head unit technology has come a long way and prices on stuff with a lot of features are very reasonable these days. I've had great luck with the Sony lineup over the last many years, but Alpine, Kenwood/JVC, Pioneer are still on the up and up. Figure out what precisely you want for features and give Crutchfield a call and they can help narrow down your options based on your goals.
 




I would look at a Glue and Screw Sub ported enclosure from GP Audio.
Look at GP Audio for Big3 Kits and Amplifier Kits in OFC, Even Sky High Audio, CT Sounds may even have a great deal. The 80x4 will work very nicely on the Kappas
 
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so for starts you guys think 1200 watts is what i should stick with ? is this one of those situations where a bass knob could be ideal . although in the past ive never used one that wasnt basically just an on/off switch.
 
For sub, I recommend going true infinite baffle. You get to keep just about all of your trunk space AND sound great doing it (if you do it right.) But, if you're a guy who likes to roll with the windows down, you'll want to be mindful of that with cranking your bass on a IB setup
 
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