Looking for build suggestions.

[LoudSound]

build your music first, then do subwoofer.

$800 isn't a whole lot to spend on a system, should buy you wire, dynamat and some screws..

 

[jjcav84]

Thank you. I did factor in the wiring and head unit install kits and extras except the box into my $700 total. I've never spent more than $1000 or so on a system for a car and I've always had good results. I'm definitely not an audiophile or a bass head. What would you suggest though for the $800 if I skipped on the subwoofer until later?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thank you. I did factor in the wiring and head unit install kits and extras except the box into my $700 total. I've never spent more than $1000 or so on a system for a car and I've always had good results. I'm definitely not an audiophile or a bass head. What would you suggest though for the $800 if I skipped on the subwoofer until later?

I wouldnt skip the sub. That would mean trying to force your door speaker to handle the bass frequencies in the mean time which puts unnecessary workload on them. When you have stuff on there you can easily let each part of the equipment specialize in what they do. Box should only cost you 35 bucks for a sheet of ply/mdf and some glue+screws.

PS: Definitely dont spend money on an overpriced brand like dynamat when stinger roadkill is much cheaper and thicker/stronger.

 

[k5james 10+ year member]

CLD tiles are tough to be for price/performance...

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld-tiles%E2%84%A2

You don't need to cover everything with them just...

"enough CLD Tile™ to cover 25% of the surface distributed over the central 50%-75% of the panel."

 

[jjcav84]

I wouldnt skip the sub. That would mean trying to force your door speaker to handle the bass frequencies in the mean time which puts unnecessary workload on them. When you have stuff on there you can easily let each part of the equipment specialize in what they do. Box should only cost you 35 bucks for a sheet of ply/mdf and some glue+screws.
PS: Definitely dont spend money on an overpriced brand like dynamat when stinger roadkill is much cheaper and thicker/stronger.

Thanks I'm thinking about stepping up to the IDQ65 and getting a better amp for them later.

 

[jjcav84]

I'm now heavily leaning towards going with and IDQ 12. Is there anything better in the $200 range?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

build your music first, then do subwoofer. $800 isn't a whole lot to spend on a system, should buy you wire, dynamat and some screws..

800 is quite a lot if you factor in and consider some new people stepping into the car audio world and barely make any $$.

You wanna know how much I can put together for 800 bucks? Lots. In fact, I'm going to be putting a small build which is a budget build in my s10 this summer, keeping it around 600 bucks. I know that's more than the 800 but still.....gotta think spending it wisely.

 

[jjcav84]

Thanks Boomin. I was a little disheartened to read that especially since I just graduated college almost a year and a half ago and I'm struggling to find my footing in the real world being swamped with debt. So $800 is A LOT to me. I hope I can make it work. I'm sure I can.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I couldnt do much of anything with $800. Everything I want to do from this point on is more then that for any stage. I could use some new fuse blocks.

 

[dsw1204]

I'm now heavily leaning towards going with and IDQ 12. Is there anything better in the $200 range?

This may help you stay within your budget. Maybe look at DD Audio LE-M12:

LE-M Enclosures

You get the sub and the box designed for the driver all for only $269. I've heard nothing but great things about DD. Check them out.