Looking for a 500wRMS x1 @4ohms amp, suggestions?

[td5turbo 10+ year member]

I am picking up a 12" Dayton Titanic and its a SVC 4ohm and has an rms rating of 500wRMS.

So I am looking for an amp that is efficient (dont want it to drain my electrical system...everything is going to be stock, its a subaru..runs 13.8v so an amp that is underrated would be good too).

I also would like to spend less than $200 so that may put a block on alot of god amps.

So any suggestions for a good amp that is efficient and cheap?

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[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

any 2 channel basically in that power range.

 

[td5turbo 10+ year member]

stupid question, but do you loose any performance by going with a two channel bridged vs. a mono amp?

And, do Class D amps come in multiple channel configurations? haha, sorry for the stupid questions.

 

[massiveaudiocw 10+ year member]

Sundown SAX-100.2 will do about that much power bridget @ 4 ohms and you should be able to find one used for that price. Or if you wana spend a couple extra bucks you could go new. Another option is the PG Xenon 600.1 that does 600rms 1-4 ohms.

Corey

 

[Macklessdaddy 10+ year member]

if you have the space.http://cgi.ebay.com/Cadence-TXA-3002-2-Channel-600W-Car-Audio-Amplifier_W0QQitemZ110170015450QQihZ001QQcategoryZ39732QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

[BringDaBoom 10+ year member]

JL 500/1. It will not dissapoint. 500 watts continuous, no matter the ohms, or the voltage. Clean, true 500 watts.

 

[Macklessdaddy 10+ year member]

JL 500/1. It will not dissapoint. 500 watts continuous, no matter the ohms, or the voltage. Clean, true 500 watts.

man hush

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

So I am looking for an amp that is efficient (dont want it to drain my electrical system...everything is going to be stock, its a subaru..runs 13.8v so an amp that is underrated would be good too).

At that power level I think you're handcuffing yourself worrying about efficiency. It's just not enough power for 20-30% to make much difference.

There are some multi-channel class D's though.

http://lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2X300D

here's a Zed Audio a/b that's an excellent amp. If it stays around $150 it would be a great buy. It's significantly under-rated at 360w. Delvryboy ran some tests on one a while back and SAYS he got 1008w bridged at 2 ohms out of it -- it's not even supposed to be stable at that impedance.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lanzar-Optidrive-OPTI200-2-Amp-by-ZED-AUDIO_W0QQitemZ150174510041QQihZ005QQcategoryZ39732QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

There's no difference btw a mono vs a bridged 2 ch. There is SOME debate that a class a/b sounds better than D, but when running sub the arguement doesn't apply.

 

[td5turbo 10+ year member]

OK, I am still confused about the "stable" part.

Like when it says "800wRMS @ 2ohms and 500wRMS @4ohms" then "2ohms stable" does that mean it doesnt like to run 4ohm loads?

Also, how do I run it was 4ohms? or like if, say, I bought a MA Audio or Kenwood amp that can run 1 ohm, 2 ohm, and 4ohms, do I just plug in the sub and it will know what load is across the coils?

I think these are my choices:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MA-Audio-HK1000D-Amp-Class-D-1CH-Mono-Amplifier-NR_W0QQitemZ110188833843QQihZ001QQcategoryZ39739QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

(600x1...too powerful for the dayton titanic?..and is it a Class D? like are my light going to dim with this amp?)

http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-600w-RMS-2-CHANNEL-COMPETITION-CAR-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ270181356452QQihZ017QQcategoryZ39732QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KAC-9103D-1800W-MONO-CLASS-D-AMPLIFIER-NEW-2007_W0QQitemZ250184926381QQihZ015QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-KENWOOD-KAC-9102D-1700w-MONO-CAR-AMPLIFIER-BASS-AMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38638QQihZ017QQitemZ270183129595QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/LANZAR-CLASS-D-MONO-BLOCK-DIGITAL-CAR-AMP-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ230189211434QQihZ013QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

so many choices!

I just want something thats cheap, reliable and efficient.

 

[valter 10+ year member]

Please let me know if you want JL 500/1 for $200 shipped to continental US which is in rough cosmetic shape //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[td5turbo 10+ year member]

Also looking at a Power Acoustik amp:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9582_Power+Acoustik+Reactor+REACT1-1800.html

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

OK, I am still confused about the "stable" part.
Like when it says "800wRMS @ 2ohms and 500wRMS @4ohms" then "2ohms stable" does that mean it doesnt like to run 4ohm loads?

no - it's like saying a car can do 140 at full throttle, and 70 at 1/2. At 4 ohms it's just not running as hard.

Also, how do I run it was 4ohms? or like if, say, I bought a MA Audio or Kenwood amp that can run 1 ohm, 2 ohm, and 4ohms, do I just plug in the sub and it will know what load is across the coils?

It's not really the "right" way to think of it, but to answer your question - yes.

The amp produces X amount of voltage regardless of what load you wire to it (as long as it's stable at that load). The load determines how much current is delivered, and Power(watts)=Volts X Amps

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MA-Audio-HK1000D-Amp-Class-D-1CH-Mono-Amplifier-NR_W0QQitemZ110188833843QQihZ001QQcategoryZ39739QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

I don't personally think very highly of MA. I don't think it will give you 500w at 4 ohms - you should be able to do better for that money.

(600x1...too powerful for the dayton titanic?..and is it a Class D? like are my light going to dim with this amp?)

http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-600w-RMS-2-CHANNEL-COMPETITION-CAR-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ270181356452QQihZ017QQcategoryZ39732QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

600 should be fine for any quality 500w sub. You may see some slight dimming at or near full power, but it depends on the size/condition of your stock charging system. It shouldn't be an issue.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KAC-9103D-1800W-MONO-CLASS-D-AMPLIFIER-NEW-2007_W0QQitemZ250184926381QQihZ015QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-KENWOOD-KAC-9102D-1700w-MONO-CAR-AMPLIFIER-BASS-AMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38638QQihZ017QQitemZ270183129595QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

They look good on paper, and the price is right, but it seems like a lot of people report having problems with them. I don't know for sure though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/LANZAR-CLASS-D-MONO-BLOCK-DIGITAL-CAR-AMP-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ230189211434QQihZ013QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Quality amp for the money IMO - depends on how you feel about refurbs.

 

[BassBallin]

JL 500/1. It will not dissapoint. 500 watts continuous, no matter the ohms, or the voltage. Clean, true 500 watts.

x2 there was someone selling a 500/1 for 250 i think

 

[BassBallin]

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268523&highlight=500%2F1

 

[Kold_Killa 10+ year member]

I think the CADENCE TXA300.2 is a no brainer... I would buy straight from cadence though as it is the same price, and has a 2 year warranty.

http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=125&idproduct=382

600watts would go great with that Dayton, and I doubt you will notice dimming... if you do it will be minimal