Little help please :)

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ZeromusX

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I am fairly new to car audio. I installed a Dual Amp and Subwoofer myself without any trouble. I know nothing about the specifics behind all of this. I figured since the sub and amp were the only two being sold there it would be compatible. I upgraded my subs to 2 12" Alpine Type-E's. I just bought this amp;

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-XM-1652Z-Amplifier-Xplod-2-channel/dp/B000PH02A6

and installed it just about an hour ago. Can someone please tell me if the amp is too powerful or not powerful enough to get maximum efficiency out of my subs. There is a noticeable difference in the power coming from my box. I just want to make sure I don't damage something. I plan on upgrading again around income tax time but it will be in a new car and will probably have it professionally done. Thanks in advance!

 
Sorry to post in your forum, but I need help. Ok so here's my problem, I have 1000 watt Sony Xplod amp it was working just perfectly fine on the way to work today. It ends up going into power protection cause I was playing it so loud, I get that but now when my amp won't even cut on anymore at all! I didn't touch anything at all, I've checked my fuses on the amp, under the hood, speaker wires are connected properly, ground wire is fine, literally everything is fine when I checked it. It was professionally installed but the amp won't cut on anymore at all won't even go to power protection. Is my amp fried? What do I do?

Thanks

 
Sorry to post in your forum, but I need help. Ok so here's my problem, I have 1000 watt Sony Xplod amp it was working just perfectly fine on the way to work today. It ends up going into power protection cause I was playing it so loud, I get that but now when my amp won't even cut on anymore at all! I didn't touch anything at all, I've checked my fuses on the amp, under the hood, speaker wires are connected properly, ground wire is fine, literally everything is fine when I checked it. It was professionally installed but the amp won't cut on anymore at all won't even go to power protection. Is my amp fried? What do I do? Thanks
Grab a multimeter, if you don't have one get one at harbor freight for $5 (it'll be enough for this application). Test the voltage at the bat+ and remote amp terminals. Set it to DC voltage, put the red probe on either the bat+ or remote and the black at the ground terminal. The bat+ should be about 11-14 depending on if your car is running. The remote should be around 12 with the head unit on. If you've got both those things the amp should at least turn on.

 
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ZeromusX

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