Lightup switch on remote wire

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

So I've got these switches, if I have it just hooked up in a straight loop, positive to positive negative to negative, if I turn the switch on, the switches light turns on. If I turn the switch off the switches light turns off.

So I take that negative wire, and send it to my amp's remote turn on socket. I turn on the switch, and the amp turns on, I turn off the switch and the amp turns off, great. But, the light doesn't turn on at all anymore, which I would really like for it to turn on when its in the on position (indicating to me my amp is on).

I'm assuming what causes this is the input impedence of the amp? Any of you electrical experts have any suggestions for me to get the desired effect I'm looking for? I've tried running a separate wire to ground the switch, but that just makes it so the light will turn on, but the amp wont. I could use some help asap

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[Anniku989 10+ year member]

Positive to positive (remote coming from the HU), negative going to amp, and ground to ground. I did the same thing (put ground to amp instead of ground, and left acc blank) and mine didn't light up either

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

Positive to positive (remote coming from the HU), negative going to amp, and ground to ground. I did the same thing (put ground to amp instead of ground, and left acc blank) and mine didn't light up either

Not sure I understand what you mean, run a second wire from the negative of the switch to a straight ground? I tried that and it lights up the switch but no longer turns the amp on

 

[bunkerking09 10+ year member]

on my "killswitch" i have 3 spots for wires...

1. for ground from the HU

2. for the remote from the HU

3. for remote running to the amp

should be pretty easy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

That should work //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

on my "killswitch" i have 3 spots for wires...
1. for ground from the HU

2. for the remote from the HU

3. for remote running to the amp

should be pretty easy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Thats essentially what I have, my question is why does having the amp in the circuit mean the light stops coming on, vs by just grounding that same wire that should go to the amp causes the light to work properly

 

[Anniku989 10+ year member]

How many prongs are on the back of the switch?

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

if it has 3 conections u should have a pos ground and load and wire it up like explained above and you should be good to go

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

How many prongs are on the back of the switch?

3, I'm not using the remote one, all that does when I hook it up is make it so the light stays on whether its in the on or off position (which is how it was intended to be I'm pretty sure), but again...when I put the amp into the circuit...the LIGHT BULB ISN'T GETTING ENOUGH POWER TO LIGHT UP, everything else works just how I expect it to...i have no problem getting the amp to turn on the way it should.

if I take the amp out of the circuit, the light works the way it should and lights up when it should. Put the amp back in, and the light bulb doesn't light up

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

I dont think you guys are getting it...I know how a switch works...my theory is that because the amp has a high input impedence most likely, it is causing less current to pass through the circuit than the switch needs to light up. Is this possible?

 

[bunkerking09 10+ year member]

no, the resistance happens AFTER it gets to the amp, i really doubt its that

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

run a pos from your battery or a pos source to the switch, a ground to the switch and connect your remote wire to the switch and you should be all set

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

any pics?

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

no, the resistance happens AFTER it gets to the amp, i really doubt its that

Hmm...what happens when you have lets say a 20 ohm and a 1000 ohm load wired in series with eachother? Do they each get their respective amounts of current still? How can you be ******* multiple amounts of power or current through the same wire at the same time? It'd have to be the same current going through both loads wouldn't it? Which means voltage would have to change? Which means a 20 ohm load will have to significantly step down voltage in order to keep current flow the same as through the 1kohm load, which means in terms of my amp/switch, the amp is a several thousand ohm load, and my switch is a 24 (i checked), so lets say back to my original example, if we started with 12volts, the 20 ohm load sees 2.88 volts while the biggest load sees the full 12 volts, no?

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

^....yea that makes sense...and would explain it. current stays the same when they're wired in series, and since total power can't change, when impedence changes, voltage changes. The biggest load will control how much total current can pass, and each smaller load will pass the same amount of current, but a smaller load needs less voltage to pass the same current, causing it to step down the voltage at that point. Which is why my switch would see barely any voltage compared to the amp seeing the full 12.

Now, is there any way around this? I want the switch to behave as it does when I take the amp out of the circuit, but i want it to do that, with the amp in the circuit.