Lightning Audio? *Brace for Backlash*

[slicks5150 10+ year member]

but dude really if thats all you can afford and cant get anymore cheddar than just get it and bump for what you can bump . . .for now and when you can work and get some money coming in than by then you will have read a lot on here and you will know what to get. It's a harsh world to have to go without bass!!!!!!!

 

[DBfan187 5,000+ posts]

invest in the Storm series, or atleast the Strike.

 

[Do_ 10+ year member]

I don't need to hit 140+ dB lol... I just want a subwoofer. It's really cheap, simple, it won't need a big amp and if it breaks, oh well, I coulda spent it on some food at Wendys or something.

When I do get a job and a good income, I want a single RE MT... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

Things are amazing. It would completely explode the body panels off my car.

 

[luvinthebass 5,000+ posts]

**** man bass withdrawl ***** lol. 2 days without bass now. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif get my paycheck on tuesday gonna put a nice system in my car, can't wait! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[MrWizzard 10+ year member]

Build a BandPass box for that thing, it might help... i had two 10" 30wrms FULL Range speakers in a bandpass with guessed dimentions, and 4" ports... i just cut the ports to where it sounded best, and the thing bumped to my surprise! i was like Woah! WTF... hehe. I gave em like 50 wrms each.... i was expecting way less but it hit hard enough to vibrate the mirrors in the car, hehe. There wasent very much excursion neither at full power in a bandpass, so long as the coil can take the power you could probably give that LA sub a bit more than rater power....

I did eventually blow one of the speakers in that bandpass i made with 100wrms, but it burnt the coil, even at 100wrms the speakers had little excusion. In free air, well, 20 watts would of poped em probably, lol.

btw, i think i just saw a Pyle in a bandpass for like $30 on ebay, hehe.

 

[Do_ 10+ year member]

It finally came! In a box so packing taped up I had to cut the entire box apart and surgically remove the subwoofer. Anyhow, it looks pretty cool and I am in posession of my very first subwoofer! I am trying to figure where to go from here. Sunday I will be able to go to the flea market for an amp but right now I'm working on the box. 1.5cuft for this subwoofer should be plenty? Also I am interested in knowing how to port this thing. I was thinking I could copy the slot port design of the Peavey Amp I took apart before. It's basically a subwoofer in a .9cuft box with a slot port along the bottom. Also I was wondering about how you mount these? The black gasket is on the inside. Do I mount them from the inside of the box or from the outside? Will the lip of the subwoofer be outside the box or will nothing be outside of the box? One other question is about the actual holes in the gasket and basket. The gasket's cut outs are not lined up with the baskets holes very well. Can I go through a little bit of the gasket to put bolts through? I wish I could take pictures but my good computer died and I'm on an older one without the camera capability.

 

[Raven 10+ year member]

Whoa, let's tackle that one at a time..

Sunday I will be able to go to the flea market for an amp but right now I'm working on the box.

Better to look in the classifieds. Here, SiN, SSA, Carstereo.com, ANYWHERE but a flea market.

1.5cuft for this subwoofer should be plenty? Also I am interested in knowing how to port this thing.

You were doing good until you mentioned "port". 1.5 cubes sealed would be great for a 12. Ported, not so great. Try 1.5 sealed first, if you don't like it, get new plans and cannibalize the box. =)

Also I was wondering about how you mount these? The black gasket is on the inside.

Gasket is on the inside? You mount it to baffle, the hole that looks like the 12 will fit in it. It will fit only two ways, with the motor / magnet inside the box, or with it outside the box. Use whichever sounds better. Don't worry about extra holes in the baffle itself, or even whichever gasket you're drilling through.

 

[Do_ 10+ year member]

Alright, 1.5 Sealed will be fine. I was wondering about a slot port or something because a few people had mentioned it earlier. I wish I could take a picture with the camera to show what I meant about how to mount it. There's some black soft stuff, the gasket, on the outside of the subwoofer. Do I mount with that against the wood inside the box or do I mount with that outside the box and the basket flush against the outside of the wood?

 

[Raven 10+ year member]

The gasket on the outside of the basket WAS a very practical thing in the past when invert mounting subs was the norm. Nowadays, not so necessary.

See the attachment. Are those what you are talking about? With one, the gasket is used, in the other, it serves no real purpose.

I should also mention any other way of mounting would involve building the box around the woofer, which really isn't practical.

 

[Do_ 10+ year member]

I got a flea market amp. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif I found a Jensen 400w 4 channel amp for 15$ at the flea market. This will be nice because I can then power my two rear speakers from it as well for a little bit extra sound in the cabin. Anyhow I went out and tested it and amazingly all 4 channels work! It was a huge gamble but it works. Anyhow I went and built a box, and now I have it set up on the floor of my dining room attached to a 12 volt car battery charger just for testing purposes until I can get it hooked up in my car. I'm wondering about the wiring of the high level inputs since I'm gonna need to run half the amp high range and half the amp low range. it has 6 little prongs sticking out of "High Level Input". I could see 4 coming out because LR of front and rear but what are the other 2? Anyhow here are some pictures:

 

[Raven 10+ year member]

What's the model / specs on the Jensen? If it is a really old Jensen, you may have lucked out. If it's a new one, well, you're only out $15. =)

Unless your HU specifically has a non-fading sub out, just get two RCA Y splitters and call it good. The time you save will be well worth the money. If you're not willing to do that, then you will probably have to run all 4 channels off high input, which involves more wire splitting.

How is the crossover on that Jensen?

 

[btnhfan 5,000+ posts]

Yeah 2 of the 12's hitting 140 somthin is horrible

That means absolutley nothing

 

[Raven 10+ year member]

That means absolutley nothing

If it was an install anyone is capable of, it could be. But I bet it was more like 60hz+ bandpass enclosure in a uber-deadened hatchback with enough power that the subs would only last through one burp. =\

 

[CRXBMPN 5,000+ posts]

OR it could have been on a jacked audio control meter at the kick, so it wouldnt need to be 'uber deadened'.

learn.

 

[Raven 10+ year member]

It was an example. =\ You know, optimum conditions for an SPL reading....