LC7i not normalizing bass?

[Stingerssx 10+ year member]

Ok, so I have a 2012 Accord with the premium sound system and navi.

The stock 8" sub, well, it's just not enough.

There wasn't enough bass range, and it just was weak.

So I bought a Kicker LOC, connected that to the sub connector, and installed an amp and sub.

One pair of wires went to the sub, so I just connected both inputs of the LOC to the one factory sub output.

At this point, the amp and sub brands are not important.

As the stock stereo system goes, the bass reaches maximum with the volume around 15. Then it rolls off. It almost disappears above vol @ 25.

Still, not a full range of bass. Meaning that the kick drums punch would come more from the 6.5s than the sub. The sub really shines over a VERY small range, under vol 15. But still rolls off after that.

So I bought a Soundstream Bx10x (their version of the Epicenter). All that did was make the bass muddy. Still, not a full sub bass range, and still rolled off.

So I bought the LC7i. Installed that with the factory sub output to channel 3.

Still the same. Maybe a little better sound, but major roll off.

So I got a bright idea: Maybe the sub output is just telling the LC7i, (or whatever LOC would be installed) that the volume stops there?

So I connected the factory rear speakers to the main input on the LC7i.

After every change I made, from installing the amp and sub, to installing the LC7i, I tested the sound in my driveway, Not moving. I've even had the engine running. When I tested it like this, it sounded great. Meaning powerful deep bass. But then the next day I drive to work and it happens all over again.

Well, this last change, when I hooked up the rears, I went for a drive. And still the same thing.

Before I started collecting things to install the system, I did a bunch of research. Everybody was talking about the ANC. How it needs to be disconnected because it will feedback. But nobody had the premium sound system. Navi, yes on some.

I finally read a thread where they were talking about what I wanted to do, just add the amp to the sub output. And someone said something about if there is a stock sub, the ANC shouldn't be a problem.

I have had NO PROBLEMS what-so-ever with feedback or any kind of noise for that matter.

But I'm wondering if the problem that I'm having involves the ANC? Maybe the ANC detects the loud bass, and cuts it?

I've tried turning off the ANC through the diag mode, but still, no change at all.

Anybody possibly know what's going wrong?

Thanks.

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[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

what do u have amp gain set at 100%?, set it at 40%.. idk if running loc off factory sub wires works, if gain is to high thats the problem, other than that could not be getting enough volts.. u can try loc off rear speaker wire instead..

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

what do u have amp gain set at 100%?, set it at 40%.. idk if running loc off factory sub wires works, if gain is to high thats the problem, other than that could not be getting enough volts.. u can try loc off rear speaker wire instead..

other peeps will will reply tomorrow..

 

[Stingerssx 10+ year member]

Actually, the amp gain is set at about 10-15%.

And the LC7i is at half way.

And I did hook up the rear speakers to the LOC on the MAIN input.

Last night after I typed the above, I went out and moved the rear speaker inputs from the MAIN to CH2. Still the same. Changed the "AUTO" jumper from off to on. Still no change.

Then ran the RCAs from the CH2 output. Lost all bass.

Just trying different things out.

 

[llebcire]

I have an 08 Accord Coupe with Premium (no navi, shouldn't matter) and while my bass also seems to have the strongest output between 15 and 20 on the volume, it certainly doesn't disappear after this range. I've adjusted my outputs accordingly for playing at 28 and the drawback is my system can sound "boomy" with my family in the car when the volume is lower.

For starters, I did physically disconnect both ANC mics - one is under the rear deck and one is in the sunroof/interior lighting overhead control module.

I'm using the high-level inputs on my amp to convert the output after the factory amplifier. For channels 1 - 4 the amp has a built in converter and for the sub I made a DIY converter using resistors.

I'll be installing a LCQ-1 in the next week or so, planning on using all 6 inputs then summing and I don't assume I'll lose any bass.

-Eric

 

[strawsy]

It sounds like you just need to adjust the settings to your liking. I just installed an lc2i for the first time a few weeks ago. It took some time to figure out how to adjust it cause mine didn't sound right at first. I turned all the settings almost all the way up. I set it with a dd1 so I know it's set maximum and not clipping. If you have too much bass then you can adjust the threshold and it will not kick in accubass until a certain volume.

 

[Stingerssx 10+ year member]

llebcire : I have that problem too with the bass being too boomy (or louder than the mids and highs) at lower volumes. Initially, with the Kicker passive LOC, I tried leaving it that way, then when the volume was lower, bring the SUB down on the head unit. That kind of helped, but it was annoying having to keep adjusting the SUB level all the time. But still, when I get around 25, the sub bass almost disappears. This is why I went with the LC7i (active LOC). Also, down the road, if I want to, I can add more amps and change all speakers. That's the only reason why I went with the 7 not the 2.

My amp doesn't have high inputs, so this is why I needed the external LOC.

But I just was under the impression that the Acubass feature on LC7i would solve my problem.

As for the ANC, did you just cut the two wires for the ANC mic in the front? I've looked into it, and most of the information out there is for the 9th gen. Then there is some for the 8th gen, but it's "unplug the connector, you will lose Bluetooth mic, but...."

I only saw once about cutting, or pulling the two for the ANC mic. And I don't remember what color they were.

Do you remember? Or, if you get a chance, could you pop off that panel and take a picture?

Also, do you get a full amount of frequencies at an equal volume? Meaning do you have a good kick (upper end of bass) and good boom (lower end) at the same volume? Even sitting in my driveway, where it sounds best, my kick isn't playing from the sub at all, and the low end is lacking. There is a good "mid-sub" range that's louder than all the rest.

I know I'm asking a lot from a factory head unit, but I mean, it's "Premium", right?

Thanks!

strawsy: I actually tried with the DD1. I must have gotten a dud. While trying to set the max volume on the head unit, by probing the speaker wires, (both sub and each rear speaker), it just never picked up the signal. According to Steve Meade, "not all factory head units put out the 1.5 volts needed for the DD1"....

Then, when trying to set the input levels from the RCA off the Kicker LOC, it did nothing until a point, then all lights on the DD1 came on. So I backed off the levels and the lights stayed on. Then I unplugged the DD1, and they still stayed on. The lights wouldn't turn off until I turned the DD1 off and then back on. Same thing with the amp outputs. I tried doing this over a period of 2 weeks. Changed batteries, tried other things.

I had to send it back.

I'm glad that it did work for you. Did you have any problems like this?

I thought, since I'm running a amp that puts out over 1000 watts, but tuned down to 600, (since I'm running a single S10L7 with an RMS of 600 watts), I know there's no distortion being produced from the amp.

And now since I'm using the LC7i, that "Maximize" light is like having a DD1! That's cool!

Do you have the premium stereo? If so, how did you deal with the ANC? And last, is you bass good, or does it roll off? Or not cover the full sub bass range?

Thanks for all of your replies!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

lower the sub gain even more or lower the LCI7 gain even more. You are WAAAY overgained.

 

[llebcire]

llebcire : I have that problem too with the bass being too boomy (or louder than the mids and highs) at lower volumes. Initially, with the Kicker passive LOC, I tried leaving it that way, then when the volume was lower, bring the SUB down on the head unit. That kind of helped, but it was annoying having to keep adjusting the SUB level all the time. But still, when I get around 25, the sub bass almost disappears. This is why I went with the LC7i (active LOC). Also, down the road, if I want to, I can add more amps and change all speakers. That's the only reason why I went with the 7 not the 2.My amp doesn't have high inputs, so this is why I needed the external LOC.

But I just was under the impression that the Acubass feature on LC7i would solve my problem.

As for the ANC, did you just cut the two wires for the ANC mic in the front? I've looked into it, and most of the information out there is for the 9th gen. Then there is some for the 8th gen, but it's "unplug the connector, you will lose Bluetooth mic, but...."

I only saw once about cutting, or pulling the two for the ANC mic. And I don't remember what color they were.

Do you remember? Or, if you get a chance, could you pop off that panel and take a picture?

Also, do you get a full amount of frequencies at an equal volume? Meaning do you have a good kick (upper end of bass) and good boom (lower end) at the same volume? Even sitting in my driveway, where it sounds best, my kick isn't playing from the sub at all, and the low end is lacking. There is a good "mid-sub" range that's louder than all the rest.

I know I'm asking a lot from a factory head unit, but I mean, it's "Premium", right?

Thanks!

strawsy: I actually tried with the DD1. I must have gotten a dud. While trying to set the max volume on the head unit, by probing the speaker wires, (both sub and each rear speaker), it just never picked up the signal. According to Steve Meade, "not all factory head units put out the 1.5 volts needed for the DD1"....

Then, when trying to set the input levels from the RCA off the Kicker LOC, it did nothing until a point, then all lights on the DD1 came on. So I backed off the levels and the lights stayed on. Then I unplugged the DD1, and they still stayed on. The lights wouldn't turn off until I turned the DD1 off and then back on. Same thing with the amp outputs. I tried doing this over a period of 2 weeks. Changed batteries, tried other things.

I had to send it back.

I'm glad that it did work for you. Did you have any problems like this?

I thought, since I'm running a amp that puts out over 1000 watts, but tuned down to 600, (since I'm running a single S10L7 with an RMS of 600 watts), I know there's no distortion being produced from the amp.

And now since I'm using the LC7i, that "Maximize" light is like having a DD1! That's cool!

Do you have the premium stereo? If so, how did you deal with the ANC? And last, is you bass good, or does it roll off? Or not cover the full sub bass range?

Thanks for all of your replies!

I have solid bass through the range although it stops increasing around 20 and the mids/highs continue. Based on the way the engineers designed the loudness functionality I feel the subs will need to be controlled at lower volumes which is why I'm getting the LCQ-1.

I unplugged the front and rear ANCs and have a wiring diagram for the 2008 Accord which may help - I'll get it up later. I don't have navigation and the 2008 doesn't have Bluetooth without Navi.

-Eric

 

[llebcire]

Sorry for the delay. Here's the wiring for front and rear ANC for the 08-10 Accord - 12 is most likely similar as I don't think the major change was until 2013.

In the image you'll see the wiring is the same color with and without navigation but the front plug is different and you may need to disconnect the correct wires as removing the plug might disconnect the navigation microphone.

-Eric

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[llebcire]

llebcire : I have that problem too with the bass being too boomy (or louder than the mids and highs) at lower volumes. Initially, with the Kicker passive LOC, I tried leaving it that way, then when the volume was lower, bring the SUB down on the head unit. That kind of helped, but it was annoying having to keep adjusting the SUB level all the time. But still, when I get around 25, the sub bass almost disappears. This is why I went with the LC7i (active LOC). Also, down the road, if I want to, I can add more amps and change all speakers. That's the only reason why I went with the 7 not the 2.My amp doesn't have high inputs, so this is why I needed the external LOC.

But I just was under the impression that the Acubass feature on LC7i would solve my problem.

As for the ANC, did you just cut the two wires for the ANC mic in the front? I've looked into it, and most of the information out there is for the 9th gen. Then there is some for the 8th gen, but it's "unplug the connector, you will lose Bluetooth mic, but...."

I only saw once about cutting, or pulling the two for the ANC mic. And I don't remember what color they were.

Do you remember? Or, if you get a chance, could you pop off that panel and take a picture?

Also, do you get a full amount of frequencies at an equal volume? Meaning do you have a good kick (upper end of bass) and good boom (lower end) at the same volume? Even sitting in my driveway, where it sounds best, my kick isn't playing from the sub at all, and the low end is lacking. There is a good "mid-sub" range that's louder than all the rest.

I know I'm asking a lot from a factory head unit, but I mean, it's "Premium", right?

Thanks!

strawsy: I actually tried with the DD1. I must have gotten a dud. While trying to set the max volume on the head unit, by probing the speaker wires, (both sub and each rear speaker), it just never picked up the signal. According to Steve Meade, "not all factory head units put out the 1.5 volts needed for the DD1"....

Then, when trying to set the input levels from the RCA off the Kicker LOC, it did nothing until a point, then all lights on the DD1 came on. So I backed off the levels and the lights stayed on. Then I unplugged the DD1, and they still stayed on. The lights wouldn't turn off until I turned the DD1 off and then back on. Same thing with the amp outputs. I tried doing this over a period of 2 weeks. Changed batteries, tried other things.

I had to send it back.

I'm glad that it did work for you. Did you have any problems like this?

I thought, since I'm running a amp that puts out over 1000 watts, but tuned down to 600, (since I'm running a single S10L7 with an RMS of 600 watts), I know there's no distortion being produced from the amp.

And now since I'm using the LC7i, that "Maximize" light is like having a DD1! That's cool!

Do you have the premium stereo? If so, how did you deal with the ANC? And last, is you bass good, or does it roll off? Or not cover the full sub bass range?

Thanks for all of your replies!

Any updates?

I installed a LCQ-1 this morning and while I need to get it dialed in I didn't lose bass.

I don't know how you addressed the single sub output in your install but I paralleled mine.

-Eric

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Stingerssx 10+ year member]

Well, ok, let's start with I have no idea how to post a picture.....

Usually I don't have this problem in forums, but I guess this forum is special....

Whatever....

What I wanted to post is a picture of my gain setting.

But that's neither here or there.....

Now, THANK YOU so much for the wiring diagram.

I pulled the white wire (ANC) from the front plug, and I unplugged the module under the rear deck.

I still have the same problem.

So I started messing with the levels.

Ok, so here's where it gets weird.

I can turn up the LC7i until the "MAXIMIZE" light comes on, then I try to back it off, and the light won't turn off until the level is turned WAY down. I've tried that MULTIPLE times.

So, if the light comes on at say 95%, it won't go off until under 20%.

I brought the levels to about 94% and left them.

Then I turned up the amp gain to about 50%. The bass is the same, only louder up until 15. Then it still levels off and above 20 starts to go down.

Now, I can turn down the sub on the HU when it's too loud, right?

No, now I can't turn up the sub more than -3 or the bass just distorts.

Well, it doesn't distort, it just seems that the woofer is extending past it's excursion limit.

I currently have the L7 in a .65-.7 cuft sealed enclosure. No poly fil.

Maybe I'll try that. I have the day off tomorrow, so I'll see if I can mess with it a bit.

I'm thinking that I may just be stuck with this since I'm using the factory HU.

 

[llebcire]

Very interesting - where are you as maybe someone from the forum could assist?

Also - where did you get the LC7i? Based on what you're explaining, especially with the maximize light, you may have a defective unit.

Here's my setup and I can get you more details, apologize if I'm repeating and I don't know your installation experience:

2008 Accord EXVL Coupe with 7 speaker premium audio and 5 channel amplifier mounted to the right of the glove box in the dash. Using the factory pin out I tapped into the speaker outputs after the amplifier running 18 gauge from the factory amp to the LCQ-1 in the rear and 12 gauge from the Zapco back to the factory harness. Important to ensure the polarity is correct.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[llebcire]

Here's the pin out I used and as I removed my rear speakers I'm running the fronts into the main input and sub into sub/channel 3.

I disabled summing and auto-mode and don't have AccuBass engaged. Currently gains on amp are all the way down with the levels on the AudioControl at about 80% and levels are just about right for running my HU at 28 (of 40).

Hope this helps!

-Eric

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

In order to post pics on here, a separate web hosting site like photobucket, imgur, etc. has to be used. This site isn't very image uploading friendly....still uses the o/s method.