KX 2500.1 going into protect, after bump

[KickerSoItBump 10+ year member]

Yesterday I was driving home from work when I hit a pot hole, and it jingled me car pretty good. Shortly after, my subs began making faint knocking noises, almost a popping noise.

My KX 2500.1 had been working fine until then, and I only run it at 4 ohms.

So I guess my question is did it knock something loose inside the amp for it to go into protect?

I hooked up my back up amp, a brutus 1205, and it works fine. Checked all my wiring today, it was ok, and then rehooked up the KX, for the same result of a popping/knocking noise.

I'm not the first owner of the amp, since i got it off ebay used, maybe it was it's time, and that bump did it in, but I was wondering if anyone had any input. I really dont want to have to send it in for repair, but if it comes down to that, I suppose I will depending on the price.

Thanks for any help,

Rick

Click to read more...

 

[btdickey99 5,000+ posts]

did you check your grounds?

 

[PsychoTheRapist 5,000+ posts]

Open the amp up and check it out.

 

[KickerSoItBump 10+ year member]

Yeah, i did, their fine. Like I said, right now the brutus is in my car, working flawlessly. That was my first assumption is that the ground got knocked loose somehow. When I went to check it, they were fine, but I even took it off, scraped some more, put it back on, same effect on the KX.

However the brutus is fine w/ it.

 

[KickerSoItBump 10+ year member]

Open the amp up and check it out.

Not to sound like a noob, but are there instructions? I tried earlier, and just couldnt figure out a safe way to get the top off.

 

[thegreatestpenn 5,000+ posts]

do you have a multimeter? if so hook the kicker amp up and make sure you are getting good voltage and that the remote wire isn't pulling too much current.

 

[fwb_1234 10+ year member]

There are probably screws on the back. You are actually taking the back off because the Mosfet's (which are, in turn, soldered to the board) are stuck to the heatsink on the front of the amp.

Check to make sure that the INTERNAL ground has not giggled loose, as it's really the only thing I can think of that isn't soldered in place. It will look like a little wire that comes from the board and attached to the actual amp case.

 

[fwb_1234 10+ year member]

Otherwise look for snapped metal or capacitors with rounded (like exploded) tops as opposed to flat tops. Capacitors are the little cylinders.

 

[KickerSoItBump 10+ year member]

Well I would hope I'm getting good voltage, the meter on my car rarely dips, and I'm running 2batteries all done w/ 0gauge..

I dont have a multimeter lol, but I will look into getting one. Since I've been messing w/ car audio for roughly 2 years, and spending so much, i should just get a decent one.

I will try an take it apart again once I get back from subway lunch. Still kind of nervous to do it, but what the hell, its not working liek it is now.

BTW,

thanks for all the quick replies. mY heart is hurt since my amp broke lol.

 

[fwb_1234 10+ year member]

Parts express has an inexpensive meter.

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

There are probably screws on the back. You are actually taking the back off because the Mosfet's (which are, in turn, soldered to the board) are stuck to the heatsink on the front of the amp.
Check to make sure that the INTERNAL ground has not giggled loose, as it's really the only thing I can think of that isn't soldered in place. It will look like a little wire that comes from the board and attached to the actual amp case.

good call. that'll be lil wire thats screwed down and not soldered. see if that came loose. also go back and ouble check every single wire connection

the top part literally pulls off of the body of the amp. the circuit board is attached the the bottom side of the amp. not the sides where the controls and inputs are, but on the other sides right in the middle where the grey of the top piece meets the black of the bottom piece sticka flathead in there and work the top part up and off. It'll come out with soem force, and will pop back into place very easily.

Otherwise look for snapped metal or capacitors with rounded (like exploded) tops as opposed to flat tops. Capacitors are the little cylinders.

they'll lookl ike a soda can ready to explode from being shaken and left in a hot car all day

Parts express has an inexpensive meter.

trust me, DMM's are excellent investments. even if you dont buy one, fidn someone that has one. measure the AC voltage output with a tone. if its fine then itll be a constant voltage. if you;re still getting the pops you'll see a fluctuation in the voltage.

hopefully you wotn have to send it in to kicker to get refurbished. if you do do that post how muich kicker wants for that....

 

[hemi=22s 10+ year member]

Harborfreight Online Has Good Dmm Usually On Sale For 5-10 Bucks Works Great

 

[KickerSoItBump 10+ year member]

Thank you for all the replies, I will try and open the amp up tommorow, my schedule is kind of hectic.

I really hope I dont need to get it refurbished, but if I do, I will post at least what Kicker says it woud cost.

Thank you for all the advice and replies. I will check into a DMM soon.

 

[Andrew12 10+ year member]

Sell it to me.

 

[KickerSoItBump 10+ year member]

Ok, here I am trying to take this apart now. Once again I'm stuck as to how i can get the top off. There are no more plain visible screws, as I took off the sides. It almost looks like the top slides off, however the gain, frequency, and bass boost knobs are on the top, but not part of it. I want to avoid knocking those out of place when i take it off.

So I was thinking rubber mallet the top off?

Hit the side of the top until it comes off, thats all i can imagine doing at this point.

Does ne one have ne experience taking apart KX amps?