Just Reading around and seen this

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

So i was reading about 2k rms - 3k rms systems. and seen this statement:

""""""Ok, so to produce 3000 watts of constant power you will need 96 amps of current availible extra from your alternator. Lets assume you have a large v-8 car or suv with a 130 amp alternator. Just to run your car and your "amp" you would need a 240 amp alternator"""""""

I dont run 3k rms, but i did run about 24 - 2500rms. The amp was a Sundown saz 2000d. And i did it on 4ga wire & ground, 8ga speaker wire, 1batt underhood, and stock alt. . I have a voltage meter and it never drops below 14v. well the lowest it got was like 13.5v while competing.

So i dont understand the statement abouve

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[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

looks like some BS to me. who says that?

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

some guy talking to someone new about a amp on here. i didn think it sounded right.

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

sounds like his mouth is rather close to his anus //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

I have a 105amp alternator and get voltage drop running 600watts... even at highway speeds on some songs. I'll never figure out how people can run 1500-2000 watts on stock alts smaller than mine and get by with it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

you can't use a general guide like that. I know comp cars stock alt. batteries have a huge effect

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

"""""BASSMEKANIK89"""""

 

[Bumpin' Goalie 10+ year member]

It varies based on the specific situation, parts being used.

However, a rule of thumb seems to be 20-50amps for car's normal usage, then 10 amps per 100 watts of power (or go by amp's internal fuse rating). So...for example, if you had an AQ1200d in a normal vehicle, it'd be ideal to have 120 for the amp + the normal for your car. But also realize in a normal driving/daily surrounding, the amplifier won't be pulling 120 amps as though you were competing/SPL testing.

Notice the word "ideal". Doesn't mean it's always a must. And once you start getting into a bit larger systems, such as 3-5k+, dual alternators enter the scene.

My best advice would be to know how the amperage you actually pull, and make sure it's available.

Best wishes.

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

I was told that you should have 70 amps for every 1kw.

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

i have been playing around on one of the tiburon forums for a while and have seen quite a few people running 2k+ systems. and yes actual 2k amps. and doing it on factory electrical. they claim to not have voltage issues but ive learned not to believe a **** thing i read over there.

personally i would rather play things safe than sorry when it comes to electrical. i just dont like the thought of seeing things i worked hard to get go up in smoke.

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

So i was reading about 2k rms - 3k rms systems. and seen this statement:
""""""Ok, so to produce 3000 watts of constant power you will need 96 amps of current availible extra from your alternator. Lets assume you have a large v-8 car or suv with a 130 amp alternator. Just to run your car and your "amp" you would need a 240 amp alternator"""""""

I dont run 3k rms, but i did run about 24 - 2500rms. The amp was a Sundown saz 2000d. And i did it on 4ga wire & ground, 8ga speaker wire, 1batt underhood, and stock alt. . I have a voltage meter and it never drops below 14v. well the lowest it got was like 13.5v while competing.

So i dont understand the statement abouve

A 3000w amp doesn't constantly pump out 3000w, besides that the math doesn't support those numbers.

Lets say you have the perfect electrical system constantly feeding 14.4v and assuming the amp operates at 100% efficiency ( yeah I know , but the math is easier this way lol )

Power = voltage x current using the 96 amp 14.4v x 96a = 1382.4w

Current = power / Voltage so to make 3000w 3000 / 14.4 = 208.33333333333333a

Not sure where he was going with that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

Here's how it relates in a nutshell....

MUSIC does not play at a constant rate/loudness/volume. There are peaks and valleys in the output (quiet parts). On these valleys, your amp isn't having to work as hard. This is called the "Transitions" and where the "transient response" spec comes into play.

During this down/quiet time, your alternator has a chance to recoup the power lost from your battery(s) (charging batteries when your current demands don't exceed the alternator's output). Grated, you could still play music loud enough to kill your batteries, but most people don't listen for that long at max output. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

If you play a constant test tone, and exceed your alternator's output - eventually your battery(s) will die. There are no down times, no valleys in a test tone. Other than the actual oscillation itself which still exceeds the output.

If you were to have a competition vehicle with 6-12 batteries, and a 100-amp alternator - you could play a test tone for quite a long while, but you would need to let the car run for a long time to recharge the batteries. If you drop them below 12V, they might not charge back up, if you have more than 10 batteries drawing 10A a piece. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Remember, most batteries have at least 500 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) and around 325+ when hot. Larger SUV, Deep cycle and AGM batteries have a lot more than that on tap (800++).

Safe rule of thumb is to have enough power (amperage) on tap so your alternator never has to work hard to recharge the battery(s). The more you tax an alternator, the more load it puts on the engine(drag) and the more likely you are to cause other failures from undervoltage/current.

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

i have been playing around on one of the tiburon forums for a while and have seen quite a few people running 2k+ systems. and yes actual 2k amps. and doing it on factory electrical. they claim to not have voltage issues but ive learned not to believe a **** thing i read over there.
personally i would rather play things safe than sorry when it comes to electrical. i just dont like the thought of seeing things i worked hard to get go up in smoke.

i had a true 2k rms amp. it was test while running in my truck pushing 2300rms. my voltage hardly ever drops below 14v. like i said only when i compete. but believe what you want tho

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

i had a true 2k rms amp. it was test while running in my truck pushing 2300rms. my voltage hardly ever drops below 14v. like i said only when i compete. but believe what you want tho

I still would like to see that. Cause I know that when I compete bassrace at idle I can still stop to low 13s high 12s at full tilt. With a 200a alt and 2 extra batteries. I'm running a little more power than you but I also have more power to push it too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I used a DC PAI2000D (same board as sundown 2K) last year and with HO alternator and one extra deep cycle I could drop that below 12V on 30 second competition runs. I clamped it at a hair over 3KW at .5 ohm nominal and I know it drew around 250A. You must be running it into a very high impedence if you're not dropping voltage heavily.